I installed stud mounted rockers (was the first time for me) and have did it a few times and everytime I did them correctly because the car runs just fine on my daily driver. I used the intstructions from flowtech induction's website:
“1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.
Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.”
40psi with the vaccum line off and disconnected.
On my car the difference between the vaccum line off and on is about 5psi and when you plug the line with your finger when setting the fuel pressure it is a 1psi difference as opposed to leaving it to open air. Just a "notice" by me...So I bet your fuel pressure isn't the problem.
I would get a timing light and verify the timing. Make some marks with White-Out on your balancer at 10* BTDC (I believe) and that is where you want the pointer at when at idle. Make sure you take out the spout connector to ensure that the timing doesn't advance with revs.
Good Luck
Oh I have had trouble with leaks here and there and adjusting this and that and when your in a crunch (since this is my only car) it will stress you out...
With his 24lb injectors I would set it around 39psi or maybe bump it up to the lower 40's (42psi) as I have seen some 24lber guys do to make a good a/f ratio...but with your particular combo 39psi should be what you need.
