What should my engine temp and oil pressure be?

[mikemustang289]

Well I just got back from trying to let the air out of the radiator. Didnt go so well. As it reached about 160, the coolant was starting to bubble over the neck. So I quick put the cap back on and shut the car off. It didnt even reach 180. Whats wrong? Too much coolant? I have an overflow so I can fill it all the way to the top. I dont know what to do now.

If coolant started coming out of the radiator, that means 2 things, 1. there is no air in the system, and 2. your thermostat was open. When the thermostat opens the water pump will begin to cycle the coolant and this is when it should begin to poor out of the top of the radiator.

Are you sure you have a 180 degree thermostat? are you also sure your gauge is reading correctly?

 

[Hack]

When I bought the car it the PO said it was rebuilt and bored .030 over. I havent checked to make sure he was telling the truth. I forget how many miles are on the rebuild. How many miles did it take yours to break in and not be so hot?

I'm going to do the water flow check, i'll report back soon!

Well, like I said it was years ago - maybe 10 years... but if I recall correctly, I would estimate between 500 and 2,000 miles before it stopped heating as much. Most likely it was on the lower end of that range.

 

[Edbert]

if you running 220* at 65/70 mph, and your looking to make it run cooler:
A different fan wont do anything,
A fan shroud wont do anything,
An electric fan wont do anything,

A car doesnt need a fan at 40+mph, if you're running hot you have other issues that need addressed.

Carb. may be too lean,
hose may collapse,
Bad radiator cap,
Cooling system leak (need to be able to build pressure)
You may have a clogged dirty radiator,
You may have air in your system,
waterpump may not be working properly.

your coolant/water looks really green, what mix are you running?

+1

 

[D.Hearne]

Your logic is exacltly correct and represents the way a coolant system should work. The reason your temps were higher with the 180 degree thermostat, is because the higher thermostat allows the coolant to stay in the block for a longer period of time, and reach a higher degree. Since your temp sensor is near the thermostat, you will read higher a higher temp on the guage.

Because your radiator is efficient, a lower temp thermostat will lower the temps you read on your guage because your radiator is able to cool at a faster rate then the heat that is absorbed in your block. Your system is working as it should but when a radiator is inadequate, the coolant won't cycly as it should and the thermostat will no longer regulate the temp.

The radiator I have is efficient yes, but not hardly big enough for the application. If it were large enough, the temps with the 160 T-Stat would be closer to 160 degrees. As it is, with the 160 the temps stay at about 190. With the 180 that figure is like I said about 15* higher at around 200-210. The 160 opens sooner to let the coolant cycle faster than with the 180.

 

[19stang66]

Well I just got the fan shroud today. I am going to install it now. The temp gauge is brand new, its a summit brand gauge. Is there such thing as the temp sensor being too close to the bottom of the intake manifold or being to close to something to make it read hotter than it really is? Thanks for all the great info everyone. I like learning about this stuff.

 

[mikemustang289]

The radiator I have is efficient yes, but not hardly big enough for the application. If it were large enough, the temps with the 160 T-Stat would be closer to 160 degrees. As it is, with the 160 the temps stay at about 190. With the 180 that figure is like I said about 15* higher at around 200-210. The 160 opens sooner to let the coolant cycle faster than with the 180.

I run a 180 degree thermostat. My temps never go above 180. The only time I see higher temp is after the engine shuts off. the minute I restart it the temp comes right back down.

If I were to install a 200 degree t-stat in my car, my temps on the guage would rise. This is because the t-stat will allow the coolant to stay in the block longer to reach a higher temp.

That is how is it supposed to work. But in his application, if he is running a 180 t-stat and reading 220, then it's not going to make a difference what t-stat you put in, on the highway at 3000 rpm, the temp is going to be the same. Around town and during cooler parts of the year a lower t-stat might lower temps, but in this case it wont'

If you want to lower your temps you'll need a better radiator, or stay off the freeway and avoid running 3000 rpm for long period of time.

 

[19stang66]

Well now I'm having troubles installing the fan shroud. My fan hits on the bottom of the shroud. There is plenty of space on the top of the shroud to the fan but there is no space between the bottom of the shroud and the fan. What gives? The bolt holes on the shroud and brackets are elongated and are at their lowest point. Is the fan I have to big for the stock shroud?

 

[Cobain03]

take the 7 bladed fan off of there and put in a 5 bladed steel fan (not a flex fan).

im putting new radiator shroud and the above mentioned fan and seeing how it goes.

i cruise at abuot 165 170 but when i hit stoplights on a hot day i push 190 200, seen as high as 215 and it was goin crazy on me

 

[Edbert]

If you are running hot at speeds over 45mph then whatever the problem is it is NOT the fan or the shroud. I'm not the first one to say that but it keeps getting ignored.

 

[Cobain03]

to save all the what ifs, i say go ahead and buy a new radiator. its more then likely cheaper to have it dipped and better anyways. get a nice 3 core stock rad. and slap her in.

 

[19stang66]

If you are running hot at speeds over 45mph then whatever the problem is it is NOT the fan or the shroud. I'm not the first one to say that but it keeps getting ignored.

Ok ok, If this shroud doesnt help any I am taking my car to a radiator shop that my grandpa recommended. He had them recore his 4 core radiator for his 69 Vette. I'll have them check her out since they deal with this stuff everyday. Do you think it'd be cheaper to get a recore or get a new stock 3 core?

I also found out my fan is crap, it wobbles when I start it and is hitting the shroud.

 

[grego37]

nevermind the shroud for now.
nevermind the fan for now.

You are on the right path by looking into the radiator.
If you're not worried about correct radiator for the car (show car, correct etc...)
Then get the biggest crossflow radiator you can fit in there.
If you cant afford an aluminum one, the others will work nearly as well.
should solve all of your problems.

When you are running too hot at idle, stop light to stop light, or cruising below 30 mph, THEN focus on your fan and shroud

good luck

 

[Cobain03]

i've never heard of recoring. so dunno whats thats all about.

 

[19stang66]

My Gramps kept saying that they dip it in acid to clean out all the crap in the cores. They must do something else to the cores to make them like new, hence "recored" If I get a new radiator, would a stock 3 core work fine from NPD? So I dont have to cut new holes or move my battery to the trunk.

 

[grego37]

If you're going to spend the money for new one, look into a crossflow style , It will run cooler than a downflow.

 

[mikemustang289]

Recorring involves removing the top of the radiator, since it is copper it is soldered together. After the top is off the core is cleaned and each row will get a rod shoved down it to push out all of the crap that is trapped and clogging the core.

This may cost anywhere from $50-75. That should help bring the temps down some but my car still ran hot with a stock NEW aftermarket 2 row radiator which I paid $130 for

My aluminum radiator was $150 from summit, made by Northern and it is a crossflow universal radiator. A universal rad will not be much more but you will have to mount it yourself. I will post pics of mine when I get a chance.

 

[hungrymonkey]

I run between 200 at idle, and 180 at driving speed. With an oil pressure of 30-60 depending on temp and idle speed.

This is with a fresh rebuild on a .060 351W block. Never had an overheating problem. with a larger flex fan.

 

[67topless]

I run between 200 at idle, and 180 at driving speed. With an oil pressure of 30-60 depending on temp and idle speed.

This is with a fresh rebuild on a .060 351W block. Never had an overheating problem. with a larger flex fan.

I am almost exactly as above for temp and oil pressure... I've got a 289 .030 with less than 3k on a rebuild and an aluminum Griffin radiator and no fan shroud. Never gets above 210 in the summer sitting at a stop light but normally runs around 185 - 195. I also have a bottle of water whetter (sp?) to cool things down a bit.

Scott

 

[MustangMatt1966]

I am almost exactly as above for temp and oil pressure... I've got a 289 .030 with less than 3k on a rebuild and an aluminum Griffin radiator and no fan shroud. Never gets above 210 in the summer sitting at a stop light but normally runs around 185 - 195. I also have a bottle of water whetter (sp?) to cool things down a bit.

Scott

whats water wetter? can you explain? is it the stuff you add to your radiator mixture that helps cool things?

 

[67topless]

whats water wetter? can you explain? is it the stuff you add to your radiator mixture that helps cool things?

Check it out here on Summit:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RED-80204&N=115&autoview=sku

"Wetter water for better cooling.
Red Line Water Wetter provides corrosion and rust protection for modern aluminum and cast iron cooling systems. This unique additive reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30 degrees F. It can be used in plain water to provide much better heat transfer properties and protection than glycol-based antifreeze, or added to new or used antifreeze to fortify inhibitors and reduce foaming."