http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_393w.htm
$2199 for a 393 "Street Fighter-GT" short block. damn hard to beat that ...
$2199 for a 393 "Street Fighter-GT" short block. damn hard to beat that ...
393W for $2199 ... damn
- Thread starter BlackVert
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ruh roh ... hehe ... i guess that makes me shaggy, afraid that something is terribly wrong with my motor
i was just flipping thru my latest 5.0 mag and i came across it.
still don't know much ... car runs pretty good with the new plugs, but still burning oil. had another cloud of smoke at start up today. i just filled up yesterday and it needed oil. next fill up (at the end of the week), i'll check how much oil it needs.
no knocking under normal part throttle conditions. i don't want to step on it because i don't want to make it any worse than it already is.
i was just flipping thru my latest 5.0 mag and i came across it.
still don't know much ... car runs pretty good with the new plugs, but still burning oil. had another cloud of smoke at start up today. i just filled up yesterday and it needed oil. next fill up (at the end of the week), i'll check how much oil it needs.
no knocking under normal part throttle conditions. i don't want to step on it because i don't want to make it any worse than it already is.
reddy351
10 Year Member
If it's blue smoke when you start it and under heavy acceleration, it sounds like valve seals. Since one plug was fouled, maybe you have a bent valve or really worn valve guide. (Of course, if maybe it was over-revved, it could be all of the above with a side order of cracked piston. Floating the valves can do that.) Just a thought.
i never rev it past 5000, so that rules over-revving it out.Reddy351 said:
can valve seals be checked without taking off the heads? leakdown test?
SorsCode
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
my is going under the stock hood. Engine isn't in yet, But the test engine I built with the intake i'm using fit just fine.
Chris, you're right about the leakdown helping to narrow things down. The compression test told you that your compression is decent (gotta walk before you run). The leakdown would further narrow things down. I agree with Reddy about valve guides often being the cause of smoke upon start up (oil seeps into the chambers overnight). Is that normally a biggie ?- IMHO a little bit is ok.
Tom Moss has an article (IIRC) about making a homemade leakdown tester. It's something I always meant to piece together when time allowed. You need an air compressor to use it though. I'll dig around for the article if it would be of interest to you.
Good luck.
Tom Moss has an article (IIRC) about making a homemade leakdown tester. It's something I always meant to piece together when time allowed. You need an air compressor to use it though. I'll dig around for the article if it would be of interest to you.
Good luck.
I have a 96-98 Cobra hood, which I think provides a little more clearance than a stock one, so if Mr. SorsCode can get his under his stock hood, then I should have success there too.
I'll ask my mechanic how much he charges for a leakdown test.
Can one fix valve seals or guides without pulling the heads? I am guessing the answer to this is "no".
I'll ask my mechanic how much he charges for a leakdown test.
Can one fix valve seals or guides without pulling the heads? I am guessing the answer to this is "no".
reddy351
10 Year Member
You can swap seals with the heads on the car. Need a compressor for that, too. Put the lifters on the base circle of the cam (both valves closed) and apply pressure to the cylinder. That will hold the valves in place while you remove the keepers and springs. Need a topside valve spring compressor. (Easy to find.) You can also shove a bunch of rope into the spark plug hole and slowly rotate the engine till both valves are being pushed up by the rope. (It's a little "ghetto" but it works. 
) Guides are a different story.
Who is charging $1000 for headers and intake for a 351W?!!!!! Headers from Summit= $209 351W/FI Intake from Ebay=$200-300...max. A lot less than $1000.
) Guides are a different story.Who is charging $1000 for headers and intake for a 351W?!!!!! Headers from Summit= $209 351W/FI Intake from Ebay=$200-300...max. A lot less than $1000.
ive been reading up on the same thing, but with emissions i dunno if i its worth it. id love to make 400 to the wheel with no power adder, but might be easier to do a 306+blower (for me at least). 
thread i found on corral..
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71931&highlight=351w+combos
posted yesterday by someone..
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=1612.0
thread i found on corral..
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71931&highlight=351w+combos
posted yesterday by someone..
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=1612.0
easier, maybe, but the cost would alot higher that way, and i need a new bottom end anyway.Suspect said:ive been reading up on the same thing, but with emissions i dunno if i its worth it. id love to make 400 to the wheel with no power adder, but might be easier to do a 306+blower (for me at least).
thread i found on corral..
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71931&highlight=351w+combos
posted yesterday by someone..
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=1612.0
i was talking about myself, cuz if i did do it id want to do it with all the right parts. and when picking h/c/i i have to get parts that are going to be emissions friendly. id much rather have all motor setup then to go with a s/c. i also have alot of miles on my block and would like to replace it, thats why im looking. i actually just got a quote from dss for a 306 longblock, but then i thought why not go bigger and scratch the s/c. i havent made up my mind. im reading and trying to learn and got lots of questions.
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