sensor in lower intake
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BlooDReigN
Member
Gonna have to clarify a little...
"a sencer just thown"
What does that mean? The computer is throwing a code?
"the sencer to aceleest the car when its cold"
What do you mean 'aceleest'???
I am assuming you are talking about the ACT, but your description is a little vague.
Where is the sensor located?
jason
Bad puncuation is a
when communicating in a written format.Full sentences, periods, and commas will help you to convey your message better.
Not trying to rip on you, but it will make life easier for all of us.
302RollinHard
New Member
That was funny Bloodreign.
In answer to your question, you will find the air charge temp sensor in the lower intake. And it won't let your car run properly without it.
TheBocSez
New Member
Bad puncuation is a
Full sentences, periods, and commas will help you to convey your message better.
Not trying to rip on you, but it will make life easier for all of us.
So true!! This has just become my new sig!
That makes sense then.
Yes, you need the ACT. With EFI there aren't exactly "optional" sensors on the engine. A new one is only $25 from a parts store
Yes, you need the ACT. With EFI there aren't exactly "optional" sensors on the engine. A new one is only $25 from a parts store
It will get hot and register false readings.
Airbox, or tap into lower intake. Don't just let it sit there
Airbox, or tap into lower intake. Don't just let it sit there
How do you mean in between the upper and lower?
would it be sampling the intake air?
The computer uses the ACT to adjust fuel and timing. The influence the ACT has is not major, but it is best to keep the computer 'in the know' regarding what is really happening.
Hooking it up to the air box is a decent plan.
Leaving it resting on the intake is not a real good plan.
jason
would it be sampling the intake air?
The computer uses the ACT to adjust fuel and timing. The influence the ACT has is not major, but it is best to keep the computer 'in the know' regarding what is really happening.
Hooking it up to the air box is a decent plan.
Leaving it resting on the intake is not a real good plan.
jason
Skoobie
Damn...Tyler65's hot!
Since this has come up before, I decided to do a little research using the tweecer to check how the computer might react to lower than expected ACT temps/readings.
Here is my new writeup...
Hope it helps,
jason
How will the Fox computer react to the ACT being moved from the lower intake to the Intake Airbox?
Thumbing through the TwEECer (CalEdit) this is what can be seen...
In the X3Z Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine idle rpm after about 192F, maxing out at 64rpm by 208F
FN 220 - EGR Multiplier is 0 until 58F, maxes out at 1 by 60F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* by 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is unaffected by ACT (always 1)
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning
In the A9L Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine rpm by 48rpm at 200F, and a max of 72rpm at 226F
EGR Multiplier is .8 until 0F, then rises to a max of 1 by 56F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* at 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is .64 until -40F, .81 by 0F, and maxes out at 1 by 76F
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning
So what does this mean?
Idle speed – Obviously for both calibrations the affect is going to be minimal, assuming all other idle contributors are working properly. Moving the ACT to a cooler location should not have a major impact on idle speed.
EGR – Moving the ACT to a cooler location will affect the function of the EGR. It would not be recommended to try and pass an emissions test with the ACT in the airbox on a cold day (below 60F).
Spark – The Spark Advance is RETARDED with higher temps. Moving the ACT to the airbox can help to keep ignition timing higher. However, keep in mind that Ford used the ACT as a ‘Safety Factor’ for preventing high temp detonation. False information to the EEC-IV will make detonation more likely when the engine is warm/hot.
Fuel Multiplier – The Fuel Multiplier increases with higher ACT temps. Due to the low temps at which the ACT will impact the Fuel Multiplier this is not likely to cause an issue.
Adaptive Strategy – This may be the most critical one for most daily driver Mustangs. Not allowing the Adaptive Control to function (because the ACT never sees 100F in the airbox), could hurt fuel economy and could cause drivability issues.
Here is my new writeup...
Hope it helps,
jason
How will the Fox computer react to the ACT being moved from the lower intake to the Intake Airbox?
Thumbing through the TwEECer (CalEdit) this is what can be seen...
In the X3Z Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine idle rpm after about 192F, maxing out at 64rpm by 208F
FN 220 - EGR Multiplier is 0 until 58F, maxes out at 1 by 60F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* by 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is unaffected by ACT (always 1)
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning
In the A9L Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine rpm by 48rpm at 200F, and a max of 72rpm at 226F
EGR Multiplier is .8 until 0F, then rises to a max of 1 by 56F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* at 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is .64 until -40F, .81 by 0F, and maxes out at 1 by 76F
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning
So what does this mean?
Idle speed – Obviously for both calibrations the affect is going to be minimal, assuming all other idle contributors are working properly. Moving the ACT to a cooler location should not have a major impact on idle speed.
EGR – Moving the ACT to a cooler location will affect the function of the EGR. It would not be recommended to try and pass an emissions test with the ACT in the airbox on a cold day (below 60F).
Spark – The Spark Advance is RETARDED with higher temps. Moving the ACT to the airbox can help to keep ignition timing higher. However, keep in mind that Ford used the ACT as a ‘Safety Factor’ for preventing high temp detonation. False information to the EEC-IV will make detonation more likely when the engine is warm/hot.
Fuel Multiplier – The Fuel Multiplier increases with higher ACT temps. Due to the low temps at which the ACT will impact the Fuel Multiplier this is not likely to cause an issue.
Adaptive Strategy – This may be the most critical one for most daily driver Mustangs. Not allowing the Adaptive Control to function (because the ACT never sees 100F in the airbox), could hurt fuel economy and could cause drivability issues.
The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.
If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.
6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing
Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".
If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.
6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing
Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".
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