Progress Thread Vortech V3 Install

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 90lxwhite, Apr 30, 2014.

  1. Took a break from the thread cause I knew it was delayed, but great to see it installed and ready for a tune :nice:
    I vote for the upgraded injectors and tune also.
    #121 Grabbin' Asphalt, May 14, 2014
    Last edited: May 14, 2014

  2. This was a fabulous exchange btw :rlaugh:
  3. Read it again....

    Half of $300 would be $150. ;)

    I've bought and run used injectors half a dozen times. Never have I had an issue. Injectors are one of those parts that just takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Generally, the biggest worry you have with used injectors is whether or not they need a cleaning.

    Had to be done. :D
  4. Even in Kanadia. :D
  5. + HST
  6. In order for the belt routing to work properly you will need a smog delete bracket to replace the missing smog pump.
  7. The fmu really does work well in a mostly stock application. Its designed to do a certain job and performs well when used as designed. As far as I'm concerned spin the dyno rollers or simply install a wide band and see where you are at. If thebaf ratio is acceptable then rock it the way it is. If not then tune it. The increased cost of mass air and injectors may be unwarranted.

    As for used injectors... I am not a fan. I will only consider buying used injectors after they have been cleaned, flow tested and proven to be in good order. I have seen plenty of people wind up screwed because they tried to save a few bucks. Just last year I had 4 160 lb injectors fail on me personally. When put under a back pressure on the discharge side (under boost) they would lock up. I bought them used and after only using them for a year or so I've now replaced them with brand new bilet atomizers...
    Noobz347 likes this.
  8. I ran an FMU and 19s for several years. I even got pretty good at making small adjustments to the setup to keep AFR in the sweet spot.

    Either method can be done very well. Larger injectors etc. are the path for the long haul where continued improvements requiring more fuel will be made.
  9. Ha you got me... $300 new. As for the ribbing I'm a whitty basta&d I can hang w the best of em. As per the injectors; man I hear ya but just don't have the scratch.
  10. 160 lb injectors!?!?
  11. This is the power level I will be at for the relatively long haul. I'm calling it done under the hood (for now maybe) and moving on to interior. The interior project might be slow going at first, I gotta recover from this $upercharger. Upon completion of the interior it will be a "finished" project. So maybe after that who knows may do heads etc. I know y'all hate it but I'm going to go on and say it: Anyone wanna guess my rwhp now? Before the v3 I made 223.
  12. T-stat housing leak.
  13. AHHH P.I.T.A.
  14. I always suck at em. Measure once, cut twice....
  15. Great progress on your S/C though :nice:.
  16. Thanks man. Anyone know where to set the in car controller knob for the msd box? The one that's 0,1,2,3. I have a mild cam, ported ho lower and e7's if that provides any useful info. Oh and fmu 19#ers
  17. You referring to the timing retard knob?
  18. General rule of thumb is to retard 1-deg per psi. You should be beyond safe with those numbers, but as with anything though, that's just a general rule. Test, Test, Test!!! Pay close attention and listen for detonation.

    Make your pulls start at lugging RPM in 3rd gear with the car at full operating temperature.

    Was this not all outlined in your install manual?
    85rkyboby likes this.
  19. None the less, those numbers are the amount of timing that will be retarded/pulled per lb. of boost.