I can't get no traction

Yea I guess I need to check with Bama.
And now that I am thinking about it, you are right, the LCA relo isn't going to change pinion angle. Ok so what you say makes sense, perhaps I will give that a shot. Hmm....
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Nitto's are a HUGE part of your problem. Never had so many issues as when i ran them. Switched to Toyo Proxies helped a lot. But you also cant just drop the hammer and expect things to hold.
 
No I know you can't just stand on it and expect it to hold. The other day I was kinda finding the point at which I lose it. I slowly leaned on it in 2nd. I got maybe halfway down and was getting sideways. I always though Nitto was one of the best so that is good info. I have also been reading about the LCA relo brackets. I think I may try those too.
 
I have learned to appreciate just how well the Dunlop SP Sport 9000 has been! I've run them ever since early March this year until this past Saturday (put the OEM 235/50-18 BFG KDWS back on for winter duty). 285/50-18 out back with 245/45-18 up front until July when I stepped up to a wider wheel and went to a 275/40-18. With the Dunlop, I could be fairly aggressive off the start and it would catch quickly and a brief chirp into second. With the 235/50 BFG...:eek: If I don't baby it, the back tires quickly turn to blue smoke! So, tires make a HUGE difference! I gained better traction due to better compound, wider tread and increased weight which took some power away.
 
KD, what wheels are you running with your winter tires? I imagine your car looks totally different now?

patrick

I am not used to seeing the tires swallowed up by the fenders:rlaugh: The tires are the OEM BFG KDWS 235/50-18. I also run these wheels at the track, but have the 265/45 MT ET Streets on another matching pair.
Nasty winter weather setup:
4173594550_d6c7798c8b_o.jpg


Drag strip setup:
3428174668_1f732bb148_o.jpg
 
As the hp level on our car climbed, we migrated from Nitto DRs, to M&H Drs,to MT DRs, Hoosiers slicks and now back to MT slicks. The stickier the tire, the less efficient they are at evacuating water though.

Close up pic of the Hoosiers under stress at launch
hoosCloseUp1.jpg


The MTs warming up
MVC-014S-2.jpg


Pretty old pic of car with the 325 M&Hs, when it was still driven on the street
MVC-002S-6.jpg
 
hey steve the 325 m&h pic, what size rim are they on?

i've got 325 nittos on my 15x10 i get alot of buldge. on your set up it seems like the opposite.

Nittos run small to their stated size, but M&Hs run even smaller! My buddy was running a 275/50 M&H on the 17x8 Bullitt wheel and there was hardly any sidewall buldge! Just the same as my 265/45-18 on a 18x8.5 wheel has very little bulge and looks to be the same width as the BFG 235/50:shrug:
2869834108_65143f3ff7_b.jpg
 
He's right...the M&Hs run small. Think the rim was 17 deep dish. Still have them laying around somewhere. If the wheel well in the closeup pic looks jagged...it's because we had to do some cutting at the track, when we noticed the metal was cutting into the tires.

We have to drill the tires into the rims now, so they want move, when shocked by transbrake use. Both front tires are off the ground in the larger version of that closeup pic.
 
I can't believe no one's told him you can't "hammer" it in 2nd gear...especially if you're already up there in the rpms and back off the gas completely. Gotta feather it in.

Try adding some weight to the rear...like a couple subs and an amp lol

Other than that, I think your TCS is off because my car dyno'd 298rwhp and i'm running 255s and I hook great. I get a little squirrely in the 1-2 shift but only if I lose focus, otherwise, its smooth.