Progress Thread Slow Boat To China

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by hoopty5.0, Dec 3, 2012.


  1. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry? SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    Def. call your local NHRA chassis cert guy. I'm sure he will answer this definitively. I would hate to give you bad advice on this
     
    #341
  2. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    I just got off the phone with Wolfe Racecraft, who sent the parts and said that one plate goes on the floor and the other goes vertical against the door sill and/or rear seat mount. I can get to work tacking it all up tonight now.
     
    #342
  3. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    *Tentatively* trading a set of wheels I have for an Aeromotive fuel reg/gauge and cash...

    Also may have picked up a pair of 405 lph Walbro pumps for $75. How could I say no?!? One may need a rebuild but... pfffftttttt. They're $180 each new.

    Now just need some 120lb injectors and I'll be pretty much set, other than lines and rails. I'll update the build cost once I get the aforementioned parts in my possession.
     
    #343
  4. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry? SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    Love it when a plan comes together! Pictures...... don't forget the pictures!!!
     
    #344
  5. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    Yeah,..cause I'd guess that you already have the computer to control the fuel, and spark,...the coils,...the headers,..the hotside/coldside,..the BOV, Wastegate, Electrical wiring system,battery, alternator, trans, converter, the necessary modifications done to the driveshaft, blah.......blah.........blah...You mean that kind of "set"o_O
     
    #345
  6. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    .... but I was just excited that I got a good deal on some stuff. "Set" meaning fuel system.

    I finally got some momentum, don't steal my thunder! hahaha
     
    #346
  7. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    DIYautotune.com is having a clearance on their LC-1 widebands. I just got one for $160 shipped. If you need one, I suggest you order ASAP before their supply runs out.
     
    #347
  8. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    Thanks for the tip.

    I just bought one from them for 150.00. Good deal!

    Have you decided on which kit you're gonna buy for you efi?

    I'll probably buy another MS II W/a 3.0 board. Only this time I won't upgrade the map sensor.

    (anything more than 20 p.s.i. will probably blow up my stupid 6 cylinder anyway)
     
    #348
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  9. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Same setup as you, and probably won't see over 20 psi soon enough to need the upgrade either. That is *hopefully* going to be ordered before Thanksgiving and I'll be bold enough to say that I'll have it fired off by New Years. Not driving, but started at least.


    I should also add that I goofed last night. I had a guilty conscience and told my fiance about buying the wideband because it was on clearance. I have to buy her new shoes now :doh:
     
    #349
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  10. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    There's no saving my ass,... a whole buttload of junk bought last Saturday is slotted to be on the front doorstep when she gets home,... and if she goes in the garage,............ well there's that JY 250 hanging off my engine hoist that the driver just delivered at lunch.
     
    #350
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  11. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Good news: Two pumps and a new reg. also getting a FREE engine harness.

    Bad news: repairing two bad coils and a broken spark plug in my f-150 ate my entire turbo fund, which I literally JUST saved enough to buy next week.

    F---
     

    Attached Files:

    #351
  12. NIKwoaC

    NIKwoaC 中國製造

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    [​IMG]
     
    #352
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  13. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Got about 5 mins of welding done before I ran out of wire. Luckily, Tractor Supply is open til 7 on Sundays now and 1/2 mile away. A quick trip there and i'm back in bizness... Until I ran out of cutoff blades and my sawzall s hit itself again!

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    #353
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  14. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    I've already blown through my budget for this month. Can I use 1.5" DOM to make some subframe connectors?
     
    #354
  15. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Got most of the cage finish out tonight. I'll never be accused of having professional looking welds, but good enough for the girls I date. Still no rear bars because there still isn't a trunk floor.



    Not bad for a hand job... err I mean... using a hand held grinder to notch...

    [​IMG]

    And the money shots...


    [​IMG]

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    And then I spun it around so that I can stick the engine in soon after I make some sub-frame connectors and finish the cage...

    [​IMG]
     
    #355
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  16. NIKwoaC

    NIKwoaC 中國製造

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    If you weld like you take pictures... Your welds must be blurry and out of focus. :D
     
    #356
  17. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    I've been up since 3:30 this morning. I thought it was just my contacts that dried out hahahah
     
    #357
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  18. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    It's really too late for this uh,.....er...."advice", but I'll offer it anyway.

    When you are welding w/ a 110 based wire welder, and joining fishmouthed .134 wall tubing ( like exibit A here)
    [​IMG]
    You should bevel the contact surface of the intersecting bar to insure your (how'd you describe it..... good enough for the girls I date?)welds, penetrate into each other.

    Getting two bars to "stick" to each other is monkey business. Getting the bars to stay after one of the welded joints is subjected to an impact at 100+ miles per hour is the stuff for the more advanced homonids.

    I've looked at some of the pictures you have posted and have bit my tongue, but considering what you are showing me, better to offend now, then to offer my prayers later.

    Being concerned that your bar will pass NHRA tech based on diameter and wall thickness is one thing, disregarding that a prick tech inspector will also fail you for weld integrity is another.

    Take it for what it's worth. Practice more,...weld on things other than the parts of the car that are supposed to save your life.
     
    #358
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2013
  19. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Well, having used a 110v welder, tossing it, buying a 220v, and continuing on, I understand what you are saying. I've been welding for the better part of a decade but am no pro. I appreciate your advice, I do listen to those more experienced then myself (ex. - the pipe/tubing debacle that I replaced), but I'm confident that there is a substantial amount of penetration in the seams here... If this were chromoly or some other weird s hit, you bet I'd farm the work out.

    Unfortunately, if I waited until I had enough money for a chassis shop to install the cage, paid them and waited until I had more money to continue on with the build, I'd be the disgruntled old man that had to sell his unfinished projects because he started a family and never could get around to making it happen. <--- yes, this is a fear I have.

    I don't work offshore anymore and don't have the cash flow, so it's just a game of making due with what I have. I do appreciate you looking out and voicing your concerns though. Glad someone is paying attention!
     
    #359
  20. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Well I decided to make some subframe connectors tonight.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Some of the welds came out nice, others.... (I'll be really technical here) - others seemed to be full of air and "deflated" as I went, leaving a bunch of little holes in the bead. (the first two pictures show what I mean with the little holes). Since my technique has been under scrutiny lately, I'm offering up pictures of my work in hopes that I'll get some constructive criticism on what to adjust to make the welds better.

    I adjusted the wire speed and voltage to no avail. Its a Hobart 220v MIG with 75/25 mix gas, and its incredibly simple to use, just seems to pick and choose when it wants to make nice beads.
     
    #360

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