Need advice, soon to be installing AFR 165's

criticman

Member
Sep 7, 2003
723
1
16
Rome, GA
Alright, I just bought a used, low mile set of AFR 165's with 1.6 rr's. Based on my present setup (see sig. or my website), what else do I need to worry about?

I am pretty sure my stock valve covers will work if I modify the baffle in the passenger side one (right?).

Will the stock pushrods be fine, or do I need to step up to hardened ones (or do the AFR's require different sizes than stock)?

Felpro gaskets good enough, or do I need to spend the $80 or so for Cometic?

While I am at it, I was thinking about picking up a used cam. Any suggestions for these heads? I am considering having the Cobra intake port matched to the AFR's. Worth the expense?

I know that is a lot of questions, but figured I would lump it all in one post to save space. Thanks in advance for your input.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I'd be willing to bet you will need to buy a pushrod length checker. They are different heads so the length usually is never the same. A cam will almost be a must with those heads depending if you want the max potential out of it. Getting things port matched is a very good idea to maximize flow. Also if this thing isn't going to see high compression or boost/n20 then a cometic head gasket won't be neccesary unless you want the best and have a reusable head gasket.
 
Here's another specific question with this upgrade: do I need to go ahead and dump the dinky 19# injectors for 24#ers? Or would simply stepping up to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator take care of any issues the extra air flow will present?
 
You'll need hardened pushrods, since FORD has the deck heights all over the place you really need to measure with a checking rod. You should be fine with a Fel-Pro 1011-1 gasket, I'd also opt for some ARP bolts of studs.

Depending on your brand of rocker you may need to clearance more. The springs only have 120# at the seat so you need to stay mild on the cam, port matching will not gain you much. However you can pick up major gains by working the GT40 lower. I'd also suggest a 24# inj, 80mm MAF.
 
24# injector w/calibrated MAFS to match at least 75mm, Get a pushrod length checker, you'll be happy you did, it's the only way if you want to do it right. Don't waste your money on port matching the intake not worth the so called 5-15 hp gain if that. Be carfull with the stock valve covers might not work. Stay mild with the cam:
E- cam would work good.
 
Well, I have the 76mm MAF already...not quite 80mm as Rick mentions, but a lot bigger than stock. That is followed by a 76mm inlet pipe to the 70 Accufab TB, which matches the opening on the Cobra upper.

The 1.6 roller rockers are apparently Ford Racing (according to the guy bought the setup from). Should this be of concern with the stock valve covers?

The exact model # on these heads is AFR 1400, meaning they are the emissions legal 165cc Street Heads, Stud, 61cc

And yes, I did some reading on the heads and I agree with the cam staying mild because of the springs. I think I may keep it stock for right now. Seen a lot of people say they have been pleased with the street power the stock cam makes with a blower...which may be my next mod.

Rick: You mentioned port matching was not worth it but said working the GT-40 lower would bring big gains. What kind of work should be done on it? BTW, I am liking your new website a lot more.
 
I agree with Rick. "port matching" means different things to different people. A properly ported GT40 lower intake is worth ~15HP on those heads with the right supporting combo including a stock - mild cam installed correctly.
 
criticman said:
Well, I have the 76mm MAF already...not quite 80mm as Rick mentions...


Rick: You mentioned port matching was not worth it but said working the GT-40 lower would bring big gains. What kind of work should be done on it? BTW, I am liking your new website a lot more.


The 76mm will be fine, I had decent success with one on my old NA combo. The Gt-40 needs some runner work to straighten the ports and open them up. I am sure Tom "TMOSS" could help you if your interested he does some nice work. Other wise I can give you a few names and contact info...

I was sick as a dog for 2 weeks so I did some work on the site, and that is how it ended. I agree 110% better then the old one.
 
Yeah, I know TMOSS does good work - I had talked to him before and have sent him a message on his site about doing some work on that GT40 lower.

Now as for this pushrod length checker/checking rod...where would I find one? And so I have to take the engine apart, mount the heads before I can buy the proper pushrods (i.e., mounted to check for length)? Or is there another method so I can have everything ready to go all at once to make the install quicker?

BTW Rick - Although I am liking the site, if you ever need some design or programming work down the line, you have my contact info.
 
No problem Tom, I have put a few of your manifolds on for local guys who have purchased them;) I like Go Daddy so far no issues...


criticman- No problem, I will definitely keep you in mind I would still consider that deal when your ready. Yes you install the heads then mock up one rocker assembly and check the length. If you like Summit you need PT# TFS-9000 $11.95 http://store.summitracing.com/defau...eywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp
 
Rick - Thanks, I will be in touch about that deal. And yes, I like Summit so I will order that part from them. I am very happy they have the new warehouse going live here in GA.

TMOSS - Thanks. Are the adjustables strong enough to hold up to wear and tear?
 
You only use the adj pushrod to check it, then measure what you have and order the correct size. I find the 1pc chrome moly TFS pushrods to be very nice.

Smith Broths offer some very nice pushrods... :nice: They do a lot of custom stuff.