S197 Line Lock Installation Write-Up

[DarkFireGT]

For the full version, with high-res pics, visit StangNet main:
http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Ford-Mustang-PMP-Line-Lock-Kit-Install-080225.html

There's quite a bit that you have to purchase to make this kit work. There are complete kits out there, but the only other dual solenoid kit that I'm aware of is made by GMS, and I refuse to purchase anything from them. I don't trust a single solenoid kit with having ABS. So this is the best choice available right now. When all is done, though, the kit works great. The pieces they DO give you are great quality.

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<p align="center"><font face="Arial" size="4"><b>S197 PMP Line Lock Kit Installation</b></font></p>
<p align="center">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3269/2292112579_4797cbdbaf.jpg" width="400" height="300"></p>

Kit Includes:

• 2 braided lines with straight connects
• 2 braided lines with staight & 90 degree connects
• 2 master cylinder line adapters
• 2 caliper line adapters
• 4 solenoid adapters

Tools Needed:

• Power Drill (With ¼” drive socket adapter)
• 13/16 Socket (for wheel removal)
• ½ Drive Breaker Bar / ½ Drive Extensions (for wheel removal)
• ½ Drive Torque Wrench (for wheel installation)
• ¼ Drive Extensions
• ¼ Drive Ratchet
• ½” Drill bit
• 5/16, 10mm ¼” Drive Socket
• 10mm, 11mm, 13mm, 17mm open end wrenches (line wrenches if available)
• 2x 7/16 open-end wrenches
• 1/2, 11/16 open-end wrenches
• Phillips head screw driver
• Body pin removal tool
• Crimping Pliers (Can use regular pliers, but crimping pliers are recommended.)
• Soldering Iron/solder/heat shrink tubing (Optional)

Materials Needed:

• 2 Stage Control Solenoids (I used Jegs Part No. 555-63000)
• 18 or 16 gauge primary wire (Several colors if possible/preferred)
• Brake fluid
• Momentary or rocker switch (depending on preference)
• (3) Butt connectors (if not using solder)
• (3) Ring terminals
• 18 or 16 gauge crimp-on disconnects
• Add-A-Fuse (mini)
• Self-tapping sheet metal screws
• Zip ties
• Teflon tape or paste

<p ALIGN="LEFT" style="margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0">
<font face="Arial" size="2">Installation times will vary depending on switch
mounting location and previous experience.&nbsp; Expect 2-4 hours for
installation.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="LEFT"><b><font face="Arial">Installation:</font></b></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 1:&nbsp;&nbsp; Cut off 1/2 to 2/3 of one
of the wires and install a ring terminal on each solenoid.&nbsp; Your ground
will be right there, so not much wire is needed.&nbsp; It does not matter which
wire that you choose.&nbsp; I chose the left wire on one, and the right wire on
the other, so that I could best route the wire.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2029/2292112627_4cd0895ee6.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left">&nbsp;</p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 2:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Install solenoid
adapters into both of the solenoids.&nbsp; Use teflon tape or paste on the
fittings that are going into the solenoids.&nbsp; This is the only time you will
use the teflon.&nbsp; Use a 7/16&quot; open-end wrench to tighten.&nbsp; Do not
overtighten, but make sure you get a good seal.&nbsp; Use an 11/16&quot; open-end
wrench to hold the solenoid in place.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3104/2292898350_24430400b6.jpg" width="400" height="300"><img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2148/2292111725_4ecd4da432.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 3:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Park the car on a
level surface.&nbsp; Chock the rear wheels.&nbsp; Break the lug nuts loose using
your breaker bar and the 13/16&quot; socket.&nbsp; Jack the car up and support with
jack stands on the K member.&nbsp; Leave the jack for added safety, if you
prefer.&nbsp; Remove the wheels and set aside.&nbsp; You may want to lie some
newspaper down, as you will have some brake fluid dripping.&nbsp; Here's the
stock brake setup, for reference:</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/2292898472_2a9f87f940.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 4:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Carefully remove
the ABS Sensor wire clamp from the body using a body panel pin removal tool.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/2292111789_bd7670f94f.jpg" width="400" height="300"><img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2059/2292898538_1d88b033c4.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 5:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Remove the stock
hard brake line from the rubber caliper hose using a 13MM wrench.&nbsp; Pull the
hard line up and out.&nbsp; Then remove the bracket bolt using a 10MM wrench or
socket.&nbsp; You can pull the hard line out of the bracket for more room to
work if you like.&nbsp; DO NOT bend the hard line, however.&nbsp; Once you pull
the hard line out, you'll notice some brake fluid leaking out.&nbsp; This is
normal.&nbsp; After a few minutes it will stop.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2313/2292111845_c9553696a1.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 6:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Chose a spot to
mount the solenoid.&nbsp; I chose to mark the spot and drill starter holes for
the screws, so that I could line it up accurately.&nbsp; You can mount the
solenoid vertical or horizontal.&nbsp; It is up to you.&nbsp; This is just the
way I chose.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2126/2292111911_84bf6b6134.jpg" width="400" height="300"><img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3061/2292111937_c5bef390f6.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 7:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Attach one of the
included master cylinder adapters to the stock hard line.&nbsp; Tighten using an
11/16&quot; wrench while holding the hard line's fitting with a 13MM wrench.&nbsp;
Tighten all fittings to approximately 15 ft/lbs.&nbsp; You don't want to
overtighten them, but you want a good seal.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3027/2292899430_254583f3a9.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 8:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Attach the caliper
side adapter to the fitting on the stock rubber line using a 1/2&quot; wrench.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2086/2292112685_0d20c25c56.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 9:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Reattach the
bracket on the rubber caliper hose to the body using the 10MM bolt.&nbsp; You
can put your ground ring terminal on this bolt, or on your screw for the
solenoid, depending on the size of your ring terminal.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2355/2292898690_ca301169b5.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 10:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Attach one end
your braided hose with straight fittings to the &quot;in&quot; side of the solenoid (the
right side in my setup).&nbsp; Use a 7/16&quot; wrench for the fitting and a 7/16&quot;
wrench for the hose.&nbsp; Attach the other end to the hard line fitting.&nbsp;
Hold the hard line in place with an 11/16&quot; wrench and use a 7/16&quot; wrench for the
hose fitting.&nbsp; Use the 90 degree end of the other hose to connect to the
&quot;out&quot; side of the solenoid.&nbsp; Use a 7/16&quot; wrench to hold the fitting in
place and a 7/16&quot; wrench for the hose.&nbsp; Connect the other end to the rubber
caliper side hose.&nbsp; Use a 1/2&quot; wrench to hold the rubber hose adapter in
place and tighten the braided hose with a 7/16&quot; wrench.&nbsp; I went a little
crazy with the zip ties, but wanted to make sure to keep everything out of the
way.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3250/2292111989_267e8fccdb.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 11:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Reattach the ABS
line.&nbsp; You can either zip tie it to the solenoid, or drill a new hole and
use the body pin to hold it in place.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3257/2292112025_a1c004394a.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 12:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Remove the rear
portion of the fender liner.&nbsp; It is held in place with four body pins.&nbsp;
Use a Phillips screw driver to turn counter clockwise and pull the pins out.&nbsp;
Your body pin removal tool can help for stubborn pins.&nbsp; There's 2 on the
top, one at the back, towards the bottom, and one in the middle.&nbsp; (Sorry,
no pics)</font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 13:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Cut about 8 feet
of primary wire (more or less, depending on your switch mounting position) and
crimp one end to the end of the wire from the solenoid.&nbsp; Poke a hole in the
large rubber grommet leading into the cabin.&nbsp; Push (or pull) your wire all
the way through.&nbsp; Zip tire your wiring and replace the fender liner.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2198/2292898776_5dfc0abffe.jpg" width="400" height="300"><img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2056/2292898828_130dd89d27.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Repeat steps 4-13 for the other side.&nbsp;
Both sides are exactly the same, just reverse direction.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 14:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Chose your switch
mounting location.&nbsp; Wherever you chose, the wiring will be similar, but
your interior panel removal may differ.&nbsp; I chose to use the lower dash,
just below the instrument cluster behind the windshield wiper control arm.&nbsp;
PMP recommends a momentary switch for safety.&nbsp; I chose to use an
illuminated rocker switch, because I want to be able to shift to second during
my burnout.&nbsp; After your location is selected, dismantle your interior as
needed.&nbsp; You'll most likely need your body pin remover, your Phillips screw
driver, and a bit of force (though not too much).</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3075/2292112185_d8c6643e52_o.jpg" width="240" height="320">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2151/2292898984_c1627865c9.jpg" width="240" height="320"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 15:&nbsp; Open the fuse panel located on
the lower passenger kick panel.&nbsp; Install the add-a-fuse as shown.&nbsp; The
first 5 or so fuse spots on the left are only on with the ignition.&nbsp; The
rest are on always.&nbsp; I chose to go with the right side, so that the fuse
box cover would fit back on.&nbsp; I cut a small notch in the fuse box cover, so
it could go back on with the wire hanging out.&nbsp; I routed the wiring behind
the radio.&nbsp; I used a flyswatter, but anything thin and rigid would work, to
pull my power and passenger solenoid wire through. Route all wiring to your
switch location and connect to the switch.&nbsp; Use a butt connector to combine
the two solenoid wires together.&nbsp; Use a small piece of wire on the other
side, connected to a crimp disconnect.&nbsp; Add a crimp disconnect to the
ground (if used) and power.&nbsp; Connect all wires to the switch.&nbsp; If
using an illuminated switch, find a ground.&nbsp; I found a small screw right
near my switch location that I put a ring terminal on.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2298/2292112743_b0b43d8452.jpg" width="400" height="300"><img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2222/2292899492_509a71e369.jpg" width="400" height="300">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2309/2292898878_a87c784c83.jpg" width="400" height="300"><img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2249/2292112845_a0791b5995.jpg" width="400" height="300"><img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3248/2292899580_7e4d46cd16.jpg" width="300" height="400"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 16:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Turn on ignition
if using a switched power source.&nbsp; Test the switch.&nbsp; I like using an
illuminated switch, because I know that the switch is working, so if the locks
aren't working, I know the switch is not the problem.&nbsp; When you engage the
switch, you'll hear a click come from the solenoids if they're working.&nbsp;
Make sure the sound is coming from both sides.&nbsp; Once you've got that
working, put the interior back together.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2067/2292112271_e06c1144a8.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 17:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bleed the brake
system.&nbsp; Start with the passenger's rear wheel, then the driver's rear,
then the passenger's front, then the driver's front.&nbsp; Make sure you have
all air out of the line and top off the brake fluid after every wheel.&nbsp;
I've also heard of people losing pressure in the brake system due to an ill
fitting OEM master cylinder cap.&nbsp; I went around the threads on the master
cylinder a couple of times before replacing the cap for the last time, to make
sure I've got a good seal.&nbsp; ABS systems are very sensitive to air.&nbsp;
While bleeding the brakes, make sure to check for any leaks and address those if
needed.&nbsp; </font></p>

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial">Step 18:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Find a suitable,
<b><i>off-road</i></b>, location to test the line locks.&nbsp; Firmly depress
the brake pedal and engage your switch.&nbsp; If using a momentary switch, keep
it depressed.&nbsp; Release the brake pedal.&nbsp; At this time, only the front
brakes should be locked.&nbsp; When you are finished, release the momentary
switch (or turn the rocker switch off) and your front brakes should release.</font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><font face="Arial">
<img border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3253/2292899072_e235220126.jpg" width="400" height="300"></font></p>

<p ALIGN="center"><b><font face="Arial">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a4N8BbHTFU">Click for video</a></font></b></p>

If your line locks are not working, try the following:

• Double check your grounds
• Check the add-a-fuse. Make sure the fuse is not blown and the assembly is oriented properly
• Make sure all lines are attached properly and there are no leaks
• Double check all of your wiring

<p ALIGN="left"><font face="Arial" size="2">Disclaimers:&nbsp; Line locks are
intended for off-road use only.&nbsp; StangNet and it's staff do not condone the
use of off-road products on the street.&nbsp; If unfamiliar with ABS systems or
electrical wiring, do not attempt to install without a trained professional.&nbsp;
Improper installation or use could lead to death.&nbsp; Install and use at your
own risk.</font></p>

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[bigcat]

nice write up!

 

[myfirstii]

Great write up! How much did it cost with all the parts needed?
Thanks,
Patrick

 

[DarkFireGT]

Probably around $180 I would say. Maybe less.

 

[kooldawg6]

Probably around $180 I would say. Maybe less.

DAMN IT MAN Just when I thought I could start to save some money you go and do this and under $200 and a few loving hours with your baby!!!!! I know I could use those on my auto even if I do only drag race a couple days a year
Awesome write up!

 

[MikeysOTP]

I love it when installation instructions end like this......Improper installation or use could lead to death. Install and use at your own risk.

Nice job, thanks. Someday when I get some time to work on my car I would love to do this. I actually have a pile of parts I haven't gotten to yet that have to come first though.

 

[DarkFireGT]

DAMN IT MAN Just when I thought I could start to save some money you go and do this and under $200 and a few loving hours with your baby!!!!! I know I could use those on my auto even if I do only drag race a couple days a year
Awesome write up!

haha sorry man They're definitely worth it. It just feels so smooth. It's a night and day difference between doing a brake stand. You don't feel like you're going to rip your car apart, which is always a plus

I love it when installation instructions end like this......Improper installation or use could lead to death. Install and use at your own risk.

Nice job, thanks. Someday when I get some time to work on my car I would love to do this. I actually have a pile of parts I haven't gotten to yet that have to come first though.

Tell me about it! This was the last part I received, yet the first I installed! I have the CHE K member brace for both cars, plus for the '07 I have Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Pro-Kit, BMR UCA, BMR Adj Panhard Bar, wheels and tires! Well, I take that back. My grill was the latest. But I knew that would be quick. Stupid winter. I wanted to get more of the stuff installed, but I had to install the line locks on both cars, so that was my whole weekend.

 

[kooldawg6]

haha sorry man They're definitely worth it. It just feels so smooth. It's a night and day difference between doing a brake stand. You don't feel like you're going to rip your car apart, which is always a plus



Tell me about it! This was the last part I received, yet the first I installed! I have the CHE K member brace for both cars, plus for the '07 I have Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Pro-Kit, BMR UCA, BMR Adj Panhard Bar, wheels and tires! Well, I take that back. My grill was the latest. But I knew that would be quick. Stupid winter. I wanted to get more of the stuff installed, but I had to install the line locks on both cars, so that was my whole weekend.

My car is auto so I don't feel that.
I can understand why you installed the line locks first! How can any of the other parts listed provide so much joy sitting still?????

 

[fobra559]

Great write-up DarkFireGT and vid demonstration

 

[DarkFireGT]

Thanks I wish I would've put the camera off to the side, but I wasn't thinking.

 

[fobra559]

Thanks I wish I would've put the camera off to the side, but I wasn't thinking.

You could still do it

 

[DarkFireGT]

I will in the next few weeks. This weekend I hope to get the suspension put in.

 

[MikeysOTP]

I decided to go ahead and order the parts to do this but I have a question.
The description on Jegs says the following: Note: Not for vehicles with ABS or split diagonal brake systems. Is this OK?

Also, how about using their complete kit, would that replace the PMP kit?

 

[DarkFireGT]

PMP sells two kits. One for ABS and one for cars without. Get the one for cars with ABS and the solenoids PMP recommends.

 

[MikeysOTP]

Done. Thanks Again.