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[loyalblue]

So...if I ran the AFR 205 with a 58cc combustion chamber wouldn't that make my compression ratio north of 12:1. Would that be too much compression to run on a supercharged motor? If I run the 72cc version I think the CR would be considerably lower. Would 93 octane be suitable for 12:1+ CR? I guess I could always mill the head down to get a 64cc combustion chamber. I think 11:1 would probably be ok for 8-10 (or so) lbs and also a beast N/A motor. I'm going to want this to scream N/A because once I finish the initial build it will be another 6-12 months before the blower is strapped on. That'll give me enough time to break the motor in and have everything sitting where it's supposed to be before the boost comes. I want to see what this thing'll do N/A...what kind of hp/torque numbers are produced from a N/A stroked 393.

 

[A5literMan]

Milling the heads will LOWER the cc of your heads not raise it. Grab a good dished piston and keep your compression below 10.5:1 if running boost. As far as compression ratio and 93 octane fuel w/ n/a... With aluminums ability to dispurse heat you can run 11:1 cr sometimes up to 12:1 with the right cam but it can be tricky. A n/a 393 11-12:1cr motor with AFR heads and a healthy cam should make north of 500 flywheel hp and 450-500 ft lbs tq. Enough power to run into the 10.xx's with the right setup.

 

[loyalblue]

Yeah, I wrote that wrong...I meant mill the 58cc head to get a 64cc (or so) combustion chamber. I was backwards. My bad. I see what you're saying now. I'll get the AFR 205 58cc and a DISHED piston to lower the compression ratio. I've had very linear thinking in regards to pistons...only thinking flat-top. But the dish will put me in the CR I'd like to be. Is it possible to run boost on 11:1 with the right tune? Does nitrous like low CR, too? Once I get my 351 block, and have a better idea of the parts I want...I'll call your cam guy and get something fabricated for the motor.

 

[A5literMan]

You can run nitrous on anything lol. I've ran a nitrous setup for years. Great for the track but not so much for the street. It is possible to run boost on 11:1cr and 93 octane but it's real tricky to tune. You will have to be cautious on timing and probably have to run meth injection. Seriously though if it's going to be mostly a street car and only occasionally see a track I recommend building the nastiest n/a big inch motor you can. It will be nearly impossible to keep the tires stuck to the ground as is. 500+ hp is a handful.

 

[loyalblue]

You can run nitrous on anything lol. I've ran a nitrous setup for years. Great for the track but not so much for the street. It is possible to run boost on 11:1cr and 93 octane but it's real tricky to tune. You will have to be cautious on timing and probably have to run meth injection. Seriously though if it's going to be mostly a street car and only occasionally see a track I recommend building the nastiest n/a big inch motor you can. It will be nearly impossible to keep the tires stuck to the ground as is. 500+ hp is a handful.

 

[loyalblue]

You can run nitrous on anything lol. I've ran a nitrous setup for years. Great for the track but not so much for the street. It is possible to run boost on 11:1cr and 93 octane but it's real tricky to tune. You will have to be cautious on timing and probably have to run meth injection. Seriously though if it's going to be mostly a street car and only occasionally see a track I recommend building the nastiest n/a big inch motor you can. It will be nearly impossible to keep the tires stuck to the ground as is. 500+ hp is a handful.

Then that's what I'll do, I've kinda liked nitrous better anyway (my 2nd Pony, a '91 GT was gassed) since you don't always have that constant wear on the motor as you do with forced induction. I'll build the 393 N/A 11:1, have the internals ready if I decide to gas it, and take supercharging off the table. Nitrous is cheaper anyway and the "wear" only happens when that micro-switch @ WOT is activated. I already know that a lot will be put into the suspension because as everyone knows if you can't get it to the ground...you don't really have it.
I hope I'm not bothering you with all these questions and grabbing advice from you. You really know what you're talking about and I have a lot to learn as I'm really starting to take engine building and auto work seriously. If I could do it all over again, I would've said eff college and gone to a machine school or apprenticed with an engine builder. I love turning wrenches on anything (mainly Mustangs) but I do have a '99 Sable that has a DOHC 24v motor in it. It's a very easy car to work, I've done some performance upgrades to it, and it's just a fun car to work on all around.
I've been out of the hot rod scene for a number of years and still think the pushrod Ford motors are something special. I just can't get behind the modular 4-cammer. It saddens me every time I see one of those new Mustangs with "5.0" on the fender. I want to pull over and tell them "Take that off, you have no clue what REAL 5-liter power is!"...but I don't . Although I'd like to learn how to work on them because a couple of my friends have those 'Coyote' motors and it'd be fun to learn how to work on a new platform.
So yeah, I think I'm pretty set on a stroked 393 N/A nitrous-ready motor...and that 351 block should safely handle dipping into the 650-ish power range. Do they make a "6.4" fender badges?

 

[loyalblue]

I'll actually just get one of these and cut it apart to make my own...people will be like "wait, what the...what is that?". I'll probably never get a race either, but it sure will look cool

 

[A5literMan]

Not bothering me at all! I enjoy talking motor builds. Lol. Good luck! Your purposed build would be fun.

 

[Cmoses]

Same boat I want to build a 351w shooting for 600hp all motor I just dont know a good ford combo for heads cam and lower end lol. I was into chevy builds but want to build my 95 stang