Okay, I need some help and advice. I'm getting ready to lower my '06 Mustang GT. I bought a set of Steeda Ultralights, but since I bought them I've heard that you shouldn't lower these S197's without also installing an adjustable panhard bar and possibly a set of caster/camber plates. First of all, is this true? And if it is, are there other parts I should install along with it? I have already had welded in the Steeda 3-point frame rails and I have the Steeda strut tower brace installed. I use this car as my daily driver and have not taken it to the track and probably won't. Other mods I've made are the Steeda underdrive pulleys, C&L CAI and SCT XCAL 2 tuner with tunes from Brenspeed. I also installed the sequential rear turn signals from Web Electric. I would appreciate any and all advice you guys can give me on this. I want this car to handle a lot better than stock, but I don't want it to ride like a buckboard in the process. Thanks for any help you can give.
you don't have to have the adj panhard bar, or caster camber plates. we used the FRPP "K" springs on ours with no other parts, and it is fine. aligned back to spec and everything...some cars are different, but definitely have it aligned once it's all done...
+1 on the K-Springs which provide a 1.5” drop on all corners. The rear end is still squared under the car no adjustable pan-hard bar needed and the alignment was brought back into spec without the camber bolts. Anymore of a drop and you may need some if not all of these extra parts.
I have the Eibach Sportlines(prtotypes) which lowers 2"+ and it was aligned fine without the CC plates and panhard bar
If you lower more than 1.5" in the back you will need a Adj Panhard bar. Even 1.5" starts to slide the rear end to one side. I've too many new lowered Stangs driving around without them and can tell instantly when driving behind them. Has nothing to do with 4-wheel alignment but everything to do with chassis alignment over the rear axle. If you want your car to be sitting more over on the passengers side tires and thus exposing more tire on the drivers side out back, then by all means pass on the PB. On mine I went with a 1.7" drop in the back and had to adjust the PB almost a full 1/4" to get the rear squared back over the axle. So that the wheels/tires were centered in the back with the fenders, etc. As for needing CCPlates or camber bolts....any shop saying they didn't need extra bits from you to align the fronts back to stock specs with a two inch drop lied to you or isn't that great of a shop. Even with camber bolts and a 1.5" drop up front most cars will be .1 off. But a little spread is nice for handling even with the added tire wear.
I've got the Ultra-Lites on mine and I love them. I can't tell the difference in the ride but handling definitely improved, and w/ only an inch drop in the front my splitter will clear all but the tallest curbs.
I used the panhard bar on mine. I set it dead on with the stock bar and ended up not needed to adjust it any once the car was on the ground. I also bought the camber bolts which were not needed to get my car back to spec. Wanna buy em?
I'll call Eibach and tell them that since they made me the springs and installed them. Should I refer them to you or ??????
chubhunter has the FRPP springs. we measured his car to see if an adjustable panhard was needed. to my suprise, the rear was still centered under the car. i did not get an accurate measurement when i did my panhard bar, i just put it on and measured as i adjusted it. i cant say if it was needed for sure or not. but, the aluminum panhard i have is much lighter than the stocker, so thats an added bonus.
Thanks, guys, for all the replies. I appreciate the help. It looks like I'll just have the springs installed and we'll see what happens, but I think they only lower the back by 1.5" at the most, so I don't think I'll need the adj. PB. Thanks, again for all the help and advice.
Friend of mine dropped his with the sportlines from Eibach and bought an Adj. Panhard Bar and when the shop looked at it, his car was only off by less than an 1/8" to the passenger side. Not even noticeable and almost a waste of time to fix it. Buy the springs first, see if your car needs the Adj. Panhard Bar and then buy it only if you need it. Otherwise, save your money.
I have installed two sets of Steeda sports and the adjustable panhard bar was not needed. They lowered the rear right at 1.5" and kicked the rear over around an 1/8 of an inch which was not noticeable when standing behind it
