Hack
15 Year Member
I don't know, looks like a great street build to me. Other than tuning I wouldn't change a thing. Unless you just have a lot of extra money and nothing to spend it on.jerry S said:Hack, you say Torque like it is a bad thing.
Re my engine, it is a 351W bored .040 over. I have posted the dyno below this message. Basically, my torque peaks at 3600 rpm while my engine makes power to about 5600 before it flat lines. My timing is still way off. I am at 28 degrees total advance whereas I should be at 32-34 considering my 10.5 CR. I should pick up some power when I get the timing right. Crower tells me this cam's power band is 2200-6000 so spinning it faster won't get me any gains.
Nope, just a 358W so not so much weight.
I was trying to get the most out of it. I think I am limited by my heads (RPM Performers). I will either port them or just get new AFRs. with a peak hp of 300 rwhp behind a C6 with a crappy torque converter and a trac-loc in desperate need of a rebuild, I am guessing that my drivetrain loss is 25% giving me 400 hp at the fly (with the timing being so retarded. I should pick up 10-15 rwhp when I advance to 32-34+).
I do still firmly believe that if someone built another engine with similar cubes and set it up to rev to 7,500 or more it would make more power and be faster than yours. That's assuming that they've set it up well.
Let me say this again, I'm not saying a build like yours is bad, just that it will be out-performed by a higher revving engine with similar cubes... an engine that makes more hp than torque. Your engine probably costs less, will last longer and is more suited to street driving, though. As I said before, a build like yours is what I would want to do for a street engine.