Engine Spout connector (Code 18)

[5.0-5MT]

Do I need the spout connector to daily this thing? I set the timing and it starts without issue but as soon as I plug it the spout connector it won't run at all. I may fix it in the future but for now I just want to drive it. Is it okay to drive it without the spout connector?

 

[Noobz347]

Do I need the spout connector to daily this thing? I set the timing and it starts without issue but as soon as I plug it the spout connector it won't run at all. I may fix it in the future but for now I just want to drive it. Is it okay to drive it without the spout connector?

You will have [zero] timing advance when you're driving it so, [No]. It's not ok to drive around with the spout out.

What is your timing with the spout out at idle?

It may be that your ECU is toast and needs service or it could be a bad or broken wire to/from one of the sensors. Have you pulled codes?

 

[5.0-5MT]

You will have [zero] timing advance when you're driving it so, [No]. It's not ok to drive around with the spout out.

What is your timing with the spout out at idle?

It may be that your ECU is toast and needs service or it could be a bad or broken wire to/from one of the sensors. Have you pulled codes?

Timing is set to 10* without the spout.
Here is a list of codes
KOER
94
33
18
KOEO
84

 

[Noobz347]

18 ​	(R)​	​ Check base timing & advance function – Timing Tests​
​	(M)​	​ Ignition TACH signal erratic – Ignition Systems​
​	​	​ Spark Angle Word (SAW) circuit failure (1 9L SFI)​

This appears to be the issue. The other two codes are for EGR etc. and should cause what you're seeing. This points back to a wiring and/or connector error.

Refer to @jrichker's post in this thread: https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/help-code-18.896093/#post-9031071

 

[5.0-5MT]

I was checking the timing advance with and without the SPOUT plugged in. with it not plugged in, timing is 10*, as soon as I plug it in the engine dies, immediately. Does this point to a bad TFI? also, without the SPOUT, timing advanced about 6* when I rev to about 3000.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Another good thread with @jrichker solving problems:

Electrical - 93 5.0 LX Code 18 SPOUT in Issues

New to forum and think I have read most posts referencing a Code 18 and SPOUT issues. My trouble shooting results are slightly different from the other posts I have read so sharing to get some insight for next step in solving my problem. I have a 93 LX 5.0 5spd convertible. Two weeks ago...

stangnet.com

 

[5.0-5MT]

Thanks, hopefully I can make some progress on this today. Looks like I have a lot of work to do.

 

[5.0-5MT]

Is this the 10 mm bolt that's supposed to come out?

If so, I can spin it freely but it won't come out. And doesn't move in or out.

Edit: I was able to get it unplugged

 

[5.0-5MT]

the light green/yellow wire is supposed to be on the TFI connector correct? I don't see this wire on my TFI.

 

[Noobz347]

I know this doesn't help much but it [should] be pin 5 in the connector right next to the 18ga Black/Orange wire:

This assumes a harness original to the car

 

[5.0-5MT]

Not seeing the dark blue either. Here's a picture of my TFI connector.

 

[Noobz347]

Ok, try this one:

It should be [Tan/Yellow], although, I don't see the [pink] wire in your image.

 

[5.0-5MT]

Ok, try this one:

It should be [Tan/Yellow], although, I don't see the [pink] wire in your image.

I do have pink, I think it's just faded. The other colors match up. Resistance with comp. Unplugged from tan/yellow to batt. Negative post and spout plugged in is 39.4 ohms. What next?

 

[Noobz347]

I do have pink, I think it's just faded. The other colors match up. Resistance with comp. Unplugged from tan/yellow to batt. Negative post and spout plugged in is 39.4 ohms. What next?

That reading seems reasonable to me. Shake, rattle, twist, and roll the connector to make sure there isn't some intermittent contact.

Clean the connectors, reassemble with dielectric grease, and try running it again.

 

[5.0-5MT]

That reading seems reasonable to me. Shake, rattle, twist, and roll the connector to make sure there isn't some intermittent contact.

Clean the connectors, reassemble with dielectric grease, and try running it again.

Shake it while testing the ohms?

 

[Noobz347]

Shake it while testing the ohms?

More or less. Try and hook the leads up to the connector so that they [stay].

Work your way down the harness, moving/bending/etc..,

You're trying to find the reason for that code to spit out. If it's not the EEC, then it's a sensor or wiring. We didn't see any sensor codes so...

 

[5.0-5MT]

Do you think this might have something to do with it? Not sure if it's factory but it was plugged in between my computer plug and the computer itself. The 10mm bolt was not reach and I'm pretty sure this is why.

 

[5.0-5MT]

I don't see any Ford part numbers on it.

 

[5.0-5MT]

Did the wiggle test. Before I started it, the resistance was 39.7 ohms. It seems to me that as I was shaking where it test "resistor" on the wire loom, the resistance went down to 39.5. I could get it to vary between 39.5 and 39.6 ohms and now it's steady at 39.5. coincidence? Nothing else seemed to change the resistance.

 

[Noobz347]

Did the wiggle test. Before I started it, the resistance was 39.7 ohms. It seems to me that as I was shaking where it test "resistor" on the wire loom, the resistance went down to 39.5. I could get it to vary between 39.5 and 39.6 ohms and now it's steady at 39.5. coincidence? Nothing else seemed to change the resistance.

That much change seems insignificant to me.

Now, the range is [high] though I don't consider it crazy. It may be enough to cause trouble?