Engine Some cooling questions

I might have missed it, but did you check for the lower air dam, side shields and shroud???
Please do not do further YouTube testing without checking in here first. You do not want bent blades or them blowing chunks.
 
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So I noticed my lower rad house felt crunchy so I took it off to see if it was clogged but it turns out it just has a spring inside it to reinforce it. So I put it back on. Now since the coolant is drained I figured I’d refill it with distilled water and a chemical radiator flush to clean out the cooling system. Can anyone recommend me a good radiator flush?
 
So I noticed my lower rad house felt crunchy so I took it off to see if it was clogged but it turns out it just has a spring inside it to reinforce it. So I put it back on. Now since the coolant is drained I figured I’d refill it with distilled water and a chemical radiator flush to clean out the cooling system. Can anyone recommend me a good radiator flush?
Prestone’s is pretty safe and easy to get.
 
Just a hose, run it till its clear and throw in some $5 AC Delco seal tablets, not a fan of flushing the system with any products unless its before your replacing the entire system down to the heat core. Your just asking for leaks on 30 yr old stuff with any product that could break up rust.
 
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Just a hose, run it till its clear and throw in some $5 AC Delco seal tablets, not a fan of flushing the system with any products unless its before your replacing the entire system down to the heat core. Your just asking for leaks on 30 yr old stuff with any product that could break up rust.
Yea that was a concern of mine I don’t want to make anything worse. This is how it looks on the inside from the cap can you tell if it’s in bad shape or not? I’ve already done a flush with just water in the past so it’s got fresh coolant.
 

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@AnthonyA1234
Ewwww. I can see why you are wanting to flush the system. Anything strong enough to get that scale might expose thin or no metal below it like @rednotch is also worrying about.
Flush the rest of the system with clean water, drain it and use compressed air to help get it empty before adding distilled water and new antifreeze.
Somewhere in there I’d have the radiator cleaned at a radiator shop. Your heater core is undisturbed, the radiator is cleaned and pressure tested.
And if the hose is crunchy, even with the spring, or is spongy, replace them.
 
Yea that was a concern of mine I don’t want to make anything worse. This is how it looks on the inside from the cap can you tell if it’s in bad shape or not? I’ve already done a flush with just water in the past so it’s got fresh coolant.
Typical for an old brass copper radiator that wasn't serviced much. Multiple water flushes letting it get to temp and cycle a few times with straight water, will knock most of it out without using a high ph flush to eat at the crude. Then just a 50/50 or 30/70 mix since your in fl with distilled water for the final fill. I've been using Toyota pink in my cars if it has an aluminum radaiator for the last 2 decades since working for them. normal green in my one car that still has an old gdi brass 3 core which I'm betting is what's in your car.
 
I have one of those brass GDI radiators as well. Gotta be pushing 20 years old.

I flushed mine using a distilled water and vinegar mix. Still does a great job keeping the car cool without needing too much fan.

Wish they still made that radiator (in brass)


EDIT: looking at the pics, it does look like the same GDI radiator I have
 
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You will cry if you ever check the cost to recore one, $99 dollar parts store special with a lifetime warranty, mine out lasted pep boys. Bought mine back when 93 gas was 95 cents here so late 90s.
 
Its a 20 yr old give or take brass copper radiator, that's just calcium build up, none of the tubes looked plugged to me, if there's no signs of leakage when you remove it don't chuck it. Cap it and fill it with a water, vinegar mix and let it soak for a day or two will clean it right up, then flush it out with some baking soda and water.. You could probably sell it for more then the aluminum radiator your replacing it with. I've never hard a cheap China aluminum radiator last like those old brass copper ones.
 
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Its a 20 yr old give or take brass copper radiator, that's just calcium build up, none of the tubes looked plugged to me, if there's no signs of leakage when you remove it don't chuck it. Cap it and fill it with a water, vinegar mix and let it soak for a day or two will clean it right up, then flush it out with some baking soda and water.. You could probably sell it for more then the aluminum radiator your replacing it with. I've never hard a cheap China aluminum radiator last like those old brass copper ones.


Agreed. That's all i did to my radiator and it cleaned up pretty well.

To be frank, i'd rather spend the money to recore it, than get a China-made aluminum radiator.
 
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Agreed. That's all i did to my radiator and it cleaned up pretty well.

To be frank, i'd rather spend the money to recore it, than get a China-made aluminum radiator.
Probably still cheaper to buy a new one, but those old $100 brass copper 3 cores run about $500 min. for a new unit, last recore I was quoted over $600 and that was from a puncture. Not many radiator repair shops left, and the few who still do it really chage you for it. Just like most everything else today, between labor and parts, the cost is more then buying new.
 
I am running the original 1965 brass cored radiator in one of my cars. It boiled out and is still better (reliable) than any aluminum radiator sold at a mail order place today.
If they find a pinhole leak, they can solder it and you go down the road.
 
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Probably still cheaper to buy a new one, but those old $100 brass copper 3 cores run about $500 min. for a new unit, last recore I was quoted over $600 and that was from a puncture. Not many radiator repair shops left, and the few who still do it really chage you for it. Just like most everything else today, between labor and parts, the cost is more then buying new.


Ouch. I had an old brass heater core quoted for a recore by a local shop and they wanted $125 or so for that. I didn't figure it would run up that high to do the radiator.

What aftermarket radiators these days are worth the money? I don't need one right now, but in the future if I do I would rather not run a China aluminum radiator.

Definitely going to make sure i take care of this brass 3-core I have
 
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In 2001 and newer vehicles, I’ve lost a Dodge and two Ford radiators under warranty, and another Dodge one out of warranty. Three were from the end tanks crimp or the gasket. I’m not impressed with new styles of radiators.
 
Not still sells brass 3 cores. Think there from
Ouch. I had an old brass heater core quoted for a recore by a local shop and they wanted $125 or so for that. I didn't figure it would run up that high to do the radiator.

What aftermarket radiators these days are worth the money? I don't need one right now, but in the future if I do I would rather not run a China aluminum radiator.

Definitely going to make sure i take care of this brass 3-core I have
us radiator out of alabama is what most are selling these days. NPD carries them but you can get a repo in the same specs as the old gdi 3 core for $500 give or take if you shop around. its one of thing I all ways look for when i see claimed low milage unmolested cars, flippers are to cheap to buy a repo and just slap in a cheap aluminium one.
 
I have a 3 core brass as well with no issues. I still have my OEM 2 core brass as well kicking around. There was nothing wrong with it, I just found the 3 core before I got my car on the road.