Problems with Lighting, Illumination, Parking Lamps #4 Fuse

savegoodautonfg

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May 11, 2005
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Everything that #4 fuse operates don't work all of a sudden. The headlights turn on and stay on without a problem. The #4 fuse was'nt blown at all. I tried another fuse just in case and it did'nt blow.

The weird thing is i have had an alarm for about 6 months now and when i unlock the car the dash lights light up and so do all the lamps outside the car (Parking, Sidemarkers and so on).

Any ideas guys?
 
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Look for a bad headlight switch or wiring from the headlight switch to the wiring distribution (a brown wire under the dash). The switch is most likely IMHO, and is easily tested.

Good luck.
 
Well this is what i got the problem down to, it will come on sometimes if it wants but usually it stays off, i just was playing with the switch and when you hit the headlight switch one time it makes the first click and the illumination and all come on, in between the clicks the illumination will stay on if you hold the switch at a certian point. I see that the gray connector that goes into the switch is brownish like it was burnt?

The headlights works fine tho all the time, its just the illumination, etc...
 
So with parking lights on, the gauge illumination is ok, but when you transition from parking lights to the headlight position, everything works but you have to jiggle the switch just right to make the illumination lighting stay lit?

It still sounds like it could be a headlight switch issue to me, especially if you have the headlight switch pulled out but connected, and you put a test light on the illunimation terminal and the test light acts in concert with your actual instrument illumination. Let's see what others think about it.

Good luck Nick.
 
especially if you have the headlight switch pulled out but connected, and you put a test light on the illunimation terminal and the test light acts in concert with your actual instrument illumination.

I don't understand really, plus which one is the illumination terminal.
what does this mean?


Hey hissin, you remembered my name!!
 
Some people's names just stick with me. It seems like we've chatted a good bit.

Now I'm trying to remember the dimmer wire color - I think it's Red/brn (someone can hopefully correct this if it's wrong). What I normally do (because it's easier and quicker) is just grab a test light and probe the likely terminals in the switch. When you find one that comes on with the parking lights, turn the dimmer up and down and see if your test light gets brighter and dimmer. If you found the right wire, it will.

Now you can play with the switch in the car or remove it and do continuity testing on your bench (continuity checks would be to the parking light terminal, which uses a brown wire). You might see that you have some kind of 'dead spot' in your switch - I've run across it a time or two myself. If this is so, the best thing to do is replace the switch and see if it fixes it. The switches are not real expensive (not last time I checked a few years ago, anyhow). There are other ways to rewire it but that's not a great way to fix things. I used to do it on old Euro cars because switchgear seemed to be near obsolete or priced like it was, but I never liked it.

If you don't know, you can pop your headlight switch out with a small screwdriver (like a jeweler's screwdriver) - it makes testing a quicker proposition.

Good luck bud.
 
Some people's names just stick with me. It seems like we've chatted a good bit.

Now I'm trying to remember the dimmer wire color - I think it's Red/brn (someone can hopefully correct this if it's wrong). What I normally do (because it's easier and quicker) is just grab a test light and probe the likely terminals in the switch. When you find one that comes on with the parking lights, turn the dimmer up and down and see if your test light gets brighter and dimmer. If you found the right wire, it will.

Now you can play with the switch in the car or remove it and do continuity testing on your bench (continuity checks would be to the parking light terminal, which uses a brown wire). You might see that you have some kind of 'dead spot' in your switch - I've run across it a time or two myself. If this is so, the best thing to do is replace the switch and see if it fixes it. The switches are not real expensive (not last time I checked a few years ago, anyhow). There are other ways to rewire it but that's not a great way to fix things. I used to do it on old Euro cars because switchgear seemed to be near obsolete or priced like it was, but I never liked it.

If you don't know, you can pop your headlight switch out with a small screwdriver (like a jeweler's screwdriver) - it makes testing a quicker proposition.

Good luck bud.

I'm gonna get in there today and take some pics and see whats up.

I'll post around 5-6pm EST.

Thanks hissin..
 
tHIS morning before work i took out switch and pulled the connector out and stuck it back in the switch then put the switch back in the cluster and it works perfect like usual. no more problems.

why would this be?
 
tHIS morning before work i took out switch and pulled the connector out and stuck it back in the switch then put the switch back in the cluster and it works perfect like usual. no more problems.

why would this be?

I would suspect that you either had a slightly bad/resistive connection or that the switch is still on the outs and man-handling it changed how it works. Sometimes the old switches housings warp slightly, which means that the internals get just a little out of whack because of the deformation. Simply unplugging the switch and opening and closing it a few times will change how it works. Often times it goes back to how it was operating before though.
 
Ok, well it started again a little while ago. if i hit the headlight switch to the first click it doesnt work. if i move the switch slow into the 2nd click (headlights) right before it clicks into the 2nd click (headlights) it will work and if i hold it in that spot it will work but when i let go and let it go into the 2nd click again (headlights) the illumination and such stop working.

any ideas?

that connector on the back of the switch is brown/burnt/melting?

how do you get the wires out of the back of the connector without cutting them to put them in the new connector?
 
Ok, well it started again a little while ago. if i hit the headlight switch to the first click it doesnt work. if i move the switch slow into the 2nd click (headlights) right before it clicks into the 2nd click (headlights) it will work and if i hold it in that spot it will work but when i let go and let it go into the 2nd click again (headlights) the illumination and such stop working.

any ideas?

that connector on the back of the switch is brown/burnt/melting?

how do you get the wires out of the back of the connector without cutting them to put them in the new connector?

They sell special tools for doing this but I use my set of jewelers screwdrivers, a small pair of needlenose pliers and an awl for this kind of work. Worst case you can get new terminals from the parts store, FFI, etc. I've had to do this myself. I'm not super impressed with some of the wiring pin retention in some of the connectors on these cars.

Good luck.
 
Hey iv been having the same problem and tehn my tranny blew on ym car so i didnt really have tiem to check it out untill last night ... i have read that if you move the dimmer back and fourth you might find a spot that lights the dash lights and i did it and it worked but the dome light stayed on all the time so i just tok it out untill i can fix this problem corectlly also when the lights are on you know how the hazard switch will light green are the other lights suposed to do the same?
and anyone else have a problem with like an amber glow over your mileage?
 
Red88: the hazard flasher does light green when the parking lights or headlights are on. Mine stopped lighting one day, probably been out for weeks before I even noticed it. There are two bulbs in the back. The one behind the flasher had fallen out and got lost. I got one out of the jy, they do not sell the bulb base anymore or the switch for defroster/hazard lights anymore either.
february024.jpg

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View attachment 389585
 
ya i wasnt sure if the other side lights gren also cause mine dont. and i always wanted to know what was suposed to be under the hazard ha thanks i really need a rear defog but i wont talk about that in a light thread ha
 
They sell special tools for doing this but I use my set of jewelers screwdrivers, a small pair of needlenose pliers and an awl for this kind of work. Worst case you can get new terminals from the parts store, FFI, etc. I've had to do this myself. I'm not super impressed with some of the wiring pin retention in some of the connectors on these cars.

Good luck.

Hissin ok, i got those tools now how do i do it tho, like what do i do with the tools to try to get the wires out of the gray connector?
 
Nick, first off, mark and/or take pics of how it is now. I make a diagram of the connector with all the wires labeled.

I use the jewelers screwdriver to push the retention pin on the terminals. If you slide the screwdriver down beside the terminal you will feel when you hit the pin. Once you push the pin back, you can pull the wire out. It's just a feel thing. Jrichker might have more precise info for you - I don't pay much attention when I do it.

Good luck.
 
The secret is: LOOK, LIFT and PULL... in that order...

Ford weatherproof electrical connectors like the ones on the computer system usually have an insert that is removed from the front side. The plastic spring finger is also accessed from the front of the connector. Once the insert is pried out from the front, you lift the plastic spring finger that lock the contact in place. Then you can pull the wire out from the rear. This is typical of all plastic connector shells with metal contact pins that crimp on the wires.
 
The secret is: LOOK, LIFT and PULL... in that order...

Ford weatherproof electrical connectors like the ones on the computer system usually have an insert that is removed from the front side. The plastic spring finger is also accessed from the front of the connector. Once the insert is pried out from the front, you lift the plastic spring finger that lock the contact in place. Then you can pull the wire out from the rear. This is typical of all plastic connector shells with metal contact pins that crimp on the wires.

The whole silver/metal thing will come out to put it in the new connector ill buy from 50resto or where can i buy it from?