guys who rebuilt their t-5's
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should be here on thursday since it is coming from tx. great guy too, lots of info from corral.
LOL
I ordered my stuff from the same source.
I drove the car for the first time yesterday. The rebuilt T-5 seems fine.
MattSVTContour
Member
Great thread! I'm about to tear into mine as I've got a low speed whine, which might mean my counter gearset is done. We'll see.
Got a shop press cheap off Craigslist from an auto repair shop that was going out of business. The jack on it needed a couple of o-rings, but now it is good as new.
Got a shop press cheap off Craigslist from an auto repair shop that was going out of business. The jack on it needed a couple of o-rings, but now it is good as new.
hanlon motorsports sells a very good rebuild video,for those do it yourselfers.this is not hard to do but it does take a tad bit of time and some specialty tools.oh and a bit of common sence.but most of you guys should be good to go this was info for the newbees that havent busted thier first knuckle yet.
Remember that you have to break in the trans after the rebuild, especially after putting a new 2nd gear in. Its a lot like doing rear end gears.
Well I didnt know if I would have time this weekend to get it done but I did.
Friday- 1.5 hours to pull trans from putting it on jack stands until it was sitting on the ground. YAY air tools.
Saturday afternoon- I went as far as I could go without a bearing separator. Harbor freight had a press for $75 which was a rinky dinky thing. Too much for me so instead I bought a $15 6 ton bottle jack, $6 in 2X4's and $5 in nail blockers for plates. $26 bucks and I made a decent press. While I doubt it could handle the 6 tons it only need a few hundred pounds to take the bearings off.
Sunday morning before super bowl- bought bearing separator and tore it all the way down. Started putting it back together about half way through before the game. at midnight I finish putting the shifter back on.
things I wished I did different- I was missing a few parts I thought should have been in the kit (caged roller bearings and counter gear shims). I didnt pay attention to one part in the video and broke three of the new keys (it was okay, the old keys were good).
and last but not least- I wish I would have checked the clutch cable. I figured the guy before went with ford. but to my surprise I pop the cover off and find it is an adjustable clutch cable and the locking nut came off with a few twists using my fingers. If I had just checked that when this all began I probably would not have had to replace the cluster and second gear. oh wel. live and learn. I will post pics up of my homemade press if someone would like. It is a one time use type of thing as the frame has started to split. Why? well, after the transmission was done I decided to see how flat I could crush things and in all my excitement I went to far and split a few pieces. I think next time I am going to buy angle iron and weld one together.
Friday- 1.5 hours to pull trans from putting it on jack stands until it was sitting on the ground. YAY air tools.
Saturday afternoon- I went as far as I could go without a bearing separator. Harbor freight had a press for $75 which was a rinky dinky thing. Too much for me so instead I bought a $15 6 ton bottle jack, $6 in 2X4's and $5 in nail blockers for plates. $26 bucks and I made a decent press. While I doubt it could handle the 6 tons it only need a few hundred pounds to take the bearings off.
Sunday morning before super bowl- bought bearing separator and tore it all the way down. Started putting it back together about half way through before the game. at midnight I finish putting the shifter back on.
things I wished I did different- I was missing a few parts I thought should have been in the kit (caged roller bearings and counter gear shims). I didnt pay attention to one part in the video and broke three of the new keys (it was okay, the old keys were good).
and last but not least- I wish I would have checked the clutch cable. I figured the guy before went with ford. but to my surprise I pop the cover off and find it is an adjustable clutch cable and the locking nut came off with a few twists using my fingers. If I had just checked that when this all began I probably would not have had to replace the cluster and second gear. oh wel. live and learn. I will post pics up of my homemade press if someone would like. It is a one time use type of thing as the frame has started to split. Why? well, after the transmission was done I decided to see how flat I could crush things and in all my excitement I went to far and split a few pieces. I think next time I am going to buy angle iron and weld one together.
a few items worthy of mentioning.
a whine is not a death sentence. It's usually caused by the bearings or even gears.
just be sure your fluid is topped off and it could go for years more.
as well, I've found that I don't need a press for nearly the entire thing, although I do have a press.
the countershaft bearings are easy.
pull off the cover with the torquex bits and slide the countershaft out as far as it'll go. snip the bearing ring that holds all the rollers off. Next get your punch and put it against the bearing from inside of the mainshaft hole in the case. hard to explain, but hit with a hammer the punch against the bearing and it'll slide off. next grab a prybar for the other bearing when you pull the shaft.
installing bearings onto that shaft is simple. I never heat or cool anything. I use a socket that's the same width as the inner part of the bearing. I set the shaft up in the vice and use the socket and hammer and tap the bearing down. works like a charm.
For the bearing facing the torquex bit cover that you install after the shaft has been put into the trans, use a few old bearing races and put them on top of the new bearing. then grab that other socket and tap tap the new bearing into place.
A press is most handy to install the new bearing race for the cluster that's pressed into the case. however, on a crunch I have tapped it into place. I've also destroyed a race doing that too, so it's a fine art. If the race isn't destroyed, you can just re use it often.
mainly, the only thing I use my press for now is to remove the 3/4 slider from the main shaft. I find it's usually on too tightly. I've pryed it off before by using a prybar between third and second gear, but I've also chipped 2nd gear teeth and third gear teeth before doing this. For this reason I usually press it off. however, if you're persistent and careful, you can get it off.
Also, the master rebuild kits have a lot of crap you don't need.
For example, the keys and springs are all typical non wear items. No reason at all to replace keys and springs unless one of the keys is damaged, which is rare.
As well, caged roller bearings are a typical non wear item. You don't need to replace those unless they're damaged. They just allow the gear to freespin on the shaft.
tailshaft bushing can be inspected too and re used if it's in good condition.
I buy a rebuild kit that costs under $200...just new bearings syncro's and small parts. I re use the outer blocking rings, those are non wear too.
Keep in mind, I save all my old parts from my rebuilds and have extra stuff laying around should I find a damaged key or blocker ring.
You'll find that astroperformace sells just keys and springs for cheap. You may be able to call these guys for other stuff too
I suggest a tear down for anyone before buying a rebuild kit. this will allow you to inspect the parts before evaluating which kit you need.
I've talked with all the repitable t5 shops around, and they do the exact procedure for parts replacement I've outline above.
As well, I don't hesitate to do a "budget build"....
for example, if I have a t5 that's just grinds second, i'll tear it down and inspect 2nd gear, the 1/2 slider and the syncros.
I'll mic the syncro, and if it's under spec I'll swap in a used one from my used pile that i've inspected before. I'll throw the whole t5 back together and only replace the broken parts.
I only do this though to hook friends up. It allows you though to essentially fix your t5 for very little cost.
Often there is no reason to throw a $200-350 rebuild kit at a t5 if it's just grinding second when you know everything else is good.
couple of other tips: wack the mainshaft/cluster fairly hard with a hammer from both sides several times. this helps seats the bearings. Re shim after you've done that.
I always preload the input 2 thousands. Once it loosened up so much on me that second gear started popping out. I'm very particular now on trying to get everything seated before I call the t5 done. I preload a min of 2 thousands, up to 4k.
finally, tremec only sells a few of the shims for the counter shaft. they've stopped making most.
If you find you have play, you have two choices. buy the over sized shim and have it ground down at a machine shop.
OR, i've found the 8.8 rebuild shims are the EXACT size you need for the countershaft, and are sold in little baggies with them down to the thousands. I use them in conjuction with the larger shim to get it perfect.
a whine is not a death sentence. It's usually caused by the bearings or even gears.
just be sure your fluid is topped off and it could go for years more.
as well, I've found that I don't need a press for nearly the entire thing, although I do have a press.
the countershaft bearings are easy.
pull off the cover with the torquex bits and slide the countershaft out as far as it'll go. snip the bearing ring that holds all the rollers off. Next get your punch and put it against the bearing from inside of the mainshaft hole in the case. hard to explain, but hit with a hammer the punch against the bearing and it'll slide off. next grab a prybar for the other bearing when you pull the shaft.
installing bearings onto that shaft is simple. I never heat or cool anything. I use a socket that's the same width as the inner part of the bearing. I set the shaft up in the vice and use the socket and hammer and tap the bearing down. works like a charm.
For the bearing facing the torquex bit cover that you install after the shaft has been put into the trans, use a few old bearing races and put them on top of the new bearing. then grab that other socket and tap tap the new bearing into place.
A press is most handy to install the new bearing race for the cluster that's pressed into the case. however, on a crunch I have tapped it into place. I've also destroyed a race doing that too, so it's a fine art. If the race isn't destroyed, you can just re use it often.
mainly, the only thing I use my press for now is to remove the 3/4 slider from the main shaft. I find it's usually on too tightly. I've pryed it off before by using a prybar between third and second gear, but I've also chipped 2nd gear teeth and third gear teeth before doing this. For this reason I usually press it off. however, if you're persistent and careful, you can get it off.
Also, the master rebuild kits have a lot of crap you don't need.
For example, the keys and springs are all typical non wear items. No reason at all to replace keys and springs unless one of the keys is damaged, which is rare.
As well, caged roller bearings are a typical non wear item. You don't need to replace those unless they're damaged. They just allow the gear to freespin on the shaft.
tailshaft bushing can be inspected too and re used if it's in good condition.
I buy a rebuild kit that costs under $200...just new bearings syncro's and small parts. I re use the outer blocking rings, those are non wear too.
Keep in mind, I save all my old parts from my rebuilds and have extra stuff laying around should I find a damaged key or blocker ring.
You'll find that astroperformace sells just keys and springs for cheap. You may be able to call these guys for other stuff too
I suggest a tear down for anyone before buying a rebuild kit. this will allow you to inspect the parts before evaluating which kit you need.
I've talked with all the repitable t5 shops around, and they do the exact procedure for parts replacement I've outline above.
As well, I don't hesitate to do a "budget build"....
for example, if I have a t5 that's just grinds second, i'll tear it down and inspect 2nd gear, the 1/2 slider and the syncros.
I'll mic the syncro, and if it's under spec I'll swap in a used one from my used pile that i've inspected before. I'll throw the whole t5 back together and only replace the broken parts.
I only do this though to hook friends up. It allows you though to essentially fix your t5 for very little cost.
Often there is no reason to throw a $200-350 rebuild kit at a t5 if it's just grinding second when you know everything else is good.
couple of other tips: wack the mainshaft/cluster fairly hard with a hammer from both sides several times. this helps seats the bearings. Re shim after you've done that.
I always preload the input 2 thousands. Once it loosened up so much on me that second gear started popping out. I'm very particular now on trying to get everything seated before I call the t5 done. I preload a min of 2 thousands, up to 4k.
finally, tremec only sells a few of the shims for the counter shaft. they've stopped making most.
If you find you have play, you have two choices. buy the over sized shim and have it ground down at a machine shop.
OR, i've found the 8.8 rebuild shims are the EXACT size you need for the countershaft, and are sold in little baggies with them down to the thousands. I use them in conjuction with the larger shim to get it perfect.
PS. If anyone has one of these master rebuild kits around and has some misc parts, i could use the following
Tailhousing Vent tube
countergear oiling funnel
Tailhousing Vent tube
countergear oiling funnel
things I crushed-
coke can- a little thicker than 2 quarters stacked
part of a cheese stick- guess I thought I was gallagher
flattened a piece of angle iron- this started to split a little here.
an old mp3 player- didnt last long at all.
an old computer speaker- put up a struggle but still faded in comparasion to the 6 ton jack
and last
went back to the coke can to get it done to the above mentioned size and the low frame nails began backing out and the lower frame 2x4 actually began to twist.
it was fun. I figured I was going to keep the jack anyways and the frame cost me about $10 to make.
coke can- a little thicker than 2 quarters stacked
part of a cheese stick- guess I thought I was gallagher
flattened a piece of angle iron- this started to split a little here.
an old mp3 player- didnt last long at all.
an old computer speaker- put up a struggle but still faded in comparasion to the 6 ton jack
and last
went back to the coke can to get it done to the above mentioned size and the low frame nails began backing out and the lower frame 2x4 actually began to twist.
it was fun. I figured I was going to keep the jack anyways and the frame cost me about $10 to make.
MattSVTContour
Member
Any tips for cleaning up the parts and case after the teardown? In the Hanlon video he seems to stress that. I was going to buy a small, cheap parts washer, but I haven't heard you guys mention this. Can you get by with a couple cans of brake cleaner?
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