It's not really that big of a deal, it is messy though. You don't want that to get anywhere you aren't wanting stripped.
All that said, some 80 grit and then 180 grit and a DA is probably the safest way to go.
Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
- Start date
All that said, some 80 grit and then 180 grit and a DA is probably the safest way to go.
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i finished pulling out all of the stretched metal in the middle of the hood today and spread out the mud.
Pictures are of the finished metal work and mud spread on the hood. Two colors of mud because the second gallon i got had a different colored hardener. works the same, just a different color.
The second picture is a paint stick laying over the left side dent
/warp caused by the sand blasting. That is bad, i showed it just to show how far down the warping is. Look at your hoods and see the difference.
Yes, it's a lot of mud.
I want to put a GT hood on my car someday, so this one will last long enough. I did get it pulled straight enough that when i sand this down there won't be a lot left.
Pictures are of the finished metal work and mud spread on the hood. Two colors of mud because the second gallon i got had a different colored hardener. works the same, just a different color.
The second picture is a paint stick laying over the left side dent
/warp caused by the sand blasting. That is bad, i showed it just to show how far down the warping is. Look at your hoods and see the difference.
Yes, it's a lot of mud.
I want to put a GT hood on my car someday, so this one will last long enough. I did get it pulled straight enough that when i sand this down there won't be a lot left.
You sir, are going to make a lot of Dusti finished pulling out all of the stretched metal in the middle of the hood today and spread out the mud.
Pictures are of the finished metal work and mud spread on the hood. Two colors of mud because the second gallon i got had a different colored hardener. works the same, just a different color.
The second picture is a paint stick laying over the left side dent
/warp caused by the sand blasting. That is bad, i showed it just to show how far down the warping is. Look at your hoods and see the difference.
Yes, it's a lot of mud.
Knock off the rough sht with a DA.
Air file.
Block that much bondo by hand!? Aahhh!
Once it starts to feel close to what I want, then I'll switch over to my hand blocks to finish off this first coat.
I had been rubbing my hand over that hood for a couple hours by the time I decided to put on the mud, so I think it was straight enough for one layer, but I lose sensitivity in perception of the feel of it after that long as well. Hopefully it'll just be a couple small patches that will need attention.
Then a glaze coat to fill in the pinholes that will surely be there in my work.
The second can of bondo I opened was a little older and much stiffer. It wouldn't spread real nice. But it was about 5:30 and I had to get to my son's football game. No time to go rob the bodymen of some of their bondo....
What would you suggest for undercoating and rear fender well coating? I have my rear end out and figure now is a good time to hit the wells and paint the underside.
Similarly , what paint would you suggest for the rear itself? Por15? Tractor paint?
Similarly , what paint would you suggest for the rear itself? Por15? Tractor paint?
Will you be cleaning out the tub area first (i.e.:wire wheeling out the old coating)?
I like POR15 as a rust preventative barrier, then spray the undercarriage with something like 3M's undercoating.
The wheel tub area needs something more substantial IMO. A sprayable seam sealer is what i used on my red car. It'll help quiet down road noise andy provide insulation.
I understand that, it's a mess cleaning them out and a pain to respray the seam sealer
More than anything I want the wells to look
Good and add some protection to the underside. From my time under there I only saw surface rust, but I figure now is s time to covet it, even if it's just simple protection
Good and add some protection to the underside. From my time under there I only saw surface rust, but I figure now is s time to covet it, even if it's just simple protection
Then for the wheel tub area, what I would do is to clean it up real good and spray a coat of undercoating on it. It'll make it look fresh that way.
With the rear end out, unless you have any real rust issues, just undercoat it all. Be sure to scuff the area first with at least a red scotchbrite to help the undercoating to stay stuck.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Ok, spent some time under the car and in the wells. I'm gonna leave the underside alone. It's about spotless. The wells and the frame in that area is 99% spotless , so I'm gonna scuff, clean, and undercoat and call it done. Don't fix was an't broke.
Thank you for you previous help.
I've figured out how to remove the windshield trim without damaging it. I used the arrowhead trim tool shown in the picture you posted. Is the same tool used to remove the door metal trim? Are the door trim clips the same as the windshield trim clips?
A couple of the windshield trim clips look a little sprung due to my learning how to use the trim removal tool. Is there a trick to replacing them?
I sanded through the black paint on the trim in a few places. Is it advisable to prime it before applying the SEM black trim paint?
I've figured out how to remove the windshield trim without damaging it. I used the arrowhead trim tool shown in the picture you posted. Is the same tool used to remove the door metal trim? Are the door trim clips the same as the windshield trim clips?
A couple of the windshield trim clips look a little sprung due to my learning how to use the trim removal tool. Is there a trick to replacing them?
I sanded through the black paint on the trim in a few places. Is it advisable to prime it before applying the SEM black trim paint?
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First, the clips. They have them just about anyplace like LMR, NPD, etc....
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-42413B/79-93-Mustang-Windshield-Molding-Clips-For-Coupe-Hatchback
The door trim is held on differently, so the tool won't help out here. Usually it's just a screw (though you might find a small rivet instead). Once you take the screw out, the belt moulding will just slide back a little and lift off. Easy peasy, lemon squeazy. Here's some replacement clips for that if any are broken. They'll need to be riveted in.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20934HDW/1987-93-Mustang-Outer-Door-Belt-Molding-Hardware-Kit
BTW, if you have an older fox like mine, or a convertible, the mouldings are slightly different. If you need that info, just ask.
@Davedacarpainter
I already got the plastic bar next to the window off and painted some time ago.
The door trim that I need to remove now is the metal trim that looks like the windshield trim. Does it use the same tool as the windshield trim?
I sanded through the black paint on the trim in a few places. Is it advisable to prime it before applying the SEM black trim paint? Should I prime the whole trim strip or just the places that I sanded through the paint to bare metal?
I already got the plastic bar next to the window off and painted some time ago.
The door trim that I need to remove now is the metal trim that looks like the windshield trim. Does it use the same tool as the windshield trim?
I sanded through the black paint on the trim in a few places. Is it advisable to prime it before applying the SEM black trim paint? Should I prime the whole trim strip or just the places that I sanded through the paint to bare metal?
I've got two t-tops, so I can't look at that trim. But if memory serves me properly, it's a press on piece of trim.
Mike just did his, let's ask him. @madmike1157 ?
I would sand and primer the whole piece of trim myself. The primer helps with adhesion and gives a small layer of "padding" under your top coat.
if you mean the piece right above the door, theres one screw at the base of the a-pillar and then its a a few clips and some gooey glue/sealer (at least mine had the sealer, nasty stuff) and it just peels off like a piece of weatherstrip.
