Drivetrain Finding Tdc? / Identify Stock Cam

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 5point0stang88, Sep 5, 2013.

  1. The cam I took out, was supposedly advanced as the crank gear was on the key way at the advanced mark.
    So of course when I installed my Tfs1 cam, it's in advanced mark.
    (I do not have a degree wheel nor do I know how to use one, I'm terrible at math)
    I also didn't have a balancer pointer, but have a new one coming in the mail tomorrow so I can see what mark it lines up with.

    I also will be getting a piston stop since the heads are on to get it close to tdc.
    Being able to rotate the engine over, I shouldn't be having ptv issue? Since I have 1.72 rr installed, I would however like to put the cam at dot to dot position.
    When cam dot and crank key way lined up, cyl 1 both lifters on base lobe (comp stroke?) So this should be tdc right?

    Also can some one show me a stock cam and can verify this is indeed stock by its markings? da9e2uja.jpg zarypeha.jpg pe6aqy6y.jpg 6usymyre.jpg

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  2. A few things:

    First, I would ditch the gear driven timing set and grab a standard double roller timing chain setup.
    Second, just because you can rotate the motor over does not mean that you will not have a ptv problem, only way to verify the clearances is to check them
    Third, I would not advance the cam timing with the gear set. IMHO this needs to go in straight up
    Fourth, While dot to dot is technically TDC, the most accurate way to find TDC is with a piston stop
  3. I have new the Comp Cams Magnum double chain roller and was thinking about using it.

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  4. huba3uve.jpg 8udyqagy.jpg

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  5. X2 in ditching the gear drive- noisy as hell and robs HP. You should really degree the cam, but if you can't then install it straight up dot to dot. Make sure you put loctite on the necessary bolts- cam thrust bearing.,
  6. looks purty!
  7. Thanks!
    Also I regret to report that the torque wrench I had before, failed me and snapped the head of one of the cam thrust bearing bolts so I just have one.

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  8. a4uge3ev.jpg ubezu8a2.jpg

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  9. I highly recommend covering up your exposed engine before all kinds of unwanted material find its way into your motor. For the lifter valley, a cut op piece of cardboard or large rag works. Replace the valve covers so nothing falls down a hole. Tape over the intake openings in the heads with painting/masking tape.

    You get the idea... anything open needs to be covered.
  10. Thanks I do use a big towel just for that when I'm not working in there 9epu7yse.jpg
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  11. If it were ME, I'd still have the intake ports covered at least even when you are working, until you are ready to drop the intake on the heads. All it takes is one piece of something to fall in there and you are pulling a head. Make sure you use a shop vac in the lifter valley and around the intake ports before you button it up.

    Also... your pan is wide open...
  12. True I didn't think about all the ports and having to remove the head, big thanks, I used prior compressed air and towel to get all the debris out. I will be changing the oil of course before I start it. This was a heads cam intake swap and other goodies.

    Parts list
    Crane Cams 1.72 roller rockers
    Gt40p heads
    Tfs1 cam
    Hardened stock length pushrods
    Crane beehive springs
    Gt40 intake
    Mac long tubes
    Mac Prochamber
    Spintech Super Pro Streets dumped
    Energy suspension tranny and engine mounts
    ARP block to mount bolts
    Comp cam double chain roller and sprocket
    ARP head bolt and stud
    Ford racing gasket kit
    90 degree spark cable kit

    Already have installed are
    Underdrive pulley kit
    Bypass smog
    Electric fan
    Hotchkis CC plates
    BBK Powerplus 70 mm throttle body
    70 mm MAF conversion
    130 amp alternator
    Dual friction clutch
    Rebuilt t5
    Weld in sub frame connectors

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  13. Masking tape does wonders covering up the ports. You'll need to drill and extract the broken can thrust bolt you have to have that bolted in place properly

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  14. I was hoping not to do that, that I could get by. I do have an extraction kit, just need to borrow a drill since I took mine back

    And thanks for the link, the stock length Ford racing ones, done are just a tiny bit short and I can't get the lash out. So I will get the longer ones and shim from that site

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  15. Many camshafts have advance already built into the profile of the grind. Check the specific cam profiles and include them in the decision of where you put the key.
  16. I know the stock cam you're dot-to-dot when the key-way on the crank is at 12 o'clock, and the dowel pin on the camshaft is at 6 o'clock.
  17. Yes that's why I didn't really want to install it in advanced position, so I did put it in that dot to dot position. It already has advanced 4 degrees
    And holy wow lol I only have a mild 302 lol if I spent any money like that I better get a belt drive hehe

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  18. Lol.

    I messed up my stock heads pretty good doing that chain. It doesn't have any dots on it or come with instructions. I guess they figure if you're gonna spend that much on a timing chain you know what you're doing?.... I still had my rockers on so there was spring pressure on the cam and it must have rotated once I took the old sprocket off.... It was pretty bad once I started it.