1995 mustang overheating BAD!!

Tw807b

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Feb 17, 2020
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I think I found the issue, the distributor was not bolted down and I think it shifted and threw the timing off, so once I get the timing set I will update you, thanks everyone
 
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Tw807b

Member
Feb 17, 2020
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1
13
31
Deltona FL
I think I found the issue, the distributor was not bolted down and I think it shifted and threw the timing off, so once I get the timing set I will update you, thanks everyone
Ok folks here is an update, bought a timing light checked the time and it’s 10 degrees TDC, headers still glowing red. So now not sure
 

KRUISR

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Apr 16, 2015
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Re-reading this thread I have a thought. Since back pressure is the main cause for glowing headers, try disconnecting exhaust. Since cats are punched, disconnect in front of mufflers. Start car and idle to see if headers glow like pictured (I think you said the pic was after idling for a few minutes).

Could also disconnect/remove H-pipe and check with only open headers. If not glowing, you may have just found the source of your issue.
 
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Tw807b

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so some minor updates, looks like i don't have a true 347, the crank is stock from the 95 and so is the harmonic balancer, so with the exception of the pistons being bored .30 over and the heads being Windsor jr 185cc cast iron heads everything else is pretty much stock that came from the 1995 originally, so im sure something here somewhere is messed up causing the over heating issue. and btw when i turn my ac own full heat full blast it just comes out the defrost vents and just blows hot air. my ac lines have pin holes in them so all the Freon all leaks out. also if anyone is in the deltona/ orlando area and wants to help me out and look at it let me know.
 

02 281 GT

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so some minor updates, looks like i don't have a true 347, the crank is stock from the 95 and so is the harmonic balancer, so with the exception of the pistons being bored .30 over and the heads being Windsor jr 185cc cast iron heads everything else is pretty much stock that came from the 1995 originally, so im sure something here somewhere is messed up causing the over heating issue. and btw when i turn my ac own full heat full blast it just comes out the defrost vents and just blows hot air. my ac lines have pin holes in them so all the Freon all leaks out. also if anyone is in the deltona/ orlando area and wants to help me out and look at it let me know.
You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. If there is a vacuum leak, the only vent mode that will work is the defrost. I had the same thing happen in my '95. There was a leak around the firewall mounted vacuum tree.
 

Tw807b

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Feb 17, 2020
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Deltona FL
You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. If there is a vacuum leak, the only vent mode that will work is the defrost. I had the same thing happen in my '95. There was a leak around the firewall mounted vacuum tree.
I've sprayed carb cleaner on every single inch of the engine/engine bay firewall, nothing has caused the rpm's to go up or rev when i have done this, if its a leak somewhere i cant find it.
 

KRUISR

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For clarity purposes I have a couple questions:

- When you ran the heater, did you select the panel setting (not just defrost)? If you selected other positions and the system did not change, you have a vacuum leak or the check valve is broken (located on pass. side firewall just before vac line goes through firewall). Should look something like this but likely has a mount bracket.
1582652264140.png

- When you ran heater, did engine temp come down at all? Did headers glow again?

- Based on not necessarily having all the information on the motor, I would not trust the information that the cats are punched (unless you did them yourself). I would disconnect the H-pipe at header discharge and run at idle with open headers. If they do not glow, recheck you cats, they are likely blocked somehow.
 

Tw807b

Member
Feb 17, 2020
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Deltona FL
For clarity purposes I have a couple questions:

- When you ran the heater, did you select the panel setting (not just defrost)? If you selected other positions and the system did not change, you have a vacuum leak or the check valve is broken (located on pass. side firewall just before vac line goes through firewall). Should look something like this but likely has a mount bracket.
1582652264140.png

- When you ran heater, did engine temp come down at all? Did headers glow again?

- Based on not necessarily having all the information on the motor, I would not trust the information that the cats are punched (unless you did them yourself). I would disconnect the H-pipe at header discharge and run at idle with open headers. If they do not glow, recheck you cats, they are likely blocked somehow.
i know for a fact cats are punched my step dad did them for a fact and i verified with him, doesnt matter what setting i have the air on it comes out of the defroster
 

VibrantRedGT

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Timing isn't your hot / glowing issue but glad you fixed it possibly moving. The heat is stuck in your head / headers which is causing the car to overheat. I hope you did at least a 50/50 mix at this point and your thermostat is actually opening. Why is the heat being trapped in the header is the question? You say exhaust is coming out of the tailpipes? Is it a lot? Does the car sound clogged when you rev it?

The reason your A/C comes from your defroster vents is because the vacuum line for the front vents hose is probably rotted. Spraying cleaners won't find it. Drivers side into the vacuum tree. May have to take your firewall and cowl plastic trim off to see it. If you do a search on here there are pictures of it. Every 94-95 has had this issue at some point.
 
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‘95 Mustang has reverse flow cooling system. If you have an ‘85 engine I’m not sure about that year but maybe your heads, head gaskets are blocking cooling passages. If someone knows more about this please chime in.