not until we adjusted it down. I dont see fuel but i smelled it last try. Was holding friday and no smell
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H/C/I No Start
- Thread starter Strype
- Start date
not until we adjusted it down. I dont see fuel but i smelled it last try. Was holding friday and no smell
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liljoe07
5 Year Member
Just turn the key on and let the pressure build to whatever it builds to. Turn the key off, and see how fast the pressure Bleeds down.
A) Fuel Pressure:
Okay when the ignition is turned to the on position, without trying to crank, the inline guage spikes to 50 for a split second then starts dropping from 40. It drops quickly to 20 within a few seconds and from 20 to 10 in about 30-40 seconds total. When it hits 10 it takes another 30 seconds to get to 5, and from 5 is when I quit counting because it sat at 3-5 for so long.
So from 5 it takes a few minutes to get to 0. The drop to 5 takes about a minute. Note that these fuel rails are HUGE and I have an AFPR. I see no gas under the plenum, at the fuel rails or at the injectors, or on the ground. I can hear a swishing sound at the fpr as it primes but I take it that's the gas hitting the FPR?
B) Timing
The motor would spit and sputter where I had the the dizzy pointing to the #1 plug at 12:00. I looked at a picture I took before the build, and at my markings and restabbed the dizzy 2 teeth over to get that picture again. The dizzy now sits where every mustang I've ever worked on sits. The #1 is at about 1:30 or 2:00, the rotor is pointing directly at that plug wire on the cap, the balancer reads 10. A build shouldn't change that correct? I should be DEAD on with the timing, cam was installed straight up. It is sitting where it was before the build, and I have markings to prove it.
Okay when the ignition is turned to the on position, without trying to crank, the inline guage spikes to 50 for a split second then starts dropping from 40. It drops quickly to 20 within a few seconds and from 20 to 10 in about 30-40 seconds total. When it hits 10 it takes another 30 seconds to get to 5, and from 5 is when I quit counting because it sat at 3-5 for so long.
So from 5 it takes a few minutes to get to 0. The drop to 5 takes about a minute. Note that these fuel rails are HUGE and I have an AFPR. I see no gas under the plenum, at the fuel rails or at the injectors, or on the ground. I can hear a swishing sound at the fpr as it primes but I take it that's the gas hitting the FPR?
B) Timing
The motor would spit and sputter where I had the the dizzy pointing to the #1 plug at 12:00. I looked at a picture I took before the build, and at my markings and restabbed the dizzy 2 teeth over to get that picture again. The dizzy now sits where every mustang I've ever worked on sits. The #1 is at about 1:30 or 2:00, the rotor is pointing directly at that plug wire on the cap, the balancer reads 10. A build shouldn't change that correct? I should be DEAD on with the timing, cam was installed straight up. It is sitting where it was before the build, and I have markings to prove it.
liljoe07
5 Year Member
Thats way too quick.
id say you have a faulty Fuel reg, stuck injector, or bad check valve in the pump. The check valve i wouldnt worry about.
if you had some hose pliers, you could prime the pump till it stops, then pinch off the supply and return line at a soft spot on the fuel lines. then turn the key off, and see how fast the pressure drops. If it drops fast again, its an injector problem. If it doesnt, then do the same again, just leave the return line not pinched off. And if pressure drops it the Regulator. Im thinking its probably the injectors since 1 and 4 plugs were gas soaked. Just another thing to try.
id say you have a faulty Fuel reg, stuck injector, or bad check valve in the pump. The check valve i wouldnt worry about.
if you had some hose pliers, you could prime the pump till it stops, then pinch off the supply and return line at a soft spot on the fuel lines. then turn the key off, and see how fast the pressure drops. If it drops fast again, its an injector problem. If it doesnt, then do the same again, just leave the return line not pinched off. And if pressure drops it the Regulator. Im thinking its probably the injectors since 1 and 4 plugs were gas soaked. Just another thing to try.
Your rockers were loose or tight? I had a feeling earlier today that might be the case. It's almost like a cylinder isn't firing.
I have a cheap arse torque wrench that I set to 15 or 18 I don't remember. I shimmed them to make sure they didn't take more than a half turn or something I don't remember.
A loose rocker would cause stuttering and backfiring?
Hmmm...
Return comes off the FPR right?
This is a brand new AFPR, I don't remember what brand. The injectors are the 19#ers that I was running before the build.
As I said though the oil really smells like gas.
Also the fuel pressure does not stay while the ignition is in the on position, it drops whether the ignition is on or off at the same rate. If I can get out and run fast enough I may try to clamp those hoses. I can leave the return clamped either way right?
What I mean is can I pinch off the return line while it's priming? If the return line is pinched off, and the pressure still drops I'd know I had a stuck injector or bad fpr right?
I still have the stock fuel pump in. I didn't want to change it until I got the car cranked. The new fuel lines are huge.
67coupe
Founding Member
Are you still trying to start the engine with the spout out?
If so, put it back in. With the spout out, the computer cannot control timing advance and will be locked to only your initial timing. This could be anywhere between 10 BTDC to 10 ATDC.
If so, put it back in. With the spout out, the computer cannot control timing advance and will be locked to only your initial timing. This could be anywhere between 10 BTDC to 10 ATDC.
67coupe
Founding Member
It probably wont fix your miss, but it will definitely be easier to start/idle, then diagnose from there.
67coupe
Founding Member
Also, once it's running, throw a light on it and set the timing accurately. Even though the timing marks are at 10 BTDC and rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal, the actual timing could be +/- 5 degrees.
Will do.
To Do List (incase I get sidetracked I will have this wonderful interweb record):
a) Charge battery
b) Put in spout plug
c) Attempt crank
d) Check rockers
e) Attempt crank
f) Try a different FPR
g) Attempt crank
h) Push into street
i) Set afire
To Do List (incase I get sidetracked I will have this wonderful interweb record):
a) Charge battery
b) Put in spout plug
c) Attempt crank
d) Check rockers
e) Attempt crank
f) Try a different FPR
g) Attempt crank
h) Push into street
i) Set afire
Oh I've already been thru injector problems so I put the stockers back in! I already pulled my hair out a few times- This build started in MARCH.
BTW, Did you guys know that if you inadvertantly pulled the PCV valve out while putting the intake on that it would sputter and pop?
BTW, Did you guys know that if you inadvertantly pulled the PCV valve out while putting the intake on that it would sputter and pop?
