Unfortunately, need help again...

[Ductape91]

well, once again i need seek advice from you guys heres my situation,

problem 1/ after changing my clutch which my car desperately needed(was slipping for over 2 years with more than a 1/2'in input on gas pedal ) with a luk gold series clutch to get her back on the road. while i was down there i figured i may as well change the cable too, since it must be streched at least a foot+ by now when i ran into my first problem. when my brother had this car(before i owned it) the cabe must have snapped on him and as a quick fix he just looped it and clamped the cable into the hole, omiting the clevis pin and such. now in order to use the new cabe that i have(had) i need to get the parts for it so i went to the ford dealer and tried to order them, i got the clip(part #D5FZ-2861-A)but the pin is obsolete. is there a similar type part i can use for this or will i have to use a bolt and nut?

problem 2/ while changing the clutch i snapped one of the studs that holds the exhast manifold to the exhast pipe, which wont be fun to remove. so while i was at the dealership i tried to get that part also, but seems that part is obsolete also went to autozone and pepboys but seems they dont carry it either. is there a place that still has these or will i have to get the mesurements and see if i can find a stud from something else? the heat from the exhast leak is making my cel come on and the car runs like crap from the intake hose getting really hot.

i know its alot to read but im just trying to fix whats broken with what little loot i have. any help on this is greatly appriciated and will probly be rewarded in the next life ::haha::
thanks, Rich

 

[RustBucket]

I ran into the same issue when I threw the T5 in my car. I got the clevis from Ford, but not the pin(you'd think they'd be a package deal). I took a 3/8" bolt that was 2" long and cut it down. The reason I used the long bolt was so that there was a shoulder that would stop the nut from tightening against the linkage and it's stronger there than the threaded part of the bolt. I cut it off just past the nut. Works great.

Did you get the rest of the broken stud out of the head? That's the first order of business. How to go about removing it depends on where it broke, if it broke flush or below the head surface, you're drilling it out. If it left a little that you can get a bite on with some vice-grips you might be able to heat it up and lube it up to get it out.

 

[Ductape91]

tomorrow when i get the clip ill take a look at some bolts and see what i can get to work,i had a feeling i was gonna have to do that anyway but i might get lucky and find one in the junkyard one of these days. oh well but thanks for the reply though
and also, the stud in the exhast manifold broke off with like half of it sticking out (dont ya just love the rustbelt) so it shouldnt be too much trouble taking it out after i soak it for a few days and heat it up. hopefully i wont have to take the manifold out to get it out considering theres some thread left on it i might be able to double nut it but i dont know what im going to replace that with other than a bolt

 

[Red_LX]

For the pin- you could either get a bolt and cut it down, or go to a hardware store like Lowe's and look at their "hitch pins" (I believe that's what they're called). They have all different sizes, most of them are longer than what you need but you can cut them also, and get a hairpin clip to hold it in place.

As for the broken stud, JCWhitney sells these things that are kinda like c-clamps that you can use to repair a broken manifold stud...go look around on their website, you should be able to find what I'm talking about on there.

In the meantime you might try a small cheap C-clamp?

 

[Ductape91]

i got the clevis and just replaced my clutch cable, went without a hitch. i just reused the bolt that i had put in to keep the cable tight(makes more sense if you see what im talking about) and now i have a new clutch and clutch cable
the peadal feels much softer than it used to(sorta like a hondas cluch peadal) but goes into gear nicely.
as for the c- clamp idea, its kinda funny my dad made that suggestion to me also.
i was going to do that but the clamp i had was too big so if i can find a smaller on ill see how it comes out, or ill try a pair of vice grips whichever is more available to me when i go to fix it.
im happy i got the cable done and thanks for the suggestions, they bring me closer to living with a reliable form of transportation.
and rustbucket, i agree the clevis and pin should be part of a set(in the same bag)
now i will try to find a bolt to replace the stud and ill be set for the winter.

 

[Dan'l]

Lift up on your clutch pedal to self adjust the cable occasionally, also, go underneath and check/replace the little link from the rocker to the clutch fork. that little cable link makes a really irritating drive home when she brakes.

 

[Ductape91]

Lift up on your clutch pedal to self adjust the cable occasionally, also, go underneath and check/replace the little link from the rocker to the clutch fork. that little cable link makes a really irritating drive home when she brakes.

do you mean the dogbone cable? if so we(me&my brother) omited that thing a long time ago. got sick of spending 25 bucks and 3 months to as soon as 30 seconds having to go back to the dealer for another "quality" replacement. a bolt and some washers took care of that
hopefully the quatrant dont go on me now, not that i expect it to just the way my luck is
anyways, thanks for the suggestions

 

[Ductape91]

update:

just wanted to know if anyone has tried this
since i couldnt locate a stud for my exhaust i went to compare bolts but the thread pich on the one i found werent the same, roaming around the store i looked in the help section and found replacement studs (part#03129) for fords.
before i go to put them in i just wanted to ask if anyone has used/tried these yet?

thanks in advance

 

[Ductape91]

nevermind, read in another post size is m12-1.75, which is the size of these replacement studs.