PCV/catch can idea & ?

I was thinking about a catch can for my PCV. Would it be possible to run a house from the bottom of the catch can to the front drain plug on the oil pan or would that cause an aeration problem? I was thinking about doing the same for my oil return pump for the turbo. It is routed to the oil filler neck curently but, again, I didn’t know if this might cause a problem. Any thoughts?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


A couple of thoughts:


How will it force oil into the crankcase? I'm assuming you'd manually open the valve when the car is off to do the draining. Otherwise you have a vacuum in the can pulling oil out of the crankcase.
 
The idea was to run a hose from the back of each VC to the catch can. There wouldnt be a hose conected to the intake so I shouldn't have a vac pulling oil out of the pan. As for forcing oil into the crank case. the oil pump for the turbo oil return would be doing that. Right now its hooked to the port on the filler neck. Im having a small issue with oil seeping out from under the filler cap so I would like to move it to the pan & put a small filter on the filler neck port.
 
Yes. the turbo is mounted where the back seat was so I have to use the return pump.

:doh: I didn't reconize the screen name.

I use breather tanks on a lot of poweradder cars I built. I run a -10an line off each cover to a T-fitting, them over to the catch can. They do require a little draining here and there so I run a rubber hose out where the fluid can be easily drained and caught into a pan or empty bottle. I would not return that fluid back to the pan.

You could return the oil from the turbo to the oil pan similar to the way a Vortech does by keeping the hose above the oil level in the pan.
 
Ok, so you wouldnt want to put the oil back in the engine after its been drained from the catch can. Why? Im sure you have a good reason and a lot more experience than me. I was just wanting to know why. The oil return pump going to the pan above the oil level is brobably the only way to do it right I guess. It would have been a lot easier to pull the drain plug & tap it than to remove the oil pan so I didnt get shavings in the oil. Thanks for the tips on what size fittings to use. Maybe when I do the DART block I can tap into the pan before the install. As for now, I will stick with what I'm doing and find a away to seal it up better. Thanks again.
 
You gather a lot of moisture and condensation in the breather tanks as well ;) you dont want that back into your motor. With a Vortech you use a punch and slowly beat a hole in the pan which folds over the metal to give you some thread area, then use a 3/8NPT tap and put a bung in the pan, pack the flutes full of a grease so as you tap you catch the shavings....

I weld bungs in the pans....I hate the method listed above but I have done it many times with no issues, tip is TAKE YOUR TIME, then drain the oil to get any shavings out that may hve dropped in, magnetic drain plugs help also.

Heres a link to the Vortech directions, page 14
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/download.php?dir=pdf/manuals&file=4FA020-010v4.1.pdf
 
Thanks for the explanation & the link. I like the idea of welding on a bung. I went the cheap way to do that for my meth nozzle & ACT sensor. I had a scrap piece of ¼” steel plate. I drilled & pipe thread tapped the holes. Then I cut a square around the tapped hole & welded them to the tubing after I had drilled holes in it too.