Will a dry kit work on a 01 Cobra.

droptopsnake01

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May 12, 2004
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I was told by a guy that a dry kit won't work on a 01 Cobra b/c it has a returnless fuel system. He said that only a wet kit would work. Well the Mustang shop in my town (Carolina Mustang) said that a dry kit would work great. They actually have a kit for $360. Compucar Bottle in a Bag. Any of you guys have N2O on your car?

Help me out. :shrug:
 
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I was told that wet was not safer. And to tell you the truth I can see why. Dont have to worry about puddling, also the intake wasnt designed to have liquid in it, also you have to worry about the "mix" etc. With a dry kit your car automatically retards the timing, its a gas etc. It will be no more than a 100 shot. How would a wet kit be any safer? Whats so UNsafe about a dry kit?
 
I think the reason why a dry kit might not be as safe as a wet kit is because you are relying on the computer to compensate for the added oxygen by adding more fuel...if it can't provide enough fuel for some reason or if you hit the limiter which cuts fuel, BANG goes the motor....With a wet kit, it adds the fuel so the computer doesn't have to so the fuel is much more regulated...

I'm not completely sure that's the reason, but I think that's the gist of it...
 
Well with this kit it has a hand held button that you push to use the nitrous, so I dont have to worry about hitting my revlimiter. Also for the air/fuel I could just get a saftey swith to shut it down if the air fuel is not right.

Also I was thinking about getting some pillar guages. Which ones should I get? Fuel Pressure and Air Fuel.?? The Bottle pressure guage will be right on the bottle.
 
I have a 99 cobra. I was wondering where i could get a dry kit. What price range am i looking? what kinda power would i see with it? what would it cost to get it installed? thanks in advance and sorry in advance for not knowing anythign about juice. .... guess ya still call it juice if it is dry.
 
Dry kit is the safest. Alot of the really fast cars run dry shots because there easier to tune.

Wet is you more power than dry but if you want the best hit you get the direct port kit.

With the nos you'll need to run cooler plugs like NGK. You can get those just about anywhere.

As for the A/F ratio gauge that isn't for looks. If i didn't have that gauge my motor would have been done. I do have a oil and fuel pressure gauges but those didn't tell me i was running lean. I use the oil/fuel pressure gauges to make sure everything is alright wth the motor that the a/f maybe not be able to read.

Run a dry shot of 125, with a window switch, kooler plugs,bottle heater, and full throttle activater. Use the full throttle activater because you don't have to worry about pressing the button.
 
missouri_guy197 said:
I think the reason why a dry kit might not be as safe as a wet kit is because you are relying on the computer to compensate for the added oxygen by adding more fuel...if it can't provide enough fuel for some reason or if you hit the limiter which cuts fuel, BANG goes the motor....With a wet kit, it adds the fuel so the computer doesn't have to so the fuel is much more regulated...

I'm not completely sure that's the reason, but I think that's the gist of it...


That's what I was told. All the guys I know are running wet kits. You can get a safety switch to cut it off if anything goes wrong.
 
It will be about 1000-1200 dollars to get everything.

I know its a lot but all those stories you hear," I blow my motor w/spray" is true but only because they spent 200 dollars for a used kit. A kit that most likely done wrong to begine with.

You can run at 125 shot no problem.
 
i wouldnt use the bottle in a bag kit with the button. its just too risky for my tastes. if for some reason you are holding that button and you arent WOT, boom goes the motor. a microswitch is much much easier and safer, and a window switch to boot will be perfect.