Nitrous Install:
Step 1: Figure out what I have and what I need.
When I bought the car back from Mark, he asked if I wanted to buy his nitrous kit. I don't think he implied that it was a complete kit, and he only asked $150 for it. I pulled out the cash, and I really didn't even bother to inspect it. I just figured it'd be a good start towards being able to put nitrous in the car. Subsequently, I read a thread that suggested the best way to inject nitrous was with a plate between the upper and lower intake, so I looked around and found the right plate near me for $50 (was something like $500 new). I went out and grabbed it the next day. Finally, I want to remain conservative so I already knew I'd want a WOT switch, Hobbes (fuel pressure) switch, Window (RPM) Switch, and of course an main system-arming switch.
Here's what I currently have:
What I have:
- Nitrous Bottle (10 lbs)
- Bottle Mounts (These little plastic ones are safe in an accident?)
- Hobbes Switch
- WOT & Window Switch
- Arming Switch
- Relay
- Nitrous solenoids x2
- GT40 intake nitrous plate
- Nitrous lines braided steel
- vacuum hose and couple fittings
- manual WOT switch (not labeled)
What I may or may not need (will be edited as I learn & figure this out):
- Fuel solenoids (If I want a wet kit)
- Braided steel fuel lines
- Appropriate jets for fuel and nitrous
- appropriate wiring
- GT40 intake gaskets
- Probably a different Hobbes Switch (dry kit is supposed to vastly increase fuel pressure, whereas wet kit should keep FP @ base pressure of ~40psi, right?)
- GT Light/fog-light switch (Fog light switch will serve as my main nitrous arming switch)
- bottle heater/blanket?
- electronic bottle opener (necessary?)
- timing retard box?
- bottle pressure gauge
Goal:
- I'd like a ~150-200 shot range. Don't wanna blow the motor and would like to keep the power block-safe (max 500hp).
- Not dead-set on a wet kit, but am under the impression this is safer for the fuel system, as it doesn't require high fuel pressure (overtaxed 30 lbs injectors & old fuel pump) as the primary driver of fuel delivery. Also, since fuel pressure can stay at base pressure, I won't need to swap a high-pressure pump for the current old-school Walbro 255 LPH pump & the hobbes switch can be set just below the base FP setting without worrying about the variable dry-kit FPs.
So, I'd appreciate feedback from any of you nitrous guys, but here's my starting point to do research from.
Step 1: Figure out what I have and what I need.
When I bought the car back from Mark, he asked if I wanted to buy his nitrous kit. I don't think he implied that it was a complete kit, and he only asked $150 for it. I pulled out the cash, and I really didn't even bother to inspect it. I just figured it'd be a good start towards being able to put nitrous in the car. Subsequently, I read a thread that suggested the best way to inject nitrous was with a plate between the upper and lower intake, so I looked around and found the right plate near me for $50 (was something like $500 new). I went out and grabbed it the next day. Finally, I want to remain conservative so I already knew I'd want a WOT switch, Hobbes (fuel pressure) switch, Window (RPM) Switch, and of course an main system-arming switch.
Here's what I currently have:
What I have:
- Nitrous Bottle (10 lbs)
- Bottle Mounts (These little plastic ones are safe in an accident?)
- Hobbes Switch
- WOT & Window Switch
- Arming Switch
- Relay
- Nitrous solenoids x2
- GT40 intake nitrous plate
- Nitrous lines braided steel
- vacuum hose and couple fittings
- manual WOT switch (not labeled)
What I may or may not need (will be edited as I learn & figure this out):
- Fuel solenoids (If I want a wet kit)
- Braided steel fuel lines
- Appropriate jets for fuel and nitrous
- appropriate wiring
- GT40 intake gaskets
- Probably a different Hobbes Switch (dry kit is supposed to vastly increase fuel pressure, whereas wet kit should keep FP @ base pressure of ~40psi, right?)
- GT Light/fog-light switch (Fog light switch will serve as my main nitrous arming switch)
- bottle heater/blanket?
- electronic bottle opener (necessary?)
- timing retard box?
- bottle pressure gauge
Goal:
- I'd like a ~150-200 shot range. Don't wanna blow the motor and would like to keep the power block-safe (max 500hp).
- Not dead-set on a wet kit, but am under the impression this is safer for the fuel system, as it doesn't require high fuel pressure (overtaxed 30 lbs injectors & old fuel pump) as the primary driver of fuel delivery. Also, since fuel pressure can stay at base pressure, I won't need to swap a high-pressure pump for the current old-school Walbro 255 LPH pump & the hobbes switch can be set just below the base FP setting without worrying about the variable dry-kit FPs.
So, I'd appreciate feedback from any of you nitrous guys, but here's my starting point to do research from.
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