Pilot Bearing Trouble.

[Johhny J]

So ive changed 3 clutches throughout the time ive had my mustang and every single time i have to grind the pilot bearing out with a dremel tool. Ive tried the puller and it snaps every single one of them. ive also tried a bunch of other tricks and it will not budge. Well after getting it out this time i realized i accidentally grinded into the crankshaft a little bit. Is this going to cause a problem?

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

That's probably no good but other people can chime in on that better than me. Have you ever tried the wet bread trick for the pilot bearing removal? Worked for me like a charm!

Can you take a picture of the damage so we can see how much material was removed?

 

[Johhny J]

Yeah ive tried that trick it didnt work. Heres some pictures of the damage

That's probably no good but other people can chime in on that better than me. Have you ever tried the wet bread trick for the pilot bearing removal? Worked for me like a charm!

Can you take a picture of the damage so we can see how much material was removed?

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

i wonder if maybe some JB weld could fill it in and then you could CAREFULLY smooth it out so the pilot bearing can securely fit back in. You might get some vibration on the higher rpm's if you don't.

 

[Johhny J]

i wonder if maybe some JB weld could fill it in and then you could CAREFULLY smooth it out so the pilot bearing can securely fit back in. You might get some vibration on the higher rpm's if you don't.

Alright, i swear i was grinding into the bearing. i even stopped several times to whack at it to see if it would budge so that i wouldnt grind into the crankshaft. sitting under a car with one light isnt the best way to do it i guess. Ill give it a try. Would you guys know why the bearing would be so hard to get out? Last time I also had some troubles getting the transmission to slide all the way through. i had it about 3/4 in and then it just stops. I had to push the fork in with my foot while i pushed the transmission and then it slid it.

 

[rbohm]

one trick, that i have yet to try, is to take a large tap and use it to remove the pilot bushing by cutting threads. the tap botoms on the crank and you essentially press the bushing out with the tap.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

one trick, that i have yet to try, is to take a large tap and use it to remove the pilot bushing by cutting threads. the tap botoms on the crank and you essentially press the bushing out with the tap.

How would you keep the bearing from spinning while threading the it with the tap?

The wet bread trick works like a charm. The key to it is getting something that fits inside the bearing nearly air tight. I used an axle rod from a hand truck and had to wrap the end with some tape to get the seal just right and after a couple hits the bearing popped right out. Easy.

 

[mikestang63]

ouch, that crank no look bueno. I've always used axvle grease or even soaked little pieces of notebook paper and shoved it in the opening, then used a large bolt and hammered the sucker outta there.

Be very careful with the JB weld as you do not want to decrease the diameter of the opening. Wondering if maybe some right stuff would work.

 

[rbohm]

How would you keep the bearing from spinning while threading the it with the tap?

The wet bread trick works like a charm. The key to it is getting something that fits inside the bearing nearly air tight. I used an axle rod from a hand truck and had to wrap the end with some tape to get the seal just right and after a couple hits the bearing popped right out. Easy.

note i was talking abut a bushing not a bearing.

 

[jrichker]

Thick grease and a transmission input shaft as a driver tool gets my vote. I have an old input shaft from a Tremec 3550 that I use to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, It fits tight enough so that there is very little leakage around it. It works with both 10 spline T5's and all the Tremec's that use a 10 spline input shaft.

[USERGROUP=77]@SN Certified Technician[/USERGROUP]
Input from some of the other guys may be useful long about now. Here's my call on the subject.

The problem with the crank is that if it is subject to a lot of shock loading, like dumping the clutch on launch or full throttle, never lift to shift driving, that the place you ground into the crank is the first place the crank will start to fail.

If you don't replace the crank, you better invest an a scatter shield bellhousing before you ever consider racing the car.

 

[Johhny J]

Thick grease and a transmission input shaft as a driver tool gets my vote. I have an old input shaft from a Tremec 3550 that I use to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, It fits tight enough so that there is very little leakage around it. It works with both 10 spline T5's and all the Tremec's that use a 10 spline input shaft.

The problem with the crank is that if it is subject to a lot of shock loading, like dumping the clutch on launch or full throttle, never lift to shift driving, that the place you ground into the crank is the first place the crank will start to fail.

If you don't replace the crank, you better invest an a scatter shield bellhousing before you ever consider racing the car.

how difficult is it to replace the crankshaft?

 

[jrichker]

Not hard at all once you have the engine out of the car and mounted on an engine stand...

 

[Johhny J]

Not hard at all once you have the engine out of the car and mounted on an engine stand...

How long do you think i have before it fails and what would happen when it fails?

 

[jrichker]

How long do you think i have before it fails and what would happen when it fails?

The [USERGROUP=77]@SN Certified Technician[/USERGROUP] jury is still out, but this is my call:

The grinds will focus the crankshaft stress along their length. I would expect a crack starting at the outermost grind point and radiating outward into the crankshaft flange Then the crack would propagate towards one or more of the flywheel mount bolts.

Without the scatter shield bellhousing, a few drag strip full throttle runs will result in the crank letting go of the flywheel/clutch assembly. That does not discount the possible loss of the right foot or maybe just some toes if you are lucky.

 

[Johhny J]

The [USERGROUP=77]@SN Certified Technician[/USERGROUP] jury is still out, but this is my call:

The grinds will focus the crankshaft stress along their length. I would expect a crack starting at the outermost grind point and radiating outward into the crankshaft flange Then the crack would propagate towards one or more of the flywheel mount bolts.

Without the scatter shield bellhousing, a few drag strip full throttle runs will result in the crank letting go of the flywheel/clutch assembly. That does not discount the possible loss of the right foot or maybe just some toes if you are lucky.

Im planning no putting a vortech supercharger on it. since i guess im forced to take the crankshaft out what kind of crankshaft do you guys suggest? its a stock 91 302

 

[Johhny J]

Im planning on putting a vortech supercharger on it so since i guess im forced to take the crankshaft out what kind of rebuild kit/crankshaft do you guys suggest? its a stock 91 302

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Ohhhh... dang, that stinks bro.
Unbalanced Crank = Stress
And unbalanced stress is havoc, you would save yourself a lot more headaches and possibly toes lol, if you just address that crank with another one soon.