Going Kenne Bell (again)

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by BlackVert, Aug 30, 2005.

  1. Good to hear - keep going...........
  2. THe marks you are looking for are on the harmonic balancer, under the crank pulley. Get under the car and look behind the crank pulley, and have someone or yourself keep cranking the car untill you see the markings. Then mark 10*. It's very hard to see if you have the stock balancer, look really close.
  3. there is still alot left to do ... i bet there is alot more power there when i get he tune right.
    thanks. i have the bbk pulleys. at least now i know where to look. :rolleyes:
  4. someone asked for a list of supporting mods, so here goes:

    stuff used:

    the blower was used, and the guy threw in a bunch of stuff, including belts of different lengths, pulleys, 30# injectors, tubing, thermostats, a boost retard controller, and more

    i already had this stuff:
    - a c&l 80mm maf
    - a k&n filter
    - a tweecer for tuning
    - a pvc fenderwell intake

    i got this stuff on ebay:
    - frpp 42# injectors
    - walbro 255 fuel pump

    i got this stuff from my local parts supplier:
    - various sizes of vacuum tubing, connectors and tees
    - gaskets
    - new bolts and studs
    - rtv sealant
    - radiator hose to re-route the hose under the belt.
    - a pipe and some hose clamps to connect the 2 pieces of radiator hose

    stuff i had to modify for the install:
    - the coil needs to be moved somewhere.
    - - i moved mine above the tfi, which meant extending the wires.
    - the act (air charge temp) sensor was moved into the #5 runner on the lower intake
    - - this meant extending those wires too.
    - - this is recommended, but not strictly necessary
    - the vacuum hookups have to be relocated to the hookups on the front of the blower
    - - the fuel pressure goes after the blower so it sees boost.
    - - the others go on the other side so they only see vacuum
    - there is a different thermostat housing
    - the radiator hose needs to go under the belt, not over it like stock
    - - you can still go over the belt and use the stock ts housing if you want, but the belt comes thru higher so you would still have to mod the hose.
  5. Is a Cobra lower the same as the GT-40? In other words, will a Kenne Bell work with a Cobra lower?
  6. ^ YES ^ They are the same
  7. As said, yes they are - but they need to be ported to really let the KB breath. MatZ281LE is running one with a box upper (not a KB) and making 606RWHP.

    by the way, my job changed here at Mercy and I never did make it back down to Rogers. I understand the new hospital is really comming up quickly now.
  8. You work at a hospital? Which one? I write software that is sold to hospitals (I work for SoftMed Systems) ...
  9. i have a holley lower (i bought it with the blower for $100), but someone said only older models fit because they have the stock bolt pattern. apparently new holley lowers have a different bolt pattern, but i do not know that for a fact ... i am just repeating what someone else said.
  10. I worked at St John's Mercy Medical Center in St Louis for 10 years and came over to the Sisters of Mercy Health System corporate Engineering department 6 years ago. We have 17 hospitls in 4 states - Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, Oklahoma.

    The Holley lowers do have issues depending on when the casting was made - but you can put one on a long block and tell real quick if you'll have issues.......
  11. 01/16 update

    i have been fighting an oil leak. i have been messing around with the vacuum tubing because i was losing oil. it looked like it was getting pushed or sucked up through the pcv. as a result i was venting both the pcv and the valve cover vent to the atmosphere.

    so i took my son to the p.g. sportsplex for a track meet on saturday morning. i drove it hard for about 1/2 hour on the beltway because we were late and the car seemed to be running well. when i pulled off, i saw the smoke. not alot, but i could see and smell it.

    so i stop in the parking lot at fedex field and re-did the pcv and vent cover tubing. venting them to the atmosphere didn't seem good, so i put them on a tee and connected them to the vacuum side of the blower.

    on the way home i was watching for smoke. it was easy to see because there was alot of it. so i pulled off into a mcdonalds and popped the hood. oil all over the driver's side back of the engine, all down the bell housing, the exhaust, and even splattered on the rear bumper. smoking like a chimney.

    the weird thing is that i was not very low at all on the dipstick, and the blower was still full, so i don't really know where all the oil came from, unless it was filled higher than i thought.

    i drove the rest of the way home very gently.

    so i took it to my mechanic today and told him the story. he said the pcv needs vacuum and the valve cover vent can't have it. if anything, vent the valve cover before the t/b, which he did. he also said that it doesn't look like the oil was coming from the lower (which i was worried about), he said it looks to be coming out the (cork) valve cover gasket near #8. he then tried to get more oil to come out by driving it hard a little and was not able to. he also put in the 255 fuel pump and a new filter.

    on the way home, it felt really strong. i drove pretty hard, but there was alot of traffic and i couldn't really get on it much. there was a little smoke when i got home, but that could be oil from before still burning off.

    i am taking it back to the mechanic again tomorrow for the coil-overs, c/c plates, and balancer. i'm going to try to drive it hard to see if i can get more oil to come out for him.

    here is the vacuum routing i have now:


    oh, and now that it is making good power, i find out that my clutch is slipping. in 4th gear at about 3000 rpm, i mashed the gas. at about 3500, all of a sudden the tach jumped to 5500 and the car went nowhere. it's always something, huh?
  12. Get that thing DYNO'D!!!! :D
  13. the oil leak seems to have been the valve cover. we tightened it down and made sure the pcv and other vacuum lines were correct, and i haven't had any problems since. :D

    when my mechanic put on the new harmonic balancer, he also installed the fuel pump, set the timing, and put the spout connector back on. it feels stronger still. now i can start working on the tune ...

    here are some pics ... they are not very good, i still can't find my camera. these are from my cell phone:

    he also intalled the coil-overs and the c/c plates:

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  14. Ggod to hear things are looking up - I like the sewer pipe inlet :)
  15. You are making a lot of progress Chris :banana:

    Everything looks just GREAT :nice:

    A couple of thoughts or Q's about the tune.

    Moving the act to the lower intake ..............
    The CBAZA values are gonna have to be upped a bit ................
    Are you just gonna match the Fox values or what?

    You said the load scaling was now set at 2 ................
    I was thinking high airflow/load combos like forced/strokers used a value of 0 to help with keeping the load in check? :shrug:

    One more thing about the load scaler switch Chris.
    I got a dlog from a Vortech combo SN member the other day and I noticed he had his scalar at 0 and he was at 199.999 load well before his redline. IIRC, this guy was 35-40% load at idle.

    I do know when this has been reported on the tuner sites, others more experienced have advised the poster to scale the load down.

    Sorry to hear about the clutch ... but with that kind of power :D

  16. Looks great. Wished now I woulda gotten the fulley polished version.
  17. 1.8L ... like mine. usually they are either 1.5L or 2.2L ... :nice: how did the last guy get a 1.8L?

    my IAT is in the lower intake, near the #5 runner. i had to extend the wire to reach. i also had to come up with a new location for the coil.

    the car has been running like crap (see this thread for details: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=644529), but i blame myself, not the kb. i am a newbie on working on my car and i am going the self-tuning route with my tweecer, and i am sure it is those things that are causing my problems.

    i have been having some pinging when it is fully warmed up (IAT temps can be above 230*!) and i recently melted a plug wire on a header because i didn't have a heat shield boot. i pulled the plug about 15 minutes ago and the plug is cracked. that would explain the miss.

    no i have not tried the iridium plugs, sorry

    i currently have motorcraft asf32c plugs (one range colder),

    i just got autolite 23's (2 ranges colder), new wires and heat shield boots. i'm hoping that will help alot.

    re the car pics: thanks! i think the kb is an awesome blower, but i do wish there was a way to use it with an intercooler.
  18. ok no problem...not too harsh....OK sounds great.....What HP numbers did you have with the KB on your 302?...Did you have a main girlde(i think thats what they call it) to help the block?....Im looking into also the 351 i have already a 4" rise cowl that i got from a company in ohio...it looks great on my 95....really good quality.....what KB did you have too? did you have to do any internal stuff to get the KB working ok and safely?..THANKS
  19. MD doesn't sell spray paint apparently. :D
  20. 1.8 liters..wow! I am no expert on those blowers but that is like putting a miata engine on top the stang engine, lol.