Ok, I have removed all four of the bolts and the Throttle Body and EGR Spacer. I cannot for the life of me get the f@#$in thing off. Is this normal or did the guy before me put Loctite or something like that? I have banged it with a rubber mallet and pried it and it will move horizontally about 1/2" but never upward off of the lower. Any suggestions?
Ford Explorer Upper Intake Stuck
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ThePumpkin
New Member
ShortThrow50
Member
you mention that you cant pry or bang the intake off and then you mention about the possibility of loctite being on. Well thats your problem then dude. Since loctite goes on bolts, then that must mean you still have bolts on. You have to remove all the bolts before you can remove the intake
bubba-dough
Active Member
capri debris
Member
I bet the two bolts you missed are the ones under the top cover on the intake. If you have been beating on the upper to get it loose with those two bolts still tight, you have probably really messed things up.
bubba-dough
Active Member
ShortThrow50
Member
well if you have all the bolts out and it still wont budge, then ill bet the previous guy used silicone instaed of a gasket. Use a block of wood and a crow bar to pop it loose. Put the wood on the valve cover.
bubba-dough
Active Member
capri debris
Member
Isn't there a factory brace that bolts to the back of the driver side head and to the back of the intake? I'd check to see if that's what's holding you up... just make sure you have all six bolts out.
ThePumpkin
New Member
I would say there are bolts still on it since you can move it side to side and not vertically.
Does the front swing? then the problem is in the back... if the back swings, the bolt is in the front. if it swivels the bolt is near the center.
Hope that helps a bit. Along with Bubba-dough's diagram, you should be fine.
Does the front swing? then the problem is in the back... if the back swings, the bolt is in the front. if it swivels the bolt is near the center.
Hope that helps a bit. Along with Bubba-dough's diagram, you should be fine.
jhonda
Member
There is a brace or bracket on the back of the intake you need to take loose its kind of a pain and doesn't need to go back.
Duncan McDougal
Active Member
Bobafett123
New Member
Nice diagram ! where did you find this and do they also have one for the lowwer and for a Cobra intake ?? I just bought a 93 Cobra intake and would love to have some detail diagrams for the intall !
No diagrams, but some install tips to help out...
Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
The bolts are torqued down in a 3 step process.
Step 1 8 ft/lbs
Step 2 16 ft/lbs
Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.
The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.
Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Whoopee! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
Get a tube of anti-seize and coat all the bolt threads and under the bolt heads. That will help insure even torque when you tighten the manifold bolts. Plan on re-torquing them a after a weeks worth of driving
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( BWD Automotive ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
Parts Plus - Premium Auto Parts & Accessories or Auto Value / Bumper to Bumper Quality Parts & Service - Home of the Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance Group or Auto Parts, Auto Service, Tires, Wheels, Car Care | Pep Boys Auto - Parts & Service or Federated Auto Parts - Automotive Aftermarket
Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.
Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
Consumable items:
Upper manifold gasket
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif
TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
