tune or tweecer?

stevinwayne said:
yes they do, any decent tuner will fix all driveability issues as well as make more power top end....

you guys just are so blind by the tweecer... sure it's a good product, but i don't get caught up in the hype. 500+ dollars for the tweecer, then the wide band, then then you need a laptop, with xp pro.

or drive, or trailor your car to a tuner, pay the 350 dollars then dyno time. somewhere under 500 bucks and you can have a car that runs well and makes power. for even cheaper than the price of a tweecer alone.

AND on top of that, you have no learning curve to worry about as well as a trained professional WHO KNOWS what he his doing tuning your car.

now if you plan on adding parts later, you can go back to the tuning shop, and i've heard of them working a deal with you. but for me when i did my combo, i did it all at once none of the, lets install this, and then hopefully later on i can add heads to the combo. I tried to plan ahead enough so that i have a fully built long block ready to drop in then go to the tune shop. i don't want to have to guess around and then wonder if it'll work with my other mods and have to worry about a tune, i like to get it all out of the way at once.

/end rant

Don't see why you feel a need to rant:shrug:

but .........................

I have seen some of those Pro Tunes and very little was done to make more wot power and NOTHING was done to help with drivability.

I'm not saying ALL pro tuners turn out work like that but some do.

Pro Tune or Self Tune ...... its all the same in the fact that the tuner has to have the knowledge to make things right.

Just cause you pay for a tune don't mean you get a tune that is any better than a self tune.

One advantage of self tuning is you can work with it until you are satisfied.

I don't have anything against a Pro Tune but IMHO, it is no more a sure fire method of having no probs than self tuning.

From time to time, you see peeps in these threads who have had probs with either method of tuning.

Grady
 
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For me, it was all about doing it myself. I built the shortblock, I put it all together, I do the work. Having to rely on someone to "tune" my car for me was just silly. I mean, if I go out and change from 36 lb injectors to 42's (which I did), I'd have to pay someone to change 2 cells in a computer program. Sorry, I can do it myself. I bought one of the first Tweecer R/T's that were available. There was not alot of info out there back then, but that's not the case now.
In fact, with a good datalog and a 50.00 program (EEC Analyzer), most of the numbers can be calculated for you.
There is NO way a dyno-tune can get rid of your drivability issues, because of the adaptive strategy our computers use. Sure, it's good when you leave, but give it a day or two, and the computer has "learned" a few things, and now it's stalling again, or idling at 1500 rpm.
Anyway, that's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it...
 
I am going the direction of a chip rather than a tweecer. It's a personal decision I know. But for me, it's great b/c:

#1 I am doing some major changes soon and leaving it that way for a long time. I will wait until I get the injectors and heads and then just get it burned once and forget about it.

#2 a lot Less money than all the other "add-ins" that you either really should have or get addicted to.

#3 I will only be doing it one time and not playing with the dam car all the time. (Finding a reputable place is probably key here)

The tuner works for folks that are constantly making changes and need/want a tune now, have plenty of timeto play with it, etc. I have heard of a lot of great places you can get a tune and even mail order. Maybe we can post some reliable places.

"There is NO way a dyno-tune can get rid of your drivability issues, because of the adaptive strategy our computers use."

I have heard this is the case for the piggy back system but NOT the burned chip b/c it can't re-route a physical burn but can re-adjust or fight the "piggybacker."
 
final5-0 said:
Don't see why you feel a need to rant:shrug:

but .........................

I have seen some of those Pro Tunes and very little was done to make more wot power and NOTHING was done to help with drivability.

I'm not saying ALL pro tuners turn out work like that but some do.

Pro Tune or Self Tune ...... its all the same in the fact that the tuner has to have the knowledge to make things right.

Just cause you pay for a tune don't mean you get a tune that is any better than a self tune.

One advantage of self tuning is you can work with it until you are satisfied.

I don't have anything against a Pro Tune but IMHO, it is no more a sure fire method of having no probs than self tuning.

From time to time, you see peeps in these threads who have had probs with either method of tuning.

Grady


i see what everyone is saying about self-tune vs pro-tune, and i know some of you may not live in area where i do that there is 3 performance shops walking distance from my house and over a dozen in the area (dallas)... i actually know the tuners personally and hang out with the workers of dallas mustang, and lonestar performance. so i'm sort of at an advantage there because i know both of the tuners there know their stuff and since i talk to them frequently they wont screw me over and if a problem ever comes up they will fix it... if i lived out in the middle of nowhere and didn't have a shop 100 miles away i'd go the tweecer rout but eh... to each his own.:spot:
 
CManT1914 said:
Okay we need a definite answer here. Can a dyno-tune take care of part throttle efficiency and driving issues such as low-rpm bucking, hanging idle and so forth? We need a REAL answer!


yes mike wilson at dallas mustang and manny at hpp motorsports said that with the right dyno tune they can fix any idle/low rpm problems.
 
Pokageek said:
The tuner works for folks that are constantly making changes and need/want a tune now, have plenty of timeto play with it, etc. I have heard of a lot of great places you can get a tune and even mail order. Maybe we can post some reliable places.
im sorry, but a mail order tune is just pointless.sure you can get one and the tuner will easily burn you a chip that SHOULD work with your mods, but the bottom line is that every car is different. just because you have the same mods as someone else on paper, doesnt mean your tuning needs are going to be the same. EVERY car is different, even with all the same stuff. will the car run with a mail order tune? most likely. will it make more power? possibly. will it be the best it can be when the tuner is tuning blind and doesnt have the car strapped to a dyno? absolutely not. if you are going with a one shot chip burn, find a reputable local guy that is also willing to work with you when the adaptive strategy the eec uses requires changes to the tune over time. if you are the do it yourself type, it all boils down to personal preference. both the tweecer and pms are kickass units, however both are quite different even though the concept is the same. good luck with it.
 
stevinwayne said:
i see what everyone is saying about self-tune vs pro-tune, and i know some of you may not live in area where i do that there is 3 performance shops walking distance from my house and over a dozen in the area (dallas)... i actually know the tuners personally and hang out with the workers of dallas mustang, and lonestar performance. so i'm sort of at an advantage there because i know both of the tuners there know their stuff and since i talk to them frequently they wont screw me over and if a problem ever comes up they will fix it... if i lived out in the middle of nowhere and didn't have a shop 100 miles away i'd go the tweecer rout but eh... to each his own.:spot:

You have the most important point covered if you're gonna get a Pro Tune.
Know that your guy has had success with other 94-95 Stangs and he will stand behind his work if your not satisfied.

IMHO, these tuning threads seem to always to try and paint a picture that shows tuning your Stang is either .................. BLACK or WHITE.

Here is a few things I've seen over the years from when this tuning stuff really started to take off and up to where we are at this time.

I live between Fort Worth & Dallas so I also have Pro Tuners around me but I'm just the kind of guy that doesn't want anyone to work on my Stang but me.

I went the self tuning route cause I wanted to be in control of my tune just like I want to be in control of the quality of build up on my combo. I'm picky about how things should be done so ...... I just do em myself.

Earlier in this thread Dennis said you could get a Dyno tune and a few days later the adaptive strategy in the pcm could change things to the point that drivability issues may return. I agree, that could happen ...... not saying it will mind you ...... but it could.

I went the Tweecer route for the datalogging mostly. The price was not as important to me as the ability to have the hard data to confirm my tuning tweecs. The dlogs do tell you if you went the right direction with a change. I can tell you, everything in that little silver box doesn't always work like you think and I have on more than one occasion, went the wrong way with a tuning change, lol. To me, hard data is way more accurate than the seat of the pants meter.

Pro Tune or Self Tune is gonna be just as good as the guy who is doing the work.

How good can your tune be?
If talkin wot ...... that is cake compared to drivability
Most of us have street cars so we need BOTH conditions to be right

On a scale of 1 to 10...you can get a 10...if you work with it...Pro or Self
The question you gotta ask yourself is this..............
Is the tuner gonna work with it to the point that the tune is right, AND most importantly, is the tune STABLE after the adaptive strategy has done its thing.

I don't know everything about tuning our Stangs and I don't claim to know as much as some of the Pro Tuners that are out there. I do try to be very careful when trying to help the members here and with the info I share with everybody in these kinds of threads.

Having said that here is some info based on what things I have seen happen with my Stang.

With a focus on drivability issues, I have come to see that in some situations, if you get pretty close with your tune ...... the adaptive strategy can and will make up for the small bit of difference.

however

In other situations, I've seen the tune deteriorate and to make it right, I had to go back in there and get things closer for a stable tune.

If that happens..................
a self tuner can just make the change
a chip is gonna need to be reburned again

Thats why some can get things to be fairly stable with mechanical tuning methods and some can't. It all depends on how close things are to begin with.

Again, I don't understand it all and I do continue to learn.

Just trying to say I don't see all of this tuning stuff as Black or White.

For me .................................. I see it in shades of GRAY:D

Grady
 
Either way Final, looks like you have done a great job on your own. If we are losing 20% through driveline, that would make your car 366HP at the flywheel. Pretty good.

BTW, if I may ask. What did you have to change to get your car to the point you were happy with both the driveability and HP rating? Was it a lot?
 
Pokageek said:
Either way Final, looks like you have done a great job on your own. If we are losing 20% through driveline, that would make your car 366HP at the flywheel. Pretty good.

My car is nothing unusual compared to similar combos and and it has not put up numbers as good as most of them.

My tuning results as well are nothing unusal as many have done the same and most likely, better, lol.

The dyno chart you see is only baseline results because they were obtained with a few stock parts. Those parts have been upgraded but I haven't been back to the dyno to see the gain from them.

The seat of pants meter tells me it pulls harder and the airflow values in my dlogs has increased from the new parts so I do expect the numbers to be somewhat higher when I can get back to the dyno again.

BTW, if I may ask. What did you have to change to get your car to the point you were happy with both the driveability and HP rating? Was it a lot?

I did not think I had changed much but several peeps who have looked at my tune thought it was a lot, lol.

I have been at this for a while now and I guess its just one of those things of ...... learn a little, tune a little, learn a little more, tune a little more, and over time, the changes have grown.

You ask about what I changed to make me happy with the outcome.

Drivability Conditions

I'm quite happy with the outcome. The car behaves just like a stocker in all ways except for a bit of cam lope at an idle of about 800 to 850 rpm.

Key or Main tweecs to the tune:

accurate maf curve
throttle body air flow
isc neutral idle air flow
various inj tweecs
inj timing

WOT Conditions

I'm very happy with the outcome but if I did it again ...............
I could do better with the knowledge I have gained in the ability to tune ......

When I put this combo together I didn't have the confidence to go more aggressive with the cam specs and such so my concern for drivability issues resulted in the numbers being a bit less than they could have been.

Don't get me wrong, the torque curve turned out better than I expected and that was my number one priority. Peeps who have driven the car don't think I am still using the stock short block.

The car is really fun to drive around on the street but......................
I could get a bit better results and not give up anything.
Live and Learn is the outcome I guess, lol.

Key or Main tweecs to the tune:

Just the spark and fuel tables

I must say the dlogs and wide band is what made that happen with not too much of a hassle.

Nothing I've done is really any kind of Black Magic:shrug:

You just keep hosing around with stuff until it works:D

Grady
 
I want to get into personal tuning. Whats the difference between a PMS and a Tweecer? What do they even mean? How do they hook up, do they plug into the computer harness and connects to a labtop? I have a labtop so im sure thats a plus. I have no idea what a PMS is? is it a handheld tuner or is it like a labtop program like a tweecer is? Sounds like a tweecer would be a little better since it has the datalogging feature.
 
i ended up going with a superchip. My car has a blow through maf, and 42 lbs inj, and it drives damn near stock....idles good also. Another thing to think about, is that i think they sell a "racer" kit so you can re-tune the chips yourself?
 
Go with the chip and get a good tuner to tune it. I have a tweecer r/t and a wideband and pulled it out and put in a SCT. Its alot more reliable and my tweecer was losing its memory quite often and I was reloading just to get the car to run.
 
My Vote is for PMS

I have a 95 Cobra Clone, stock shortblock and cam (as in from factory) with GT40P Heads, 1.7 Harland Sharp Rockers, 70mm TB, Junkyard Explorer Intake, Anderson PowerPipe, Anderson PMS, 42lb Injectors (oversized for use with the Dry NOS system) made 299HP to the tires hotlapping on the dyno (could have easily made over 300 with a cool down)
Starts, runs, drives like a Bone Stocker! Car weighs 3480 with me in it (still has all options, Power everything, working A/C, Mach460 Sound System, etc) Went consistent 12.40's at 107-109. Then with NOS 11.20's over 121mph.:nice:

Get the PMS, it can grow with your needs, can be used with handheld or buy Software to use to tune, datalog, etc.on a laptop if you want. I went the chip route and the 2 times I had it changed, for NOS, system changes, I wish I had just gotten the PMS to begin with!!