is it really this slow?

Car running with the vacuum line disconnected. Might want to cap off the line, but no vac to the regulator while adjusting. Set to 38-40. Generally, the computer will adjust to get the fuel ratio right but if there isn't enough pressure there will be low flow, which the computer can't fix if it's out of the limits.

this is the correct way to do it, capping the line isnt neccessary but wont hurt. just to clarify i wasnt trying to be a dck before, just would hate to see you hurt the motor for a dumb reason. At first when your wrenching on the car it seems pretty intimidating if your not familiar with it, but these cars are pretty simple, and generally not too fussy once they are running good. Just a handful of sensors and fuel pressure and timing to worry about. Also the fuel filter is important especially with the inconsistencies of pump gas. If thats gummed up forget about it
 
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Ok time to update. My step-dad and I changed the fuel filter which was clogged and we adjusted the fuel regulator. The car now idles at 39psi and when given throttle goes to 41psi. Took the car for a drive and now have amazing throttle response. I am assuming because of the stock gears it is a tad slow to 2500rpm's but once it is there it takes off like never before and has constant pull all the way through the gears. Thank you everyone for the advice, on friday I will take it back to the track and see what she does:nice:
 
I ordered a stock shifter off of ebay and it should be hear middle around friday. The transmission is doing better since we adjusted the fuel pressure. Not sure if that is why but it downshifts better and holds the gears longer.


Going to 3.55 gears will get the car into the powerband quicker right:shrug: I drive the car an hour to my girlfriends house so I don't want to go any shorter
 
no offense man but I feel you should have had a better understanding of engines in general as well as mechanical know-how before buying that car. I see too many people buying these tricked out engines and have no clue what to do with them or how to fix them. Looks like a clean setup though.....hope he didn't bs you. It'd be in your best interest to read up..:nice:

Drew
 
It sounds to me like everybody here is against me having this car just because I am new to working on them. I came to this site looking for advice and tips and it seems lately like I am not welcome here. I thought I made a good decision trading to get the mustang but i guess I should have stayed with the ricer civic.
 
maybe you should have.....:rolleyes:

nobody has told you NOT to have the car, I am just personally surprised why you chose to jump in so deep without learning to somewhat swim first, ya know? Don't get all butt hurt about it man, maybe the 331 is just too much for ya since you're use to cruising around with coke bottle sized displacement..:stick:

Just teasin ya...

Drew
 
I traded because at the time it seemed like the deal of a lifetime. Im not as bad off as you think, my stepdad is helping me with the car. He was an ase certified mechanic back in the day and had a few hot rods himself. I am trying the best I can and am trying to learn. The 331 was alot to handle at first but I am getting the hang of it. Was quite a jump from 100hp to possibly over 300:nice:

Im not upset drew just a little stressed. I have never been happier driving a mustang
 
I definitely understand why you're stressed and if I lived within 20 miles of you I would have sorted all this **** out with your car. It's always good to have someone by your side (stepdad) who has experience with this kind of stuff. I think people are prob giving you a hard time because a lot of things you are asking are common knowledge within the 5.0 community and people learn them by searching and doing research on their own. Years ago I was slammed for asking basic stuff also, I just use the search button now and if the answer isn't there then i'll post it up. I've been cruisin this site for years and it seems like the members on here don't always give the correct information and I've seen it get steadily worse...... he said/she said kinda thing.

Good luck with your build and feel free to pm me if you have any q's....I'd be glad to help you out!

Drew
 
Thanks for posting your time slip up.


The 2.333 60ft is an obvious indication as to how soft the car is leaving the line.

25-2700 stall will suit you just fine.

Do not race in OD in an AOD car; get your business down by the end of third.

Do not MANUALLY DOWNSHIFT an AOD car

Do not pull the shifter back into first to hold second gear out longer.

The TV cable under the t-bod should just about be tight to the linkage it mounts to if you slightly pull the cable.

The cyl heads that you have could be someone's home-porting-job and is now causing your car to be lazy. The E-cam was at least hopefully installed straight up, but probably wasn't degreed.

3.73 bare minimum rear gear needs to be used in your car. Motorsport gears are the way to go.

As someone else mentioned, get your air source from the inner fenderwell, not from under the hood.

Are you still running the stock h-pipe?

Long tubes help big time with low-end grunt, but I believe you will have to run Hooker headers with the AOD.

Hook up your EGR coolant lines...people have a hard time understanding that 180-195 degree coolant is beneficial to help extract the up to 2500 hundred degree exhaust gasses running through the EGR with no other means to extract the heat other than by ambient inside and outside air. I somehow doubt that you would have non-EGR race heads on that car.


You made a fine choice for an automobile and the only stupid question is the question that isn't asked.
 
no offense man but I feel you should have had a better understanding of engines in general as well as mechanical know-how before buying that car. I see too many people buying these tricked out engines and have no clue what to do with them or how to fix them. Looks like a clean setup though.....hope he didn't bs you. It'd be in your best interest to read up..:nice:

Drew

He didnt but the car, he traded it for a riced out civic, and who's to say he dosent deserve the car... at one point everyone is a beginner. he dosent have some 1000hp turbo car, its a H/C/I 331 we are talking about, the same problems apply with this motor as a bolt on 302

Dont get discouraged, you save an assload of money by trading that car, it has good parts in it and the prevous owner obviously was the one that didnt deserve the car cause he did have the sense to change the fuel filter. I would say dont go with 3.55 gears, go at least 3.73's with the AOD. FYI with whatever gear, the motors not gonna do squat below 2500 rpms

Also what gears are in the car now?
 
maybe you should have.....:rolleyes:

nobody has told you NOT to have the car, I am just personally surprised why you chose to jump in so deep without learning to somewhat swim first, ya know? Don't get all butt hurt about it man, maybe the 331 is just too much for ya since you're use to cruising around with coke bottle sized displacement..:stick:

Just teasin ya...

Drew
i think that car modded slightly or not is near the shallow end and easier to work on than a 4.6 mustang or other computer controlled newer car. yes this is computer too but easy to understand. stick with it and it can teach you quite a bit and be fun.
 
""He didnt but the car, he traded it for a riced out civic, and who's to say he dosent deserve the car... at one point everyone is a beginner. he dosent have some 1000hp turbo car, its a H/C/I 331 we are talking about, the same problems apply with this motor as a bolt on 302""

I never said he didn't deserve the car just that he had no clue what the hell he was doing. A h/c/i 331 is a step above a bolt on 302, you can't compare the too especially since he has NO clue of if it's even a 331 stroker to begin with. There's no guarantee that the bottom end is even jake, hell he may have that thing apart within the month because it'll start eating bearings. Like I said, can't compare the two and it would have been a smart idea to have more knowledge under his belt, or money maybe? :shrug:

""i think that car modded slightly or not is near the shallow end and easier to work on than a 4.6 mustang or other computer controlled newer car. yes this is computer too but easy to understand. stick with it and it can teach you quite a bit and be fun.""

No. 4.6's aren't bad to work on whatsoever and the same diagnostic principals apply to obd2 as obd1. In fact, I think diagnosis is the same if not easier on obd2 cars....
 
I never said he didn't deserve the car just that he had no clue what the hell he was doing. A h/c/i 331 is a step above a bolt on 302, you can't compare the too especially since he has NO clue of if it's even a 331 stroker to begin with. There's no guarantee that the bottom end is even jake, hell he may have that thing apart within the month because it'll start eating bearings. Like I said, can't compare the two and it would have been a smart idea to have more knowledge under his belt, or money maybe? :shrug:

that argument about bearings could be used for any motor when buying a used car, all im saying is, theres no more maintenence with that 331 then there is with any other motor. I havent done any out of the ordinary maintnence to my motor since ive put it in my car. Just cause its a stroker dosent mean squat really.
 
ehhh, yes and no. Aftermarket guts, heads, cam, etc leave ALOT of variables that need to be correctly calculated or engine failure will occur. If it was a stock setup that need to be peeled apart for failure it's a lot more straightforward and cheaper to fix imo. Strokers are nice but I'd bet your "well maintained" setup will peter out long before "well maintained" stock guts would. That's my opinion though....
 
Went back to the track tonight and the results weren't much better. The car still struggles until 2500 and then takes off. But when it gets to third gear it wont accelerate anymore and the rps stay at 3500. Second gear pulls as hard as first but third seems like it falls on it's face.

60ft 2.3897
330ft 6.7400
1/8et 10.0682
1/8mph 74.28
1/4et 15.2661
1/4mph 92.10

On the first run of the night my et was 15.3732 and the mph was 95.95

After my burnout the rpms dropped almost to 0 and it sounded like the car stalled and then fired back up. And lately when putting the car in gear it stalls every once in a while. I am confused
 
tonight was the last time i am racing until the spring. I have thought about getting it tuned but it takes a while to save up for a tune when you only make 200 dollars a week. I was quoted 500 dollars for a custom tune. what is all involved in a tune?