No, because they are riveted to the floor with tabs that are permanent parts of the cables. Not gonna go drilling that type of stuff out and having to put it back. Its working out ok where it is. Im not a shop doing a nut and bolt restoration.
Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread
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No, because they are riveted to the floor with tabs that are permanent parts of the cables. Not gonna go drilling that type of stuff out and having to put it back. Its working out ok where it is. Im not a shop doing a nut and bolt restoration.
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I considered seeing what the stores had to offer, but it wasnt that bad. I have a socket big enough to use to tap the new ones in. Not too worried about that part. (Famous last words, I know)
Yeah I just meant unclip the cables from the T and release the locks so the cables stay attatched to the brakes
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
yeah so stupid you have to disassemble each drum completely to get to the ebrake. I just went through this myself
Yeah I just meant unclip the cables from the T and release the locks so the cables stay attatched to the brakes
I know what you mean brother, but the cables are attached under the car as well. I'll take a pic for you when Im under there tomorrow.
I just cut them off and threw the drums in the trash.
I honestly dont know if I'll ever bother swapping them out. I will never road race the car, and for the street drums are fine in my opinion. I'll probably buy CCW classics or something similar that will just hide them better.
Small progress is being made. Man, I wish aftermarket companies would sometimes do some QC to save their idiot customers from themselves. I set the diff cover on my freshly squeezed out RTV, start going around snugging the bolts only to realize the right side isnt quite squishing all the way down. The bearing cap load bolt was set too far in, and I totally spaced off being sure it was backed all the way out. It was so tight I couldnt back it off without loosening the cover bolts...So to be sure I hadnt hurt anything, I pulled the cover back off to inspect. All looks fine, but I managed to get fresh RTV all over hell and creation somehow. So consider my day starting off slightly on the wrong foot. The good news, Im going from this:
To this (bad pic, I know):
To this (bad pic, I know):
Didnt get nearly as much done as I had hoped today, but that was due to having to run around town for new control arm bolts. I was too dumb to just buy them from LMR with the control arms... Turns out 12mmX1.75 in 4" length just happened to be out of stock at all my usual places. 2", 3", 5" length no problem, just no 4", bunch of empty bins... I was pissed. But the rear is all painted and hung, finally. Eibach pro kit springs, Prothane isolators, Koni non adjustable shocks, BMR adjustable uppers, new Ford rubber upper bushings, Maximum Motorsports HD lowers, J&M braided rear brake line, Scott Drake diff cover. Rear sway bar still needs paint, just sticking with the stock one.
Yes, I have red upper control arms. Black was out of stock, and once its on the ground they are hidden. Havent set pinion angle yet.
Those Koni shocks match my orange stripe around the car. Gives me a strangely satisfied feeling. (Mike, the wheel wells will be cleaned and painted, dont you worry)
I also replaced my leaking output shaft seal on the transmission while the driveshaft was off, but did not take a picture of that.
Thats all for tonight. Tomorrow will be the front suspension, and rehanging the exhaust. I hope to complete that in a day...
Yes, I have red upper control arms. Black was out of stock, and once its on the ground they are hidden. Havent set pinion angle yet.
Those Koni shocks match my orange stripe around the car. Gives me a strangely satisfied feeling. (Mike, the wheel wells will be cleaned and painted, dont you worry)
I also replaced my leaking output shaft seal on the transmission while the driveshaft was off, but did not take a picture of that.
Thats all for tonight. Tomorrow will be the front suspension, and rehanging the exhaust. I hope to complete that in a day...
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It's a little late Nick, but if you ever want them I have a brand new set of bolts for the control arms. I ordered them for Doby a couple years ago and never used them.
You've helped me, I'll help you back if you need it.
You've helped me, I'll help you back if you need it.
Hmm, I may actually take you up on that Dave. It would be nice to have the right ones rather than the generic stuff I was able to find. Swapping them out one by one wouldnt take too long, honestly. I'll at least pay for shipping on them.
Wait, dont you need them for Booger? Im good man, save them for your own car!
The IRS needs a slightly larger bolt for the lower control arm area. Don't need uppers.
Slowwww progress today. I had the passenger side front blown apart in no time. But then I saw surface rust all over the inside strut tower area. Couldnt just leave it, so I wire wheeled, cleaned it and applied POR15.
Getting the Eibach spring in was impossible with the design of the BMR arm. There is hardly any wall to the spring perch to hold the spring in. I ended up going the route of spring on control arm, then jack it up together. Had to use a ratchet strap on the jack to keep it from rolling out under the pressure of the spring. What a nightmare. I still have the other side to do. I remember when this stuff used to be fun... Now I just want it done so I can drive the damned thing.
Getting the Eibach spring in was impossible with the design of the BMR arm. There is hardly any wall to the spring perch to hold the spring in. I ended up going the route of spring on control arm, then jack it up together. Had to use a ratchet strap on the jack to keep it from rolling out under the pressure of the spring. What a nightmare. I still have the other side to do. I remember when this stuff used to be fun... Now I just want it done so I can drive the damned thing.
Looks great.Similar threads
