Ok so i returned my car to stock. Ran fine. Swapped out the EGR spacer for the stock one and now its surging and i have no vaccum(boost gauge is still hooked up). This might be a stupid question, but is there anything other than the actual vaccum hoses that i should check that could be causing a problem? Could it be the EGR valve that is the problem?
Vaccum question
- Thread starter BaXTeR3221
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A stuck open EGR will cause idle problems. It will usually set code 34 or 35 when it sticks open.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Misrouted vacuum lines can cause the EGR to remain open. See the attached diagram courtsey of Tmoss & Stang&2birds for vacuum line routing
The EGR spacer has two gaskets that are possible sources of leaks. One gasket between the EGR spacer and TB and the other gasket between the EGR spacer and upper manifold.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Misrouted vacuum lines can cause the EGR to remain open. See the attached diagram courtsey of Tmoss & Stang&2birds for vacuum line routing
The EGR spacer has two gaskets that are possible sources of leaks. One gasket between the EGR spacer and TB and the other gasket between the EGR spacer and upper manifold.
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