girl needing electrical help :(
- Thread starter dznrroses
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dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
alright fellas....shes asking a tech question here and even though its not in tech i think we can help her out.
yes the switch is in your steering column. your turn signal lever with your wiper switch is where it is. obviously its more than that but thats the part you can see without taking off the cover on the steering column. they control a lot of things like turn signals, hazards, tail lights, brake lights, etc...so when they go bad it affects all of them. it might not be that but more than likely that is what the problem is. if your dad is good at electrical stuff have him look at this wiring diagram to help him figure out whats wrong. it seems that your problems are related to the multi function switch except the tach problem. good luck
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang-87-93_Instrument-Cluster.gif
edit: i wish that diagram had the wipers in it but for some reason it doesnt. maybe there are two wires that are shorting to each other and when you turn the wipers on it trips a circuit breaker and than after it cools off everything works fine. problems like this are always hard to diagnose and harder to diagnose without actually being able to look at the car
yes the switch is in your steering column. your turn signal lever with your wiper switch is where it is. obviously its more than that but thats the part you can see without taking off the cover on the steering column. they control a lot of things like turn signals, hazards, tail lights, brake lights, etc...so when they go bad it affects all of them. it might not be that but more than likely that is what the problem is. if your dad is good at electrical stuff have him look at this wiring diagram to help him figure out whats wrong. it seems that your problems are related to the multi function switch except the tach problem. good luck
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang-87-93_Instrument-Cluster.gif
edit: i wish that diagram had the wipers in it but for some reason it doesnt. maybe there are two wires that are shorting to each other and when you turn the wipers on it trips a circuit breaker and than after it cools off everything works fine. problems like this are always hard to diagnose and harder to diagnose without actually being able to look at the car
dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Strype said:^^^ Nice guy
i try....i know how you guys like to derail talk threads. maybe daggar will move it so you guys cant derail it.
thank you so much....thats the kind of help i came here for....not information on me being a pornstar! anyways...thats alot of help...i have a haynes manual...but im sure this diagram will help me also...my windshield wiper motor under my hood is attached to that switch as well right?
thank you
thank you
dragnazz5.0 said:i try....i know how you guys like to derail talk threads. maybe daggar will move it so you guys cant derail it.
Can't prove it!!!
Her question had been answered.
Besides I'm just messing with her because she's new... and I thought seriously RsStang had seen her on MySpace... he's good I tell you I bought the whole thing
dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
dznrroses said:thank you so much....thats the kind of help i came here for....not information on me being a pornstar! but i changed my pic for ya buddy...anyways...thats alot of help...i have a haynes manual...but im sure this diagram will help me also...my windshield wiper motor under my hood is attached to that switch as well right?
thank you
the haynes manual will have the wiring diagram that you need. yes, the wiper motor is also controlled through that switch. along with the windshield washer pump.
BDASPNY
Member
you say you're from newport news va? i'm in hampton. if you have any mustang problems and would like a good mechanic to go to rodney at rocket perfromance is in NN. next to conte's bikeshop. he has plenty of cars, parts and knowledge. i go to him for all the work i can't do. they are great honest people there. always willing to help.
dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Strype said:Can't prove it!!!
Her question had been answered.
Besides I'm just messing with her because she's new... and I thought seriously RsStang had seen her on MySpace... he's good I tell you I bought the whole thing
haha, you guys amuse the hell out of me. i love seeing a thread go to hell in like two posts
dragnazz5.0 said:
We use our gift very sparingly... The locals get sorta angry sometimes and throw sticks and shrubbery...
Dozen good luck with your car and let us know how it goes
It's time for some real electrical help and no harassment...
The multifunction switch is the home of a lot of the electrical problems simply because it works so many things. The fog lights make problems because they route electrical power though the multifunction switch along with the headlight dimmer. The wiring will often overheat and start to melt the plastic connector shells. This causes intermittent connections that make things flicker and flash.
A trip to the junkyard will get a multifunction switch for less than $25. Be prepared to get the plastic connector shell for it when the switch is removed from the junk car.
A word of caution about multifunction switches is in order here. The multifunction switch (high/low beam, wiper, turn signals) are different for different years. 87-98 will work in any 87-89 car. The 90-93 switches only work in 90-93 cars. You can't put an early model switch in a late model car, nor can you put a late model switch in an early car.
Supposedly you can move the pins around to make the switches work in model years that are different from the car the switch came out of. I cannot verify that and haven’t tried it .
There are 3 Phillips head screws on the bottom of the plastic cover that cover the steering column. Remove them and the cover will come off. The multifunction switch is mounted with 2 Phillips head screws. The plastic connector shell will come of with some pulling and gentle prying. Examine the wiring closely and you may find several loose wires or cracks in the plastic connector shell. That means the shell needs to be replaced.
While you have the cover off, plan on replacing the ignition switch –($12-$15 at the auto parts store) . This is another known electrical problem.
There is a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. They overheat and sometimes catch fire.
Copy down you VIN number and call the Ford dealer nearest you. Tell them you want to see if the ignition switch recall for Fords & Mustangs was done on your car. They will ask for the VIN number & check it against the master database. If it isn't in the database, then you can schedule an appointment to have the switch replaced for free. The TSB is #95S28, and don't let them tell you that they don't do that anymore...
While the ignition switch is up for replacement, look closely at the wiring and plastic connector shells for it too. They tend to overheat and crack just like the other plastic shells do. There are several instances of wires pulling loose and causing strange problems.
The multifunction switch is the home of a lot of the electrical problems simply because it works so many things. The fog lights make problems because they route electrical power though the multifunction switch along with the headlight dimmer. The wiring will often overheat and start to melt the plastic connector shells. This causes intermittent connections that make things flicker and flash.
A trip to the junkyard will get a multifunction switch for less than $25. Be prepared to get the plastic connector shell for it when the switch is removed from the junk car.
A word of caution about multifunction switches is in order here. The multifunction switch (high/low beam, wiper, turn signals) are different for different years. 87-98 will work in any 87-89 car. The 90-93 switches only work in 90-93 cars. You can't put an early model switch in a late model car, nor can you put a late model switch in an early car.
Supposedly you can move the pins around to make the switches work in model years that are different from the car the switch came out of. I cannot verify that and haven’t tried it .
There are 3 Phillips head screws on the bottom of the plastic cover that cover the steering column. Remove them and the cover will come off. The multifunction switch is mounted with 2 Phillips head screws. The plastic connector shell will come of with some pulling and gentle prying. Examine the wiring closely and you may find several loose wires or cracks in the plastic connector shell. That means the shell needs to be replaced.
While you have the cover off, plan on replacing the ignition switch –($12-$15 at the auto parts store) . This is another known electrical problem.
There is a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. They overheat and sometimes catch fire.
Copy down you VIN number and call the Ford dealer nearest you. Tell them you want to see if the ignition switch recall for Fords & Mustangs was done on your car. They will ask for the VIN number & check it against the master database. If it isn't in the database, then you can schedule an appointment to have the switch replaced for free. The TSB is #95S28, and don't let them tell you that they don't do that anymore...
While the ignition switch is up for replacement, look closely at the wiring and plastic connector shells for it too. They tend to overheat and crack just like the other plastic shells do. There are several instances of wires pulling loose and causing strange problems.
BDASPNY
Member
jrichker said:
\
this guy is def the best at tech answers w/ diagrams and everything. listen to him and you can't go wrong!
I wonder if we can run an IP check to see if it matches RYAN. He disappeared for the day as soon as she appeared.
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