So I Drove The Lx On The Street For The First Time In 6 Months (bonus Pics Of New Garage)

What would you guys say the limit is for a decent built 8.8 is then? Right now I am making anywhere from 400hp to 450hp. I have the factory traclok that acts like an open diff with 3.55's (really like this ratio). I was thinking if I kept my 8.8 (before I was considering the 9") I would put a Ford 31 spline traclok, matching axles, and a braced diff cover on it. I am not sure if I should do C clip eliminators or not since it is mostly a street car. I want to keep my rear drums for simplicity sake for now (car stops great and I don't want to deal with changing the MC). Future plans may involve a Coyote swap with a roots blower on it, a Dart 427, or heck maybe even an LSX swap someday (probably not). All of these would likely be in the 600hp+ range and I would hate to have to redo something that I could have done once the first time.
I have been know to be a little extreme... Lets get that out of the way now, lol.
In years past, a buddy of mine had an Outlaw Radial car (this was around 2007 ish) That car made well over 2,000 HP and saw times at the track in the 7.0@200+ range, all with an 8.8 Ford rear... Point being, your wallet is the limit of the 8.8 not HP.

For a street build that will not see the track often, daily driver: Ford Racing Gears, 31 spline differential, Moser Axles, C Clip Eliminators, Welded Axle Tubes, Girdle Cover, Spherical Bushings and rock and roll (I Like this setup up to 500rwhp ish)

For a more track oriented build, other than daily driver: Ford Racing Gears, 35 Spline Spool, 35 Spline Moser Axles, 9" Housing ends, Welded Axle Tubes, Spherical Bushings, Mark Williams Main Caps (these are way nicer than any girdle cover on the market), Solid pinion sleeve (no crush collar), 1350 Drive Shaft Yoke
 
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For a more track oriented build, other than daily driver: Ford Racing Gears, 35 Spline Spool, 35 Spline Moser Axles, 9" Housing ends, Welded Axle Tubes, Spherical Bushings, Mark Williams Main Caps (these are way nicer than any girdle cover on the market), Solid pinion sleeve (no crush collar), 1350 Drive Shaft Yoke

See this is the point when I would rather just do a 9".
 
See this is the point when I would rather just do a 9".
For just about the cost of one of my center sections you can have a bullet proof 8.8 built, don't forget about the suspension geometry when switching to a 9" too... I had to cut the top off of my fabricated 9" housing to move the suspension mounting points so that the rear suspension would plot out right.

They don't make BFG DR's anymore?
@GroverDill They certainly make them, it was more of a friendly dig than anything. Mickey Thompson has been on the top of the hill for the last few years when it comes to radials. For years BFG was the only choice but times have changed IMHO
 
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@GroverDill They certainly make them, it was more of a friendly dig than anything. Mickey Thompson has been on the top of the hill for the last few years when it comes to radials. For years BFG was the only choice but times have changed IMHO
Agreed.....I've tried the BFG D/R's, the Nitto's and neither has seemed to hook like my Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials did.

I'll buy another set for sure.
 
For just about the cost of one of my center sections you can have a bullet proof 8.8 built, don't forget about the suspension geometry when switching to a 9" too... I had to cut the top off of my fabricated 9" housing to move the suspension mounting points so that the rear suspension would plot out right.

Hmm. I would expect a new "bolt in" housing should have those kind of issues sorted already. Who built your housing?
 
Hmm. I would expect a new "bolt in" housing should have those kind of issues sorted already. Who built your housing?
My housing is from Moser, M9 Fabricated housing to be exact. The problem with most 9" housings is the physical size is larger than the 8.8 and forces the mounts to move up to accommodate a stock control arm. This wouldn't be much of a problem if the stock ride height was maintained, but lets face it... That is almost never the case. By lowering the car and raising the mounting ear higher on the housing you cause yourself a lot of pain and suffering dealing with some horrible suspension geometry. The instant center of the car is pulled wayyyy back, to the point that even adjustable holes in the chassis won't help. It's not just Moser that has this problem, it's across the board. I've had to deal with this on Strange's housing and Chris Alstons as well.

This may not look like an appreciable difference, but an inch or so mean a whole lot!
This is a standard housing with run of the mill 8.8 style upper mounting points:
th


This is a housing built to have correct geometry:
IMG_27861.jpg

Note the notches cut in the housing to lower the mounts appropriately. Even I didn't take mine to that extreme, I also only have 2 usable holes for adjustment, the third requires more extensive modifications.
These pictures were "borrowed" from the interwebz for informational purposes
 
My housing is from Moser, M9 Fabricated housing to be exact. The problem with most 9" housings is the physical size is larger than the 8.8 and forces the mounts to move up to accommodate a stock control arm. This wouldn't be much of a problem if the stock ride height was maintained, but lets face it... That is almost never the case. By lowering the car and raising the mounting ear higher on the housing you cause yourself a lot of pain and suffering dealing with some horrible suspension geometry. The instant center of the car is pulled wayyyy back, to the point that even adjustable holes in the chassis won't help. It's not just Moser that has this problem, it's across the board. I've had to deal with this on Strange's housing and Chris Alstons as well.

This may not look like an appreciable difference, but an inch or so mean a whole lot!
This is a standard housing with run of the mill 8.8 style upper mounting points:
th


This is a housing built to have correct geometry:
IMG_27861.jpg

Note the notches cut in the housing to lower the mounts appropriately. Even I didn't take mine to that extreme, I also only have 2 usable holes for adjustment, the third requires more extensive modifications.
These pictures were "borrowed" from the interwebz for informational purposes

That makes a lot of sense now that I see it in pictures. Rats. I live out in the sticks where there aren't a lot of fabricators/competent mechanics so I get stuck doing most of my own work. Thus I generally try to find bolt on solutions whenever possible.
 
That makes a lot of sense now that I see it in pictures. Rats. I live out in the sticks where there aren't a lot of fabricators/competent mechanics so I get stuck doing most of my own work. Thus I generally try to find bolt on solutions whenever possible.
There are a few companies that sell housings that are truly ready to go, just get ready to pay top top dollar for them. I'm just handy with a welder and am otherwise too damn cheap to pay for things I can otherwise do myself. I bet after you price a complete drum to drum 9" for you fox body out that 8.8 will look a lot more appetizing!
 
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There are a few companies that sell housings that are truly ready to go, just get ready to pay top top dollar for them. I'm just handy with a welder and am otherwise too damn cheap to pay for things I can otherwise do myself. I bet after you price a complete drum to drum 9" for you fox body out that 8.8 will look a lot more appetizing!

I was expecting to spend $2500-$3K.

ETA: Or unless I get real randy and go with a Cobra IRS setup since it is 99% a street car thanks to all our tracks closing down.
 
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Hmm. There should be a few places in austin that can beef something up for you. If not, there is a guy in houston that does FANTASTIC work with 8.8s and isn't a huge shop with a lot of overhead. same guy who designs the custom brake brackets so you can run S197 brakes on a fox.
 
Shopping list for 9"
Center Section -1,275 + ( Moser Engineering - 9" & 9 1/2" Ford Complete Built To Order Center Section / Third Member - Custom Built Center Sections - Center Sections & Parts )
Axles -370 ( Moser Engineering - Part # A35CST - Custom Length Alloy 35 Spline Axles )
Brakes -550 ( Might as well get some disc brakes http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aar-ac-520/overview/ )
Housing - 605 (Team Z appears to make a bolt in housing with correct geometry although I have no personal experience with it Team Z Mustang Bolt-in Ford 9" Housing )

This puts you right at 2,800 with no upgrades, shipping or misc parts/fluids etc.

Shopping list for 8.8:

Spool and Axle Package -575 Moser Engineering - Part # ASP2 - Spool & Axle Package (C-Clip Eliminator Type) - Spool and Axle Packages
Gears -155 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-4209-88373/overview/
Install Kit -74 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-305k/overview/
Solid spacer to eliminate crush sleeve -5 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rmg-04-0011-1
Girdle -185 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-4033-g2
Welding of axle tubes -100
Gear setup -250 (If you were in NJ this is what we get in our shop for this)

This puts you at 1,344 less than half the cost before incidentals. You can re use your factory brakes and other components

Just food for thought...

FYI These are the parts I would recommend to any customer walking through our doors. There are certainly other parts options out there that may be of different cost/quality
 
My old drums wouldn't fit the 9" housing either would they.
Nope, the mounting flanges have different bolt patterns. By the time you buy a drum set up for the 9" (backing plates, hardware, shoes, drums, wheel cylinders etc) you will likely have spent as much as a decent disc setup