78 mustang
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As long as the trans has fluid that's fine. Do not hold the clutch in the entire time. That is hard on the throw out bearing.
You will probably lose some fluid from the tailshaft. Shouldn't be much but have a drain pan ready and keep an eye on it if running for an extended period.
Most transmissions will spin the output shaft some without a driveshaft, even in neutral. It wont be under power but If you have a yoke or trans plug you can install it. Just keep an eye on it in case the yoke works itself out. If using a plug make sure it is not tight against the output shaft. You dont want a dry plug spinning against your seal.
You will probably lose some fluid from the tailshaft. Shouldn't be much but have a drain pan ready and keep an eye on it if running for an extended period.
Most transmissions will spin the output shaft some without a driveshaft, even in neutral. It wont be under power but If you have a yoke or trans plug you can install it. Just keep an eye on it in case the yoke works itself out. If using a plug make sure it is not tight against the output shaft. You dont want a dry plug spinning against your seal.
You can run it without the cable. Even if it's in gear it will just sling more fluid out the tailshaft. Keep her in neutral and you will be fine.
As far as starters go Napa carries one for us. Mine is a hodgepodge of parts but uses the rad4 bell and a new flywheel from modern driveline. I picked up the napa starter and it works fine. They only have one listing for auto or manual.
As far as starters go Napa carries one for us. Mine is a hodgepodge of parts but uses the rad4 bell and a new flywheel from modern driveline. I picked up the napa starter and it works fine. They only have one listing for auto or manual.
can someone also tell me if the high pressure power steering line where is connect to the pump.is it suppose to be moveable. The thread in fitting is snug,not over tightened. Cant remember if the old one i took off was like that.is it suppose to be able to swivel. thanks guys for helping me with all these questions. Like old John Wayne said "life is tough, but its tougher when your stupid"
Maybe someone else can pipe in but I don't think I used a bunch of PS fluid. I have done this 3 times past 2 years and cannot remember exactly. I would guess 2 qts should do it. Probably a good idea to have an extra qt though. I am assuming you have a flat tappet engine and need to do engine break in. You do not want to stop mid way if you can avoid it.
Purge the ps before starting the car. Jack up the front end. Fill ps reservoir. Turn steering wheel full left and full right several times. If done slowly you should not make a mess. This should force some air from ps. Check the reservoir a couple times as we do not want it to run dry. This will not get all the air out but it will help.
If your doing engine break in make sure to keep up on ps fluid level. You may not hear it whine with engine turning 2,000 rpm but it being low too long can hurt it. Our pumps are known for being noisey and we want to prevent that as much as possible. A ps filter is a good idea as well. They are cheap and you just cut the return line and install it inline. The filter will help keep garbage out of the pump and reduce whine. Otoh you may have to clean it periodically but anything caught by it is not floating around in your ps system.
As soon as the engine is running you need to turn steering wheel full right and left a few more times and maintain fluid level.
The high side should swivel. As long as the o ring is in good condition you should be fine.
If this is initial engine break in get supplies for another oil change. You should change it once break in is done. Preferably while oil is still warm. Then change it again in 500 miles. Be leery of using additives in a flat tappet engine to make the oil right. Just use the correct oil from the beginning.
Purge the ps before starting the car. Jack up the front end. Fill ps reservoir. Turn steering wheel full left and full right several times. If done slowly you should not make a mess. This should force some air from ps. Check the reservoir a couple times as we do not want it to run dry. This will not get all the air out but it will help.
If your doing engine break in make sure to keep up on ps fluid level. You may not hear it whine with engine turning 2,000 rpm but it being low too long can hurt it. Our pumps are known for being noisey and we want to prevent that as much as possible. A ps filter is a good idea as well. They are cheap and you just cut the return line and install it inline. The filter will help keep garbage out of the pump and reduce whine. Otoh you may have to clean it periodically but anything caught by it is not floating around in your ps system.
As soon as the engine is running you need to turn steering wheel full right and left a few more times and maintain fluid level.
The high side should swivel. As long as the o ring is in good condition you should be fine.
If this is initial engine break in get supplies for another oil change. You should change it once break in is done. Preferably while oil is still warm. Then change it again in 500 miles. Be leery of using additives in a flat tappet engine to make the oil right. Just use the correct oil from the beginning.
progress report has anyone had this problem. When i turned the key ,the starter sticks on. I noticed the ignition switch seems to be sticky,doesnt spring back from start position to run.havent done it yet, wanted to ask first .should i sprayed some lub in around it or just replace it.if so how hard is it to do and can the right ignition switch be ordered for these cars.thanks
Is it the solenoid? Wiring? Usually if it's the switch it stops cranking once you turn back to run. I have seen them fail this way but this is usually a starter, solenoid or wiring issue in my experience.
On my t top car the tumbler or switch is stiff and I have to help rotate it back to run. The Mach I springs back on it's own. Irony is Mach I has 100k + miles and T top has 40k. Both function fine. You can lube the tumbler but I would use something made for locks. One of graphite products is good. Double check any de icer products as some are just alcohol and dont lubricate. Although if it's the switch that is stiff this will not help.
Do you have a multimeter or test light? Check the s wire at the solenoid. Disconnect it at solenoid and test the wire again. This will tell us which side of the solenoid to suspect.
Double check wiring. Double check parts. Even new parts. All new means is Never Ever Worked.
Make sure you don't have anything extra on s terminal.
On my t top car the tumbler or switch is stiff and I have to help rotate it back to run. The Mach I springs back on it's own. Irony is Mach I has 100k + miles and T top has 40k. Both function fine. You can lube the tumbler but I would use something made for locks. One of graphite products is good. Double check any de icer products as some are just alcohol and dont lubricate. Although if it's the switch that is stiff this will not help.
Do you have a multimeter or test light? Check the s wire at the solenoid. Disconnect it at solenoid and test the wire again. This will tell us which side of the solenoid to suspect.
Double check wiring. Double check parts. Even new parts. All new means is Never Ever Worked.
Make sure you don't have anything extra on s terminal.
And, to add to that, the switch is easy to replace if you have the key. Here's a thread that can help you right here on Stangnet 
:
www.stangnet.com
:how to change the ignition on a mustang I just want to know I've been looking around and I can't find it for a specific year and Mom for a mustang II
How do you change out the locks not just the locks but the ignition how do you change the ignition out on the mustang 2 I just want to know I can't find the key pin I've been wondering if I have to take out a screw from the steering column G in the screwdriver up in there and push pin why the...
www.stangnet.com
i put a new solenoid on.i took the wire off the s terminal that comes from the switch and used a test light. When i turn the key the test light comes on, and when i let go of the ignition switch the test light stays on. so when i turn the key back to what must be the run position my test light goes out.so what makes the ignition switch go to the run position. Is there a spring Menckenism in it,or is the spring in the switch down on the Colum where that connecting rod goes to.I dont want to have to turn it back to run all the time.think i will order a new ignition,proberly wore out.
You can get it, I replaced mine a few years ago. It's a standard part for Fords of that era.
The horn button? It is held on via friction. Just pull it towards you. I don't remember if our steering wheels are keyed. So be sure you reinstall it the same position.
If I am remembering correctly you do not have to remove steering wheel to do ignition switch. It only needs to come off if your replacing the tumbler. You drop the whole column. No need to remove column just remove the 2 large bolts on the brake pedal bracket and it drops enough to get to the switch which is mounted on top of the column about 2 feet away from the steering wheel. There is a rod that runs from tumbler to the switch.
If I am remembering correctly you do not have to remove steering wheel to do ignition switch. It only needs to come off if your replacing the tumbler. You drop the whole column. No need to remove column just remove the 2 large bolts on the brake pedal bracket and it drops enough to get to the switch which is mounted on top of the column about 2 feet away from the steering wheel. There is a rod that runs from tumbler to the switch.
I believe he is replacing the lock cylinder just going from this post:
But if you're replacing the actual switch you'll want to follow @IICrew 's post.
I was thinking you were replacing the switch. It looks as though you are replacing the tumbler.
The tumbler only has a light spring to return from start position. If the switch is bad it may be hanging up enough to override the fairly weak tumbler spring. It looks like you removed the tumbler? If so operate it. Going through the positions it should return from start to run on its own. If it doesn't replace it. If it appears to work when removed then the switch is most likely the problem.
The tumbler only has a light spring to return from start position. If the switch is bad it may be hanging up enough to override the fairly weak tumbler spring. It looks like you removed the tumbler? If so operate it. Going through the positions it should return from start to run on its own. If it doesn't replace it. If it appears to work when removed then the switch is most likely the problem.
sorry yes the tumbler,ya after i took it out and tried it in my hand it doesnt spring back.i figured being i took the steering wheel off,it would be a good time to restore it.iam getting the inner metal part to clean up ,but the leather part of the steering wheel isnt as black as it once was.what could i use to darken it up again.its not bad but noticable.thanks
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