Starter solenoid part getting VERY hot..help?

[Bottomlesspit]

Hi guys. I am seeking out some help once again for this 92 hatch.
It was definitely piece-meal wired back together by a 12 year old that had skipped the last 4 years of schooling...
The wiring in the engine bay was a disaster when we bought the car a few years ago. I did my best to cover all the bare wires, re-ran the ones that I could, etc.
Tonight I was messing around under the hood when I ran my hand around the starter solenoid area and felt some intense heat. I started checking and found out the heat was from the little metal box mounted on the rear stud on the solenoid. It actually burned my finger! If I remember correctly it was for the power windows on my 93 vert I had. Is this correct? Maybe the locks?
I disconnnected the battery so I don't burn the house down.
Any ideas or suggestions to help me figure this out? I am sure it's not normal to be that hot, and must be something grounded out? I need a starting point. The biggest problem I have been facing is where someone before had installed an alarm system that splice into the door locks, ignition, etc. I have been pulling miles and miles of wire out from under the dash since none of it worked. I have literally filled a trashcan full of wires and control boxes. Unbelievable mess.
The power windows still work, but the power door locks are not working.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Ken

 

[HISSIN50]

Ken, I do believe you're right about the circuit breaker on the rear of the solenoid (battery side) being for the PW. If so, that breaker's wire should become a black and yellow wire downstream of the breaker (edit: I'm conversant with early Aero fox wiring. Your wire color might vary).

You probably know most of the following (or have better ideas) but thinking aloud:

I might remove the eyelet for the PW breaker and put your meter in series between the eyelet and battery lug of the solenoid. Check for current draw. Of course, be cognizant of the fire danger anytime the solenoid is connected (in its current state). Or just play it safe and run a new wire from under the hood and into the passenger compartment. That might be the safest route.

On the PDL's (assuming no factory keyless), most installers will grab the lock wiring at the top of the driver's kick panel. With a keyless car, you Tee into the OEM wiring but with no factory keyless, you have to open the lock and unlock wires respectively. If you found a pair of SPDT relays or a DEI 451M module, they might have been connected to the locks. Once the OEM wires are rejoined, locks should return (the alternative, if the relays are functional, is to leave them in place. Only the common and normally closed wires need to remain. Tthose are where the cut-ends run for each relay).

Jrichker and/or Saleen0679 (et al) will be along shortly with some excellent advice I'm sure.

Good luck with the rat's nest Ken. That sucks man.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Do you have a electrical meter than can measure amps in DC?? If so, see how much current it's drawing.

 

[Saleen0679]

The inline circuit breaker mounted to the starter relay is used in the power window circuit only on the vert. On other models it is used for the power locks and power lumbar. Since you have such a mess of wires related to the locks I would concentrate there first.

 

[Bottomlesspit]

Wow, thanks guys. I appreciate the sound advice from all of you. Yes, I have all the equipment I need for measuring DC, along with just about every tool needed to work on a mustang with. Glad I saved all my stuff after chucking my 93...whew!
I didn't know that the inline CB had changed between the verts and hatch's. That helps alot and explains some things. Door locks quit working...hot breaker...hummm?
I'm on it today...have the whole driver's side tore apart...inside and out, even the fender is off. Look out men, I'm going in! Cover me! It could get ugly for a bit.
Thanks again...great info.
Ken

 

[Bottomlesspit]

I STILL haven't made it into the interior yet. I spent all evening trying to get all the engine bay wiring put back in shape. Whoever did the wiring job on this car obviously has no concept of quality or neatness. Bare wires everywhere, tangled mess of wires, broken/missing connectors...you name it.
I had to scrounge a coil plug from the junkyard to replace the crimped on female spade connectors without a housing. BARE wires and non-insulated spades hooked up to the coil It is a wonder this car hadn't burned up at some point. I have soldered all new wiring and connectors, so things are looking better. Tomorrow I tackle the interior and the short in the door locks.
This sure makes me appreciate what I had in my 93. Stupid me, stupid me. I still can't get over selling it like I did.
If anyone reads this I have another question for you.
I am also tracing an airbag problem. I am getting code 41 which says there is an open connection in the forward crash sensor circuit. I was following the airbag diagnosis table and it talks about a Forward Left and a Forward right sensor, as well as a Front Center sensor. Does anyone actually have a center sensor? I sure don't remember one on my old 93, and I sure as heck don't have one on this 92. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Thanks again for all the help and good wishes...I need them all!!!
Ken