A big bore 351- based 427 is a dream engine of mine... But that sheet ain't cheap.
7L Windsor tho
7L Windsor tho
Build Thread '83 T-top Coupe - Welding Holes in My Rear
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Woody doesn't list stock block stuff anymore because the core supply these days is
. 351 blocks have been out of production since 97, 302s since 01, and the recyclers I would bet aren't gentle.Not just a sbf problem either, the other guys older v8's have the same problem.
He does offer a build it yourself kit though that has everything but the block, and I think he still does stock blocks ad long as the customer supplies the core.
Definitely ain't cheap, I've got I think close to 11k in mine, and it's not even a full long block.
It's always the voice of reason that over rules the desire to spend stupid money.
An Eagle forged 408 recip assy that will fit into any garden variety stock block comes complete w/ everything pictured for 1929.00
Or, when talking naturally aspirated,...The cast crank/ forged piston/I beam rod version is 1259.00. (My favorite)
A N/A 408 will be stupid reliable, make every bit of 500/500 w/ the right heads and cam, be capable of on the edge of block integrity 750 HP.
Either way they're a balanced assy, so the balance comes off of the machine bill. The rods are included so the rebuild of the rods come off of the bill as well. New crank,..no need to turn the old one. The only machine bill remaining is the cleaning, the bore and hone, and decking.
With the bottom option, you'd have the whole short block sitting there done for 2k.
An Eagle forged 408 recip assy that will fit into any garden variety stock block comes complete w/ everything pictured for 1929.00
Or, when talking naturally aspirated,...The cast crank/ forged piston/I beam rod version is 1259.00. (My favorite)
A N/A 408 will be stupid reliable, make every bit of 500/500 w/ the right heads and cam, be capable of on the edge of block integrity 750 HP.
Either way they're a balanced assy, so the balance comes off of the machine bill. The rods are included so the rebuild of the rods come off of the bill as well. New crank,..no need to turn the old one. The only machine bill remaining is the cleaning, the bore and hone, and decking.
With the bottom option, you'd have the whole short block sitting there done for 2k.
Depends on money right now. Maybe work is picking back up now
.I will buy the necessary parts first, SFC's, floor pan, etc....
Hey guys, didn't mean to be short with y'all. I was between coats on a side job I was doing tonight.
I'll always whore my pictures given the chance, so I don't mind showing them again.
As for it coming home, ideally it'll still be about three months. I say "ideally" with the thought in mind that work is finally picking up again.
I'll have the need for about a thousand dollars in parts that I will immediately be putting on the car upon arrival in my garage. When I have those parts, the car comes home.
Over the weekend I got Doby's rearend back under her. I have figured out a way to bolt on a couple chunks of 4x4 so the body can rest on them. Meaning I can move it. Tomorrow I'm going to see how much more it is for a storage unit about twice the size of what I currently have.
I just can't store Doby at my friends. It would be under a shelter, but I would rather it be protected from all of the elements.
It just kills me that you are painting the car this way. I thought that a metallic paint w/all the variables between lot numbers, mixing intervals, temperature and humidity, would be all kinds of "no-no" when it comes to painting all of these parts separate over this great an interval.
Tell us Great OZ of paint....how are you not worried yourself?
I have enough paint already mixed to spray the entire vehicle.
The temperature would be a problem if I were to shoot at widely seperate temps. Such as 75 and then 100. Five degrees or so won't have any effect.
Humidity would be relevant for the amount of time I take between coats to allow the paint to dry. With a booth it's not such an issue. The constant air flow will wick away the solvents fairly quick even on damp days. I just don't shoot the next coat until the previous is dry.
So the big issue would be the paint. Non issue for me though.
At most if I see a difference between panels it will be do to orange peel differences. Buff that problem away.
Another problem, of course, could come from UV fading, the parts are in nice dark dry storage. Think I'm ok there.
I believe I'll be good, we'll see. Hopefully I'm right.
Accufab overnighted me the correct o-ring along with enough stickers to get my HP up north of @TOOLOW91 , lol
Sorry... Just a random quote stuck in the queue that I forgot to use.
You should catalog those in-case of an un-planned sale.
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