Heads Are Off.........images And Thoughts On Piston

[from6to8]

I agree.

There is no way id get that close to the bottom end without pulling it apart for a fresh set of bearings and the works, unless the motor was already recently freshend up.

However, that piston scrub probably won't kill a deal if you just want to throw it back together...

the only reason, only reason why i want to sort of wait is because im not totally sure if i just want to do a 306 maybe with or without a supercharger or either a 331 with or without an SC. Truth is financially right now i dont want to get the SC though I can but a new truck is in store for me before yr is out or by end of the yr and it aint going to be cheap for what i want. So at the least i will get the head back and do a leak down test on the no. 2 cylinder, or better yet the whole side while I'm at it. I was hoping to just get the thing back together, not having spend much money and doing all labor myself minus the heads, and then taking my time and planning my next build. That's providing the leak down test shows good . Also i rubbed my finger over the whole area and didnt feel any gasket material or anything. It appears there is some on there but i've learned over the years of cleaning up the areas of any gasket surface of anything that as old as the metal is, there appears to be some gasket that has embedded into the metal and if you take a razor blade and try and dig in, you will actually dig into the metal and it leave unevenness and scratching. results

what do you mean won't kill a deal?

and while im at it i might as well post images of the one side i just cleaned and to see what you guys think if its fine or not. Just used elbow grease and laquer thinner, carb cleaner, and some foam action cleaner. Damn carbon on the pistons seemed as good as i could get it.

 

[from6to8]

I agree.

There is no way id get that close to the bottom end without pulling it apart for a fresh set of bearings and the works, unless the motor was already recently freshend up.

However, that piston scrub probably won't kill a deal if you just want to throw it back together...

I agree.

There is no way id get that close to the bottom end without pulling it apart for a fresh set of bearings and the works, unless the motor was already recently freshend up.

However, that piston scrub probably won't kill a deal if you just want to throw it back together...

is it necessary to absoulutely get all of the carbon off of the pistons when cleaning the block? I'm just wondering the importance of it that's all. Darn things are stubborn using elbow grease thats for sure.

 

[84Ttop]

I wouldn't waste too much time trying to clean the pistons. The deck surface on the block is what I would focus on being clean.

 

[1200gt]

is it necessary to absoulutely get all of the carbon off of the pistons when cleaning the block? I'm just wondering the importance of it that's all. Darn things are stubborn using elbow grease thats for sure.

Answer: 84Ttop is right...
Not to the last milligram, but part of having a balanced motor requires piston weight that is calculated into the equations for the final balance. I hardly think you are going for this level of balance So, No, just clean the pistons as best you can. Marvel Mystery Oil can help with this. Just soak the tops down with it and let it sit, then come back later and wipe it off - carbon too.

These motors, if reasonable maintained, can run for hundreds of thousands miles. The reason I said pull the rest and do the bottom bearings is that it is so easy to do from where you have the motor apart - most of the work is done.

Putting fresh heads and other HP parts on top of an old set of crank bearings will add extra stress to them. It all comes down to the condition of the motor before you pulled it apart, and base on the dropped valve issue, it was not handled very kindly. Once reassembled and driven kindly, it could last a long time with the bottom end done, but on the other hand, it could start a lower knock very shortly from added stress of the freshened heads.

It's the chances we take and the decisions we make that ultimately determines our success in life. How about that for a little philosophy.

EDIT:
I just went back up an looked at the latest picks that you posted and read your plans for the motor. Base on what you mentioned, I would do just that. Put it back together as is, nurse is for a while and get the truck you want. Later as money flows, start pooling together part for the new motor. As for the gasket filled holes: As long as the surface is smooth to where a new gasket will lay perfect flat on the block, you will have done a good job. Yes, sometimes picking out the little holes is not necessary as casting often have little voids from manufacturing. BTW, those pistons look clean enough. Good Luck!

 

[from6to8]

Answer: 84Ttop is right...
Not to the last milligram, but part of having a balanced motor requires piston weight that is calculated into the equations for the final balance. I hardly think you are going for this level of balance So, No, just clean the pistons as best you can. Marvel Mystery Oil can help with this. Just soak the tops down with it and let it sit, then come back later and wipe it off - carbon too.

These motors, if reasonable maintained, can run for hundreds of thousands miles. The reason I said pull the rest and do the bottom bearings is that it is so easy to do from where you have the motor apart - most of the work is done.

Putting fresh heads and other HP parts on top of an old set of crank bearings will add extra stress to them. It all comes down to the condition of the motor before you pulled it apart, and base on the dropped valve issue, it was not handled very kindly. Once reassembled and driven kindly, it could last a long time with the bottom end done, but on the other hand, it could start a lower knock very shortly from added stress of the freshened heads.

It's the chances we take and the decisions we make that ultimately determines our success in life. How about that for a little philosophy.

EDIT:
I just went back up an looked at the latest picks that you posted and read your plans for the motor. Base on what you mentioned, I would do just that. Put it back together as is, nurse is for a while and get the truck you want. Later as money flows, start pooling together part for the new motor. As for the gasket filled holes: As long as the surface is smooth to where a new gasket will lay perfect flat on the block, you will have done a good job. Yes, sometimes picking out the little holes is not necessary as casting often have little voids from manufacturing. BTW, those pistons look clean enough. Good Luck!

yes some people most think i dont even drive my car hard enough. They think i just have a pretty mustang lol because i dont dawg it out but i do get into it sometimes and keep it blowed out. I just dont kill it everytime i get in it. Yeah i'm thinking maybe my valve lash wasnt set correctly from wayyy back in 04 and not sure if over the yrs they could have loosened, or that one loosened . But acually it was tight though , the nut on the rocker so it wasnt loose. The ones on the drivers side the rockers moved a little side to side before i took them off.

Yeah i will probably go ahead and do a leak down test though after i get the heads back and at least on that side where the spring broke

and I dont want to buy marvelous oil just to clean the pistons more but will see what i have lying around that might or i might can let soak on them

 

[from6to8]

That's the big one. How much money do you have to spend right now? I'm sure that piston can be repaired. I know it would cost about the same as a new piston, but that one is already broken in with the engine, and is going to seal fine with no block machine work. Pull the valve out of the head and check the seat with your fingernail. Run your fingernail around the valve seat. If it catches anywhere, it's most likely going to need a professional valve job. If not, then it can most likely be lapped in just fine with valve grinding compound; which is basically just to match a new valve to an old seat.

Kurt

there are no sharp edges on the piston as I can feel. Does it need to be sanded and if so with what or what grit? Scuffing up the piston top isnt good is it ?

also i will post another pic below and on the no. 1 piston i saw a few small little tiny nicks and wondering if they need to be sanded or something. I mean a few tiny , tiny , tiny ones. I am going to rebuild later on when absolutely necessary and probably going to do a 302 but right now I aint really convinced this joker is in need of it but I mainly want to know about rather it needs sanding or not?

 

[revhead347]

It's good to go. Leave it alone. No sanding, and don't worry about a few small nicks.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

It's good to go. Leave it alone. No sanding, and don't worry about a few small nicks.

Kurt

cool cool

 

[from6to8]

It's good to go. Leave it alone. No sanding, and don't worry about a few small nicks.

Kurt

is that ptfe on ALL of the head bolts?

 

[revhead347]

Yes, all the head bolts.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

Yes, all the head bolts.

Kurt

safe to use that on the water pump bolts that go in water jacket as well?

hell since i bought that little tube for 7 bucks if it wont hurt should i use them on all of my bolts on intake , ect