My buddy had one in his 94 GT about 10 years ago. I liked the feel of it for sure, but first and third gear seemed way too close to the radio. In fact when he drag raced it, sometimes he would punch the radio on accident shifting into third, lol.
So you want a short throw shifter....
- Thread starter cobra10494
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Points to consider....
Point 1.....The shift handle bolts will not work themselves loose. At least not the ones on my Tri-Ax. The bolts themselves fasten through the handle, threaded into the base, through to the other end of the fulcrum lever, where they are then locked in place by a jam nut. If one were truly worried about them working loose, a little blue locktite would put that worry to rest. In any case, I’d rather the option of removing my handle, to get to the trans, or interior dash consol, than have to remove the whole shifter.
Point 2.....I don’t know how much easier the shift stops could possibly be to adjust than a 15mm nut and bolt? Adjust the depth with the bolt, lock it into place with the nut. Done! B&M shifter adjusts the same way, only an Allen head bolt takes place of the hex head bolt.
Point 3.....Shifters do not “create” vibration. The stock shifter controls existing vibration with the use of a bulky, soft, factory rubber damper located between the fulcrum lever and shift handle. While it does a great job of dampening vibrations felt through the driveline, it’s also the reason the stock shifter feels like piece of boiled spaghetti when ripping through the gears. All aftermarket shifters are built around the same design…B&M included. They use a fulcrum pivot shaft method and utilize some sort of external adjustable shift. The shift ratio’s may change, the handle positions may change and the materials they’re made of may differ, but they’re all based around the same design. If any excessive vibration is felt through the shifter, it’s more likely due to other issues in the driveline. (Bad u-joint, drive shaft out of balance, worn out engine/trans mounts or control arm bushings, worn out tail stock bushing in the T5, etc).
Point 4.....If the shifter in fact does have the once piece handle, then it is either the old style ripper, or the newly rebadged “ precision sport” shifter. Good shifter, but not noticeably any better than the others mentioned I had a Kirban on my last car and a Hurst on the one before that. I've got a Steeda on my current Fox and have tried one with the Pro-5.0. What I have determined is that they're all a huge improvement over stock and for comfort, I prefer the long handle shifters to the short. Can't say that one was vastly any more "superior" to another though?
Point 1.....The shift handle bolts will not work themselves loose. At least not the ones on my Tri-Ax. The bolts themselves fasten through the handle, threaded into the base, through to the other end of the fulcrum lever, where they are then locked in place by a jam nut. If one were truly worried about them working loose, a little blue locktite would put that worry to rest. In any case, I’d rather the option of removing my handle, to get to the trans, or interior dash consol, than have to remove the whole shifter.
Point 2.....I don’t know how much easier the shift stops could possibly be to adjust than a 15mm nut and bolt? Adjust the depth with the bolt, lock it into place with the nut. Done! B&M shifter adjusts the same way, only an Allen head bolt takes place of the hex head bolt.
Point 3.....Shifters do not “create” vibration. The stock shifter controls existing vibration with the use of a bulky, soft, factory rubber damper located between the fulcrum lever and shift handle. While it does a great job of dampening vibrations felt through the driveline, it’s also the reason the stock shifter feels like piece of boiled spaghetti when ripping through the gears. All aftermarket shifters are built around the same design…B&M included. They use a fulcrum pivot shaft method and utilize some sort of external adjustable shift. The shift ratio’s may change, the handle positions may change and the materials they’re made of may differ, but they’re all based around the same design. If any excessive vibration is felt through the shifter, it’s more likely due to other issues in the driveline. (Bad u-joint, drive shaft out of balance, worn out engine/trans mounts or control arm bushings, worn out tail stock bushing in the T5, etc).
Point 4.....If the shifter in fact does have the once piece handle, then it is either the old style ripper, or the newly rebadged “ precision sport” shifter. Good shifter, but not noticeably any better than the others mentioned I had a Kirban on my last car and a Hurst on the one before that. I've got a Steeda on my current Fox and have tried one with the Pro-5.0. What I have determined is that they're all a huge improvement over stock and for comfort, I prefer the long handle shifters to the short. Can't say that one was vastly any more "superior" to another though?
I like mine. My only complaint is the lack of shift stops. According to MGW that is due to Tremec warranty concerns and improper adjustment. I don't care for it personally, so MGW is hooking me up with a plate that has stops I can adjust myself.
- Dec 19, 2010
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darthcual
Member
I had the pro-ripper b&m on my coupe and out of the three that I've used (pro 5.0, steeda triax) it was my favorite. Just felt the most solid when banging gears.
Oh, that was no implication... He outright said it! Which is good, cuz if he didn't, I would have.
Anyway.... Over the last many years, I've gone through a shifter or two. My OEM shifter in the original tranny of my 86 was WELL worn in and worked great. It wasn't until the first time I changed the tranny that I realized what a relic it was. Went Pro 5.0
It was too notchy, not smooth at all. Sold it (to someone who ended up loving the thing) and went with a Tri-Ax. I never looked back.I have an MGW in my 89. It's also very nice (I bought it based on all the rave reviews). My Tri-Ax feels smoother/slides into gear easier. The 89 gets driven once in a blue moon whereas I've driven the Tri-Ax for a LOT years and banged the crap out of that thing for many, many gear changes (in other words, it's well worn in and I've very accustomed to it).
foxbodymike87
Active Member
- Jul 12, 2011
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my shifter was buggin me cuz the bolts kept coming loose. Even under easy driving and loc tite, so i just ordered one of these ripper shifters. Damn thing set me back 212 friggen bucks.
jdb3rd
Member
Why are you using a shifter for an oar? Sounds like a tough way to paddle around the lake if you ask me.
jdb3rd
Member
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