CT Material here
- Jul 7, 2005
Part collection is growing...
Thank you Mike!It certainly will increase the amount of assist. Some people, however, do enjoy the firmer feel of Sn95-style brakes with the fox booster. I am not one of them.
Really it's subjective. It will just make the brakes feel like modern cars, which some might argue are a tad overboosted.
Why don’t you just have them sleeve the cylinder on the existing block? Any competent machine shop should be able to do that, and done properly, it ain’t going nowhere. ( the sleeve sits on a step at the bottom of the bore, and the head keeps it there).Still on the hunt for another block, but it seems there are a couple 5.0's in explorers pulll-a-part. Now just need the weather to work with me so I can get over there to get one of them pulled. This will work out since I was looking at some GT40P heads and intake for another build that I am gathering parts for as well.
I also got my cobra brake booster in from Rockauto, so its currently getting painted while its still pretty outside.
Mike, I did talk to the machine shop about sleeving that cylinder, and he said that he could and would be find if I was NA. But after I told him that I am going to be boosting the engine with a turbo with the goal of beating the crap out of this engine on a road course he said he personally would get a new block. I am already building the engine that's going to be on the "limits" of the stock block, so I didn't think it would be a smart idea to add more possible failure points or weaken it even more.Why don’t you just have them sleeve the cylinder on the existing block? Any competent machine shop should be able to do that, and done properly, it ain’t going nowhere. ( the sleeve sits on a step at the bottom of the bore, and the head keeps it there).
The old Monster engine had all six cylinders sleeved. Had I not chosen a shop that employed Simians, that engine would still be in the car. My engine problems ( oil consumption/blow by) and ultimate failure ( Deck cracking between the sleeves) all resulted when the original sleeves were incorrectly finished. The bores weren’t properly honed, there was too much taper at the bottom resulting in insufficient clearance for the pistons, and two cylinders had gouges from the boring process that got missed. That caused the blow by, and damaged the pistons ( In hindsight I shoulda made them replace them) After taking that engine back apart, they had to resleeve all six holes, but they used a super thick wall sleeve that left a very narrow margin between the cylinders, and that ultimately brought the engine to its doom.
(The fact that I was beating on an engine that was making probably 2.5-3 times the power it was originally intended to might have had something to do with that.)
You, on the other hand, wont be doing all the cylinders.
You could go through all of the hassle getting another old assed engine, only to find the same situation that you currently have now. Talk to your machine shop and see what they tell you.
I also went ahead and purchased the offset bushings from S&S Engineering and a set of XTS Brake Calipers for replacing the current front brake setup. I always wanted 4 piston calipers on this build from the beginning with the 14" rotors. Im thinking that since Im still using the stock master cylinder I will need to change it to a 94-95 Mustang GT 1 1/16" bore due to the increased calipers @Mustang5L5
I have considered going to the larger Taurus rear calipers, but are unsure as you are in the effects of the master cylinder sizing that would be needed due to the large increase is caliper piston sizing. The difference in caliper piston size going from the 38mm to 43mm is a 28% increase in piston size.With the 14" front setup, you might want to also consider the taurus 43mm rear calipers to help balance out brake bias.
The only question is regarding MC selection with that setup. WIth the XTS/38mm rear calipers, i would go with the 1 1/16" bore MC. WIth the 43mm calipers, unsure if that MC is adequate or if a 1 1/8" MC will be required.