How hard is it to install a intake manifold?

Torque wrench is about 25-30 bucks for a cheapo. Any parts store or Sears will have one. The Haynes has a good write-up and there is another at www.unitedmajority.com (you may have to sign up but the section you are looking for is under forums/modifications/pictures and installation hints). It is an excellent how-to with pictures. The only difference is you won't be using the adapter plates or PI intake that are shown in that install but everything else is the same.

You don't have to pull the plugs...just the wires. Make sure you put them back the way they were removed.

You can reuse the gaskets if you want...I did. Does the intake have two coolent sensor bungs? I see one in your pic but the other is obscured by the packing paper. It should be a hole right by the thermostat (large hole in aluminum crossover at front of intake). If it doesn't you will have to tap a hole for it. The tap is listed in the tread on the United Majority site as well.

Feel free to hit me up with more questions.
 
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^^^ k, thanks =) Where going to try it tomorrow morning. :SNSign:

1 question: It says do not remove that thing. Is it the same for all the 96-98 Gt's? I saw another demostartion and the guy clearly removed that

DO NOT REMOVE THIS! I'm talking about the hose going from rail to rail. It's part of the fuel rail assembly and if you remove it you will have to buy another fuel rail assembly.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/72370370/72372349SfFoLb


NBow look @ this picture.. this guy has clearly removed it his correct? Did he have to buy another?
cleanhead.jpg
 
The rail will come off but you dont want to remove the tube attaching it across the back. You will see what he is talking about once you begain to take it off. Just leave both sides attached and take it apart as one piece..
 
Sorry I've been away for awhile. I wish I had more pics but I don't. The whole thing really wasn't that hard. Just take your time. When you put the sensors back into the coolant crossover be sure to wrap the threads with some teflon tape so you don't get any leaks. As mentioned above the fuel rail assembly comes out as a complete part (like a big square), you don't want to remove the crossover tube. Be sure to follow the torque specs and tightening sequence for the manifold. Haynes manual has it specified. Don't hesitate to ask more questions on here... :SNSign:
 
billfisher said:
on a scale of 1 to 10 it is a '1'.


we started today and it seems like more harder than a "1" lol. We didnt get to finish b/c theres so many damn screws and now where just lost. Anyways it got dark @ like 5 and left us to packing up time crapola crapola ! Where stuck @ the fuel line thing. Is the fuel line the thing that goes into the back of the premela sliver thing.. (the metal thing with the gold plated house on top). We have fuel line disconnectors but it doesnt look like it goes on the 97 gt. We saw fuel line wrench and that swhat we need. I guess they made the liens differnt on the 97 :shrug:

Also, i dont think he relived the gas fuel system =( Is it to late to hit that switch and start up the car lol =( What will happen if we dont let it run out gas in the engine?
 
The fuel lines are at the back of the engine bay on the passengers side. There are 2 and each is a different size. Disconnect the black plastic keepers (they just snap on) and slide the tube end of the fuel line disconnect inside of disc shaped connector of the fuel couplings. I'll take a pic in the morning and show you what I'm talking about.
 
coramprat said:
The fuel lines are at the back of the engine bay on the passengers side. There are 2 and each is a different size. Disconnect the black plastic keepers (they just snap on) and slide the tube end of the fuel line disconnect inside of disc shaped connector of the fuel couplings. I'll take a pic in the morning and show you what I'm talking about.


:SNSign: k thank you man! Also, what is the line that goes into the metal thing ontop of the engine with the horse on it? Theres a tube metal line in a netted cover on the bottom left of the metal thingie. We have to remove that. We brought some plastic things taht say fuel disconnector.
 
Twista said:
:SNSign: k thank you man! Also, what is the line that goes into the metal thing ontop of the engine with the horse on it? Theres a tube metal line in a netted cover on the bottom left of the metal thingie. We have to remove that.


This? I would disconnect it from the upper plenum (the box with the horse on it) but beyond that, it's easier to leave it hanging (as in the picture) and remove the alternator to pull the manifold out.

intake17.jpg
 
GDawg said:
The two fuel lines are those two hoses with the white dots on them (in the picture). You can see the clips on top of each one.
There you go...the two black clips over the silver disc shaped things (fuel line connectors) just pop off. Then slide the ends of the disconnect into the back side. It will pop right off with a little pressure. Just be sure to have a rag handy to avoid spilling gas because a little will come out of the lines.
 
GDawg said:
This? I would disconnect it from the upper plenum (the box with the horse on it) but beyond that, it's easier to leave it hanging (as in the picture) and remove the alternator to pull the manifold out.

intake17.jpg


ya that. Where is that black thing with the screws located? We didnt see that on here.

Also, you see the yellow thing in that picture connected to the metal rail thingie? How do we remove that from the manifold? They look rusted on there from the looks of mine. I saw a screw @ the front part of it but it was covered by a plastic cap thingie.

1 more thing: We couldnt figure out how to turn off the fuel line on this car. Theres a hole in the trunch but theres nothing to push in there and theres a orange button but its like super glued stuck. What will happen if we disconnect the fuel line w/o turning off the fuel line? Will there be abunch of gas? We will need a big towel is soak up whatever comes out?
theses yellowish things on the siliver rail in the pic below. Do they screw out than we pull the rail thing up?
largeFord4.6Lv2.jpg
 
Twista said:
ya that. Where is that black thing with the screws located? We didnt see that on here.

Also, you see the yellow thing in that picture connected to the metal rail thingie? How do we remove that from the manifold? They look rusted on there from the looks of mine. I saw a screw @ the front part of it but it was covered by a plastic cap thingie.

1 more thing: We couldnt figure out how to turn off the fuel line on this car. Theres a hole in the trunch but theres nothing to push in there and theres a orange button but its like super glued stuck. What will happen if we disconnect the fuel line w/o turning off the fuel line? Will there be abunch of gas? We will need a big towel is soak up whatever comes out?

Not sure what your talking about the black thing with screws...

The yellow things are your fuel injectors. Disconnect the wiring harnesses to each one. Maybe mark each one so you know where they go. I could tell just by the length and positioning. The long silver fuel rail is attached to the tops of the injectors. Just pull the rail up and off. But be sure to not lose the rubber rings from the top of the injectors plus don't lose the small square gaskets from the bottom of the injectors. The injectors just pull straight out of the manifold. The are expensive so treat them gently. I also put mine back in the exact location where I removed them from. Not sure if it mattered but I did anyway.

In the trunk, there is a wired connector to the fuel reset switch. Just remove the connector and run the car till it runs out of gas. This is one of the first things you need to do.
 
The yellow things are your fuel injectors. You will just swap those over to the new manifold and replace the fuel rail just like it came off the old one. They just pop off...sort of like a cork. Just disconnect the electrical connectors and set them out of the way.

Even if you don't release the fuel pressure there will not be alot of gas from the fuel line. Just use a towel to catch what does come out.
 
man ole man its going to be a bitch to get theses screws in there right place. Do we have to take off the big black rail thing thats over the engine? I guess b/c its in the damn way. We scripted (2) 10mm socket trying to get off all the bolts on the intake which havent been touched since when? 1996?? AIRTOOLS would make this job 50 % more faster lol. I wonder how much them suckers cost.


Ok, edit: Why in all the pictures i see of engines.. there car doesnt have that big black bar blocking access to the engine?

bl96gtc4.gif


Seems like most keep theres off? I mean they have it bolted to both sides of the car than it goes straight to the firewall and bolted up there which i think you need some other extension to bend and get there.


Do you have to remove the throttle cable? (the thing with the spring on it)
 
Twista said:
man ole man its going to be a bitch to get theses screws in there right place. Do we have to take off the big black rail thing thats over the engine? I guess b/c its in the damn way. We scripted (2) 10mm socket trying to get off all the bolts on the intake which havent been touched since when? 1996?? AIRTOOLS would make this job 50 % more faster lol. I wonder how much them suckers cost.


Ok, edit: Why in all the pictures i see of engines.. there car doesnt have that big black bar blocking access to the engine?

bl96gtc4.gif


Seems like most keep theres off? I mean they have it bolted to both sides of the car than it goes straight to the firewall and bolted up there which i think you need some other extension to bend and get there.


Do you have to remove the throttle cable? (the thing with the spring on it)


The "big black bar with screws" you are talking about is a Strut Tower Brace. "98's" didn't come with them. Some years do some don't but lots of people add them on as an after-thought. Use some WD-40 to work into the screws and then use a long pry bar (on your socket wrench) and slowly work it out. The screws will come out but use the WD-40 first and let it soak in. Then a pry bar will give you the leverage you need. But... you can pull the manifold out without removing that. Back where I mention pulling the altenator is what will allow you to slip the manifold forward to remove and not necessarily up...

As for the throttle cable. Yes, remove it from the throttle body making a mental note of how it wraps around the "cam" piece on the throttle body. I think there is only the spring and the cable that needs to be unhooked. Be sure to note how they are attached. Taking pictures before you remove anything helps tremendously. Be sure to not lose the spring.