Tackled the Spark Plugs Tonight...

If I broke something, I would not charge an additional amount.

One of the meanings of "estimate" in my dictionary is "a statement of cost of work to be done." I think that is the definition that the California Bureau of Automotive Repair uses. A shop can not charge more than the initial estimate unless the customer approves it. If I were given an estimate of $200 to change the spark plugs, and the shop called to say they broke some of the plugs and wanted $1000 to do the job, I doubt I would approve it.

exactly, they cant just tack on whatever they feel like, since you did not authorize work. the shop does need to get approval prior to work, or they can get stuck with it. i though you were saying they should stick to their quote no matter what.
 
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I thought that when a shop gives you an estimate for a job, they need to stick to that price if they break something. The occasional breaking of something should be built into the estimate. In many cases the shop estimates a price for a job and finishes it much quicker than what was figured into the estimate. They charge the estimate price. In the long run, things should balance out. Sometimes the shop eats the bear and sometimes the bear eats the shop.


from most people that have addressed this issue, ford should tell you before thay do the work that they are not responsible for broken plugs and it will be your dime if they break it. I got my nickel anti seize of amazon, big bottle, probably will last a lifeime. i pulled my plugs with 5500 miles, did not have any problems, but they were nasty with carbon buildup
 
If I broke something, I would not charge an additional amount.

One of the meanings of "estimate" in my dictionary is "a statement of cost of work to be done." I think that is the definition that the California Bureau of Automotive Repair uses. A shop can not charge more than the initial estimate unless the customer approves it. If I were given an estimate of $200 to change the spark plugs, and the shop called to say they broke some of the plugs and wanted $1000 to do the job, I doubt I would approve it.[/QUOTE]


thats the problem tho, you will say no, and your car wont run because they broke one of the plugs. From my understanding, if the break is to the point where fords removal tool cant remove it, the head has to be pulled to remove the plug...OMG labor costs for that would be sky high
 
from most people that have addressed this issue, ford should tell you before thay do the work that they are not responsible for broken plugs and it will be your dime if they break it. I got my nickel anti seize of amazon, big bottle, probably will last a lifeime. i pulled my plugs with 5500 miles, did not have any problems, but they were nasty with carbon buildup

I'm going to pull one of my plugs tomorrow and see how it looks. I'll keep yall posted.
 
Changed my plugs today while installing my Whipple. Old Autolites out (7200 miles) - no problems at all. New FRPP HT0's in with nickel anti-sieze. Followed the plug change recommendations - all-in-all pretty simple. Should fire it up by the end of the day tomorrow. Hopefully no issues.
 
What plug should i use for N/A Application?

Where to buy it? Anyone got the details on the Champions or Auto-lites by part # or anything?

And what type of pentrating liquid to use for removal of the old plugs etc?

also anyone wanna write up a nice tech guide on the removal of the old plugs w/ pics?
 
Plugs

Everything you need to know about removal of old plugs can be found in the latest TSB from Ford.

For N/A, most are going with Champion #7989 plugs. Best price, from what I read, is from Rock Auto. I gapped mine @ .044" and it runs great. Don't forget the nickel anti-seize applied to the lower "barrel" of the plug - not to the threads. I bought Permatex nickel Anti-seize from Amazon.com, good to like 2600* F.