03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
GDawg said:Those plugs should have already been pre-gapped to .054. I have the same. And that's TR55IX not TR55IK.
they where but just a habit of checking the gap, oops typo on the K instead of teh X
GDawg said:Those plugs should have already been pre-gapped to .054. I have the same. And that's TR55IX not TR55IK.
03ghoststang said:they where but just a habit of checking the gap, oops typo on the K instead of teh X
I just installed Autolite 764's myself. I believe they are the OEM supplier for Motorcraft, but don't quote me on that. I payed $1.39 per plug. www.bullittarchive.com has a good write up. Careful not to strip the coil-on-plug bolts (i didn't and had to use vice-grips to get it off).hotmustang331 said:Which ones is everyone using, and how do you like them, and what gap? What about those new 8MM plugs from I believe autolite? I think mine are going south and need to replace them, so bring it on . (Stock compression, N/A GTs experiances preferred)
GDawg said:K is so close to X on the keyboard... eyesight going bro...?
j/k...
hotmustang331 said:Well thats a little close WMS, but maybe its not LOL. So, let me ask this to everyone.
Hold your car at a steady 2000-2500RPMs and listed to your exhaust...does it kinda miss any? Like not just a smooth unwaivered sound.
See mine has a little miss every few seconds...but @ 3500, its perfectly level with no missing.
I do know that at 3500 even if a cylinder isnt firing you cant tell. My sisters taurus wasnt firing on 1 cylinder, and barely on another (bad valves almost no compression). At idle and low RPM you could defentaly hear it....but rev to 3500 and it purred like a kitten lol. So thats why I say 2000-2500 lol. Thanks all, just seeing if this miss is common.
Funny my car does that a bit lower in the RPM's and i hope a plug change fixes that toohotmustang331 said:Well thats a little close WMS, but maybe its not LOL. So, let me ask this to everyone.
Hold your car at a steady 2000-2500RPMs and listed to your exhaust...does it kinda miss any? Like not just a smooth unwaivered sound.
See mine has a little miss every few seconds...but @ 3500, its perfectly level with no missing.
I do know that at 3500 even if a cylinder isnt firing you cant tell. My sisters taurus wasnt firing on 1 cylinder, and barely on another (bad valves almost no compression). At idle and low RPM you could defentaly hear it....but rev to 3500 and it purred like a kitten lol. So thats why I say 2000-2500 lol. Thanks all, just seeing if this miss is common.
AmBo said:How likely is it to blow a plug? I always thought a plug change was cake. I just never understood the whole "gap" thing. Would anyone like to enlighten?
the gap on a spark plug is the distance, or gap, between the diode (stubby looking thing at the end) and conductor (curved piece of metal at the very end). the gap is important b/c it has to be on spec w/ how intense the spark is. the weaker the spark, the less the gap must be in order to be jumped.AmBo said:How likely is it to blow a plug? I always thought a plug change was cake. I just never understood the whole "gap" thing. Would anyone like to enlighten?
DerekStangGT said:the gap on a spark plug is the distance, or gap, between the diode (stubby looking thing at the end) and conductor (curved piece of metal at the very end). the gap is important b/c it has to be on spec w/ how intense the spark is. the weaker the spark, the less the gap must be in order to be jumped.
its like when you rub your feet on the carpet and go to touch a doorknb. somtimes you can actually see the spark jump from your finger tip to the knob before you even touch it. same thing. with a plug, you want as an intense a spark as possible w/ the plugs youre running so when the spark jumps the gap, it can ignite the compressed air and gas.
then you want a spark hot enough to ignite the entire mixture and not leave anything unburned, but too hot of a spark could cause detonation/pinging, which is where you have the a/f mixture igniting at more than one place in the combustion chamber. bad stuff
hope that helps a little
hotmustang331 said:Who me?
VPStang said:Yes and No. From what I've gathered the 04 heads don't suffer from this problem--though I've not got a definite answer from any of the ford techs on here like svtTech. But also for anyone else replacing plugs and not using the recommended plugs from ford. I am currently looking for a mustang and if the 04 is indeed not effected by this problem--then that's what I want to shoot for.
Black Stang 97 said:ngk or denso?? which are better??
companies who sell spark plugs will usually tell you they come pre-gapped, but dont trust them. its always best to check yourself. how you set the gap is actually pretty primitive. get a set of feeler guages. they are very thin strips of metal, each with a measurment on it. you then bang the spark plug on a gard surface and the diode will "come out" and get closer to the conductor, thus lessening the gap. use the feeler guage to measure the gap and continue to bang as needed. you may also need to expand the gap. be careful when doing this. i always use a think flathead screwdriver and gently twist the head to push the diode back in.AmBo said:
So I guess my last confusion, is why/how do you set the gap? Don't spark plugs come with a set gap?
DerekStangGT said:companies who sell spark plugs will usually tell you they come pre-gapped, but dont trust them. its always best to check yourself. how you set the gap is actually pretty primitive. get a set of feeler guages. they are very thin strips of metal, each with a measurment on it. you then bang the spark plug on a gard surface and the diode will "come out" and get closer to the conductor, thus lessening the gap. use the feeler guage to measure the gap and continue to bang as needed. you may also need to expand the gap. be careful when doing this. i always use a think flathead screwdriver and gently twist the head to push the diode back in.