Engine Head Gasket Swap... Questions Within

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by madspeed, Apr 21, 2014.

  1. Finally got my parts to swap in some 9333 pt1 head gaskets. First time at it believe it or not. Going to have some questions I'm sure. Got a little bit of time tonight so I started tearing into it.
  2. #2 madspeed, Apr 21, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2014
  3. Yep, they are stud mount adjustable. Loosen up the poly locks - center allen nut- while holding the outer nut, and then back off the outer nut a turn or so. Then you can remove the pushrods. You can remove the heads with the rockers still on.

    Take a cardboard box and punch 16 holes in it- 8 one one row, 8 in another row. number them 1 intake, 1 exhaust, 2 intake, etc.... When you remove the pushrods hold them up to the light and make sure they are not clogged- you can blow it out with some compressed air. Take it and roll it on a flat surface to make sure it's not bent. There is a top and bottom of the pushrod so keep track. Stick the pushrod in the corresponding hole in the box. That way you keep track of them.
  4. Got the box ready, just wasnt sure if i needed to measure or mark anything other than keeping them in the order they are.

  5. What he said.

    You might want to take this opportunity to check methods for resetting all of those. I keep mine on the loose/slightly noisier side.
  6. All I have to offer with this is tacos haha but yes those are stud mounted rockers and just like mike said on how to remove them ... @mikestang63 I like the cardboard idea I will have to do that on my next head swap
  7. Like the others have said. Loosen the rockers and remove the pushrods. Get that intake away and pop those heads off. Do you plan on having them resurfaced or at least checked?
  8. Yep, although they are fairly new, I've got a guy down the street that builds engines for dirt track racers and has even done some high end arca engines. Phil Miller Race Engines. I'll drop them off tomorrow and have em gone over. May need him to stop by afterwards to help with the install to make sure im squared away
  9. Have him take the least amount off the heads as possible, as that can change the pushrod length needed. As Noobz said, there are different opinions on preload settings. Generally for street, you want to be around 1/2 turn past 0 lash on the retaining nut, and then snug down the poly lock and the retaining nut. You will want to check for the witness mark or swipe on the valve tip to make sure your pushrod length is correct.

    Mad, here is one of the better video's I've seen over the years that explains how to adjust them very simply.

    Grabbin' Asphalt likes this.
  10. Those types of center allen locks are also on riding lawn mowers, if it wont start and the carbs clean, the valves probably need adjusting. I snugged up the two valves on a troybilt 17.5 and it starts up quick and runs strong, .....it's getting summer so go cut that grass too :p
  11. Thanks so far fellas. Heads off, here's the culprit


    #11 madspeed, Apr 21, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2014
  12. I noticed that for the last year or two theres been some oil lying on the lower head stud for that cylinder. Guess we see what resulted...

    Next question.

    Many have said there should be some step washers in there, and I dont see any. I threw a micrometer on both the head stud and the opening in the head. Do these require step washers???

    Head stud

    Head openings
  13. .

    Attached Files:

    #13 madspeed, Apr 21, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2014
  14. The stepped washers are a good idea to ensure proper torque on the head bolts (they stop the bolt for distorting under torque load), but I have seen people run without them.

    You've got about a 50/50 shot of head gasket failure without them, so it's up to you if the price of the top end gasket kit and the hours of work involved are a worthy gamble to save $50?

    If it were me, I'd use them....and I did.

    BTW, I don't recall....what took the head gasket out in the first place?
  15. X2 what Brian said. Use the washers. My guess is because there weren't any, that allowed the head to walk a little on the gasket.
  16. Sorry, I am late to the party but, everyone pretty much said everything I was going to say. One thing was left out though...no mention of the beerz anywhere?
  17. Forgot to snap a pic of the empty Coronas....

    Plan on getting the step washers. I'll see if the machine shop has any before I order online.

    @Gearbanger101 After installing the turbo and doing some datalogging to dial in the tune, I finally discovered I had a bad maf. Installed a new slot maf and everything was great. I guess i attribute the blowout to the bad maf.
    Also noticed oil buildup on the lower head bolt at that cylinder. Been like that since I got it. I did notice that when removing the nuts, that one didnt seem much tighter than hand tight, and even the rest didnt feel as tight as I thought they should. They either werent torqued down properly, or loosened up?

    So I would think that the combination of no step washers on loose head bolts on a car with a bad maf with boost added will lead to this!

    Heads going to the shop today to check them over.
    #17 madspeed, Apr 22, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  18. Head gaskets blown, check..tear engine down, check...drink beer, check...where are the tacos ???

    X3 on using step washers!
  19. Heads taken to shop. Shop closed, owner on vacation. Go home, drink beer with heads by my side
  20. :lol: Time to clean every vaccum hose.