The Truth about FOX FRONT BRAKES!
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I used Baer 14" cross-drilled rotors with some Wilwood calipers and stainless lines on the track at Hallett Motor Racing circuit in Oklahoma, and after a good week of break-in before racing, they lasted almost 2 days on the track before I notice small cracks forming at each hole in the rotor. Won't go with them again.
Because suckers will buy them. BUT you need a core to give to the store, at least around here you do. Other than that, you can add $70 to the total per caliper 
BlackFox5.0
Founding Member
NASCAR and F1 cars use Baer brakes.....
Unless you change the diameter of the rotor, the surface area or material of the pad, or the clamping force of the caliper your braking power will not change. Go ahead and get your crossdrilled/slotted rotors, they will only be a placebo.
Go here www.corner-carvers.com and search for posts about crossdrilled rotors, they want to hear about it just like we want to hear about the "tornado" intake crap. FYI that site has professional racers, not everyday drivers like many people here.....these guys are serious, and into competition racing. Like I said before, they sell them for stock cars because people buy them, just like import body kits, sure 90% of the planet thinks they are very disgusting, but there are many people who buy it, supply the demand.....
If you want to keep going on about this then go ahead, I'm done saying what I have to say, I know they are pointless on a street car, and I know they can be helpful for RACING, but they have to be quality made, and NOT on stock brakes.
Unless you change the diameter of the rotor, the surface area or material of the pad, or the clamping force of the caliper your braking power will not change. Go ahead and get your crossdrilled/slotted rotors, they will only be a placebo.
Go here www.corner-carvers.com and search for posts about crossdrilled rotors, they want to hear about it just like we want to hear about the "tornado" intake crap. FYI that site has professional racers, not everyday drivers like many people here.....these guys are serious, and into competition racing. Like I said before, they sell them for stock cars because people buy them, just like import body kits, sure 90% of the planet thinks they are very disgusting, but there are many people who buy it, supply the demand.....
If you want to keep going on about this then go ahead, I'm done saying what I have to say, I know they are pointless on a street car, and I know they can be helpful for RACING, but they have to be quality made, and NOT on stock brakes.
Thats where i disagree BlackFox. I think they do help SOME, on stock brakes and like i said, reason being, the pads wear out faster with slotted/cross drilled rotors. If you can give me some other reason why they wear out faster and it not being that they grab the rotor better (thus wear faster). Then i'd like to hear it.
Latham83, that guy is right, you will need to give them ur old 60mm calipers as the core, so that they are 25$.
As for any other braking power, the only thing i could suggest would be a new more powerful master cylinder or brake booster, but i dont know how much they run and i dont think it would be worth it.
As for any other braking power, the only thing i could suggest would be a new more powerful master cylinder or brake booster, but i dont know how much they run and i dont think it would be worth it.
alright so give me a parts list here...stainless lines, caliper bussings/sleeves..both from maximum motersports? hawk pads...which ones do i need to fit the 73mm calipers? and a stock rotor and good fluid...where should i buy a stock rotor at?? cheapest price??
fluid?? need all the questions answered thanks..
do i need ANYTHIGN else to get braking done
fluid?? need all the questions answered thanks..
do i need ANYTHIGN else to get braking done
So for better front braking on fox. And i mean if you wanna see a great improvement.
Do these 5 things and i promise you will not rearend anyone again. (Unless you are really dumb).
1.73mm Calipers (steel piston)----remanufactured from Schucks/NAPA
2.Caliper Bushings? ---- maximum motorsports
3.Good brake pads (hawk?) -----NAPA/Schucks
4.Stainless brake lines----maximum motorsports
5.New Fluid, get your brakes flushed -----any where!
Just ask schucks/Napa, when you buy the new calipers, for hawk pads that fit the 73mm calipers, they will have them, or if not they will order them for you.
Do these 5 things and i promise you will not rearend anyone again. (Unless you are really dumb).
1.73mm Calipers (steel piston)----remanufactured from Schucks/NAPA
2.Caliper Bushings? ---- maximum motorsports
3.Good brake pads (hawk?) -----NAPA/Schucks
4.Stainless brake lines----maximum motorsports
5.New Fluid, get your brakes flushed -----any where!
Just ask schucks/Napa, when you buy the new calipers, for hawk pads that fit the 73mm calipers, they will have them, or if not they will order them for you.
wow sweet..so i dont need any other parts??? no need to upgrade master cylinder right...or booster..
i'd be going to my advance auto parts store for the calipers..its linked to shucks...allt he time...what stock rotors should i look for though im asking...motorcraft???what name?
i'd be going to my advance auto parts store for the calipers..its linked to shucks...allt he time...what stock rotors should i look for though im asking...motorcraft???what name?
siege
New Member
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...REGULAR+PARTS+LOOK+UP|~BRAKE+CALIPER+-++FRONT
that means they are $25.99 plus an extra $15 (each) which is refundable when you return the old ones. since you don't have the same ones, you probably won't get your $15 back. so that makes them $40 each.
that means they are $25.99 plus an extra $15 (each) which is refundable when you return the old ones. since you don't have the same ones, you probably won't get your $15 back. so that makes them $40 each.
latham83 said:
Right. No need to upgrade master cylinder or booster. Just make sure to get ur brakes bled/flushed. As for stock rotors, it doesnt really matter. Personally i'd keep the ones you have right now, unless they are at their end. Then i would get some remanufactured (if they even have them?) or get the cheapest ones i can find. stock rotors ARE stock rotors.
rd
Founding Member
I really don't want to get in a contest, but the stock brakes on my 79 Capri have worked for 260,000 miles, even though I have replaced all the moving parts at least once.
They seem to work for any normal driving I have ever done, and will ever do, and they are inexpensive and easy to service. (except the *&^%combination valve)
There are as many theories on this as anything else, but, by my calculations, the stock 4 cyl brakes, with a manual conversion, would be lighter and stop me at the end of the track as well as upgraded rotors. And I read that rear discs have less capacity to hold at the line and more drag on the track than old fashioned drums.
Just another viewpoint.
Scary thought, 9 out of 10 other people on the road give much less thought than anyone here to brake performance at all........
They seem to work for any normal driving I have ever done, and will ever do, and they are inexpensive and easy to service. (except the *&^%combination valve)
There are as many theories on this as anything else, but, by my calculations, the stock 4 cyl brakes, with a manual conversion, would be lighter and stop me at the end of the track as well as upgraded rotors. And I read that rear discs have less capacity to hold at the line and more drag on the track than old fashioned drums.
Just another viewpoint.
Scary thought, 9 out of 10 other people on the road give much less thought than anyone here to brake performance at all........
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