Progress Thread 1985 Gt I Finally Have A T Top Car.

Short belt installed, vacuum leak is fixed ( I think ) however my harbor freight
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one man brake bleeding kit left the brakes in non useable form. I will have a buddy come by and we will do them the old fashioned way. Long way to go as far as the underhood, tis still a mess boys.
 
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You dont need to impress us. Clean it up to where you can stand it, but I wouldnt get anal and start a snowball. Next thing you know you are hiding wires, then relocating things, then pulling the engine to smooth the bay, then building the engine while its out... Wait, who am I kidding, it looks like sht, you better get to work on it! ;)
 
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Short belt installed, vacuum leak is fixed ( I think ) however my harbor freight
IMG_1782.JPG
one man brake bleeding kit left the brakes in non useable form. I will have a buddy come by and we will do them the old fashioned way.
Long way to go as far as the underhood, tis still a mess boys.
I don't know what you're talkin' about....to some people that's "done".
 
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Been messing with the car and I am not happy with the brake pedal. I have bleed the system 3 times and each time is seems to be getting better. I haven't had this much trouble with what I assume is still air in the system before. I just want to check I am not missing anything.

New Master
Stock booster ( don't think this is it because I would assume the brakes would be really firm with the undersized booster)
New soft lines
New calipers
gutted stock prop valve
manual prop valve installed.


So besides just keep bleeding the system over and over how should I have the manual prop valve set for a starting point?
 
No it is about in the middle, so are you suggesting open it all the way while bleeding? Thanks for the info!
Yes, simply to make sure you're pushing all the fluid you can through it to insure you get all the air out of the whole system. Once the system is bled then adjust it to where you want it. I caught hell bleeding my system and it took me a while to finally get it right but I think one of the problems was that I didn't have the adj prop valve all the way open. Actually it still didn't bleed good enough until my buddy that works at Goodyear put it on their automatic bleeder for me. After that everything was good.
 
Air in the lines can be a pia, really bad when replacing all the stuff you mention, if you don't have access to a power bleeder try driving it around a bit and using the brakes alot to get the fluid moving around then bleed them again with the prop valve open.
 
i have done the 5 lug, 4 wheel disc setup about 8 times. I can tell you, the pedal feels like crap because of your stock booster. Put on a 93 cobra booster, they are less than $100, not that bad to install and you will feel a HUGE difference in the way the pedal feels. Trust me.

Chris
 
So lesson learned.

I didnt realize the 99+ brakes has different pads for inside and outside... SO I have 2 outside pads on the drivers side ( it worked fine ) and 2 inside pads on the passenger side( these acted like a seized pistons in the caliper caliper, brakes would not release, massive brake drag )

This was all due to 2 little raised bumps ( nubs ) on the pads. So long story short the pads with the bump go on the inside and the ones without go on the outside of the caliper.

Brake pedal is better and nearly acceptable, I am going to need to upgrade the booster this winter.
 
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