Symptoms of faulty water pump?

[sirr0bin]

At auto-x yesterday I noticed something bad. Theres a weird whining noise under the hood that increases with RPM, and my car's temp is going up very high and quickly while idling

I have the 3.8L taurus fan /w dccontrols controller, basically stock engine /w timing bumped

When I was idling at the line, the temp was going up very quickly, fast enough I could watch the needle move, up to about 3/4 of the normal range of the stock gauge. The fan took a little while to kick in, and didn't do much once it going moving. As soon as I started driving, it was fine, but then again as soon as I come into the pits and idle, the temp would shoot up very quickly again

My fan clutch went while I was on the gimli roadcourse a month or so back, and the entire car was badly vibrating from the fan clutch. Could this have taken my water pump with it?

Looking for suggestions, scared to drive the car with it heating up so quickly everytime I have to stop

 

[Quikstang]

I think typically you get the tale tale drip when the water pump goes. If its running hot while idling then its probably something to do with the fan, what thermostat is in the car, and what temp does the fan kick in?

 

[sirr0bin]

I think typically you get the tale tale drip when the water pump goes. If its running hot while idling then its probably something to do with the fan, what thermostat is in the car, and what temp does the fan kick in?

Oh sorry, stock thermostat (I think), and fan is set for 180 degree activation

It usually runs right around the 2nd line from the bottom on the stock temp guage (a little under half way)

 

[Quikstang]

I would go ahead and check and make sure the fan is coming on at all. If really is hard to tell what the car is doing with the factory gauge. My car runs off the thermostat(180 degrees) and you can watch the gauge cycle about 5 degree's on and off the thermo in dead still orlando traffic. In your case, it sounds like the fan may not be coming on at all, when my fan fuses went, I noticed the car would do exactly what you said. It would run warmer than usual 190-195 in stop in go traffic, and run for 220 at a dead stop. But as long as I was running around 55 -60 it would cool back down and run off the thermo. Ground the fan and then give it 12 v power just to make sure it comes on at all if your not sure.

 

[sirr0bin]

Yeah the fan is coming on, but it seems like it's coming on a little late. It's been working fine for last month or so, just started yesterday

It does like to blow fuses every now and then, but it's currently working, just late

edit: also, I should note that on a far hotter day when I had NO fan at all on the car, the temp did not rise and quickly or as high as it was yesterday. Yesterday was only 15 degrees celcius, cooling shouldn't be an issue, which is what made me think of the water pump

 

[JChalfan]

My fan clutch went while I was on the gimli roadcourse a month or so back, and the entire car was badly vibrating from the fan clutch. Could this have taken my water pump with it?

Yes, the vibration could have contributed to the water pump going out.

From what you have said, it sounds like you have either a water pump or thermostat problem. I am leaning towards water pump. Pull the serpentine belt off and spin the water pump pully by hand, both directions, and see if anything feels "weird". Clunking or notchy rotation.

Have you ever replaced the water pump? Unless someone has a better suggestion, I would replace the water pump and do the thermostat at the same time. It's always nice to know you have a good water pump.

Jeff

 

[sirr0bin]

It is the OEM pump so I'm figuring after 19 years of faithful service it's about time for a replacement anyways

Maby I'll just swap it for good measure, but before I do that I'm definately going to take the belt off and spin the pump by hand and see if I feel anything weird

 

[HISSIN50]

I agree with Jeff's advice. The water pump, being what drives a mech fan, takes a beating (namely the pump's bearings). Normally you will see the tell-tale seepage from the weep hole when the bearings are letting go though.

Upon occasion someone has sucked the spring in the lower hose into their waterpump. That aint nice.

What temps are you actually seeing? If you are using a stock gauge, I'd use a mech gauge if only for a day or two of diagnostics.

As an aside, you have your fan setting kinda strange if you run a 180* t-stat.

Good luck.

 

[sirr0bin]

Hissin: what would you recommend for fan setting? I tried putting in the jumper for 13 degrees cooler or whatever it does, and it kept blowing fuses. It's been working "alright" but I don't know if I trust this controller, it seems kinda flakey, but it's gotten really good reviews here so /shrug

I don't have any other guages to hookup and verify temps unfortunately, maby I'll bring it by my buddies shop and get them to use a pyrometer on the rad and see what it's running at

 

[HISSIN50]

Hissin: what would you recommend for fan setting? I tried putting in the jumper for 13 degrees cooler or whatever it does, and it kept blowing fuses. It's been working "alright" but I don't know if I trust this controller, it seems kinda flakey, but it's gotten really good reviews here so /shrug

I don't have any other guages to hookup and verify temps unfortunately, maby I'll bring it by my buddies shop and get them to use a pyrometer on the rad and see what it's running at

It sounds like you have a 160* t-stat?

I'm not sure wherein your fan issue lies. I've run my controller up and down the temp spectrum and havent had an issue. Are you installing the jumper on a hot engine? That could cause the fan to go to 100% very quickly after start-up (because you're now way over the controller's ideal temp). This would reveal a wiring issue. What fuse are you blowing - the controller uses a fusible link (fuses in and of themselves, could be your issue).

It's probably something kind of stupid that is the fix. Often poor wiring connections make a difference on a unit that's sensitive like the variable controller. And if using fuses, something like a Maxi fuse (real slow burning) or better yet, a fusible link, can help.



Good luck.