Build Thread "Rising from Ashes" 94 Cobra build thread
- Thread starter 95steedamustang
- Start date
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I' m working toward paint.
Started mocking up doors and fenders and setting gaps. This is a tedious process and can take a couple of days or a couple of hours. This one actually went pretty well.
Started with new Ford hinges, then I coated them with metal etching primer.
Passenger side went good. Still need to tweak in places but that will wait until the hood is on.
Driver side needed some cussing but got there eventually.
Hinges are on the body for good....doors will come back off for paint.
BANGERSTANGER76
Member
Can you explain what would make the door be off like that driver side?
If the hinge is in place what would cause that gap.
Banger
If the hinge is in place what would cause that gap.
Banger
Unlike a lot of newer cars, these have a ton of adjustment on the hinges. You have 1-2 inches of adjustment at the door posts and the same at the actual doors where the hinges bolt to. Passenger side...got lucky, driver side...took adjusting 15 times to get it right. Should be bolting on the hood and header panel and setting final gaps before paint-soon
Some progress...
Got my cooling setup ready
Got the hood back on and all the gaps pretty well set. So now the final blocking and body work can be completed. This car already lines up better than my old one.
Got my cooling setup ready
Got the hood back on and all the gaps pretty well set. So now the final blocking and body work can be completed. This car already lines up better than my old one.
BANGERSTANGER76
Member
I didn't know they made a 3 row aluminum radiator. All the ones I've seen were two 1" rows.
Kurt
Kurt
Griffin will build you a custom 3 or 4 row radiator. Although they don't recommend the 4 row for street use because of air restriction.
Or if your more budget friendly
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mishimoto-P...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b4a0f655
Although I'm not sure the specs or durability of that one.
I can set the engine back 1 inch with the MM K member and still clear the blower pulley if I run into a space problem.
That's cool. I've actually had a Steeda 2 core for about 10 years that still works great. I have heard nothing but horror stories with that Mishimoto. There's at least 10 guys here who have had multiple cracked Mishimoto radiators. I can set my engine back an 1" with the QA1 K-member, but it means getting a custom oil pan, and I can't be bothered.
Kurt
Kurt
Come on...Its just a little cutting and welding.
I pulled my old Griffin radiator out of the car that burned just to see if it was toast and it actually pressure tested to have no leaks. I don't think a Mishimoto would be able hold up as well.
It means cutting and welding my driveshaft again though. I'm sure it's fine where it is. I'm sure I could cut and weld the oil pan myself if I put my mind to it.
Kurt
AZmustang98
Member
Mishimotos use epoxy to hold them together...My dad bought a Mishimoto and it started leaking within 2 months.
I hear the Fluidynes don't last either. If it makes you feel any better about how you spent your money.
Kurt
Kurt
That's the funny thing. Be Cool has been around forever, but I can't find anyone who has personal experience with them. My Steeda radiator was made by C&R, and I could definately recommend this particular one. However, Steeda doesn't use C&R anymore, and I can't attest to the quality of their new supplier.
Kurt
Kurt
Yeah, it's truly a travesty that Steeda stopped using C&R. I got mine on sale for $376. I've never heard anything bad about the Summit or Jeg's brand radiators either. I already had rigged a foxbody 3 core into my car once before, and I wanted a direct fit piece the second time around.
Kurt
