Black Sun 5.0
Founding Member
The Fluidyne and the DCC are good together, but even with this setup the DCC would run the fan on the highway before I put the deflector on.
temps rising at HIGHWAY speeds?
- Thread starter jaymac
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Either hose will work.
Personally, I'd use the lower hose. Not only will it keep your engine compartment cleaner, but you'll be forcing the least amount of gunk as possible through the radiator. The radiator has the smallest passages of the whole cooling system and is thus the most likely place to have a blockage.
Personally, I'd use the lower hose. Not only will it keep your engine compartment cleaner, but you'll be forcing the least amount of gunk as possible through the radiator. The radiator has the smallest passages of the whole cooling system and is thus the most likely place to have a blockage.
HISSIN50 said:
JT
I am curious. Did you buy a stock unit or fab one? If fab what material and thickness?
I have been planning to do this for a while now, but never really came up with a decent design.
Sorry for getting off topic guys.
put me on the mailing list!!
Now, back to the backflushing thing, I'd never taken the T-stat out to backflush the system. Quite honestly, I'd never backflushed anything but the heater core. Probably not the best strategy, huh??
I plan on backflushing the whole thing today, changing the water pump gasket (and the pump while I'm there), swapping in my new (old) radiator, and putting in new fluids. Hoepfully that solves all my issues
Now, back to the backflushing thing, I'd never taken the T-stat out to backflush the system. Quite honestly, I'd never backflushed anything but the heater core. Probably not the best strategy, huh??
I plan on backflushing the whole thing today, changing the water pump gasket (and the pump while I'm there), swapping in my new (old) radiator, and putting in new fluids. Hoepfully that solves all my issues
this is crap. tonight the car is going to 210* just sitting at the bank drive-thru and then stoplights, then only goes down to 195* driving around town.
I'm going to Autozone right now and buying a water pump, gasket, T stat gasket, system flush, and new coolant.
I definitely need to backflush the system.
Should I/do I need to drill a hole in the T-stat? Anyone w/ suggestions/instructions on that??
I'm going to Autozone right now and buying a water pump, gasket, T stat gasket, system flush, and new coolant.
I definitely need to backflush the system.
Should I/do I need to drill a hole in the T-stat? Anyone w/ suggestions/instructions on that??
CManT1914
New Member
jaymac said:
That sounds about normal.
I don't think you have to drill a hole in the t-stat to backflush the coolant system.
no I'm going to remove the t-stat to backflush it or else the water won't flow through the system freely, as I understand it.
Some people say to drill a hole in the T-stat for regular use for some reason that I forget.
Some people say to drill a hole in the T-stat for regular use for some reason that I forget.
HISSIN50 said:
Just the saying the phrase "giggle hole" makes me laugh.
So the last stat I installed had a small ball bearing type valve. I assumed this just kept coolant from becoming stagnant before getting up to temp, and was valved to prevent backflow of coolant. I guess if the ball valve is installed on the high side of the manifold (as opposed to being on the lower valley of the manifold), it would also help to bleed air from the intake.
Pure Genious!
Sometimes the simplest things still elude me.
Now I may have to pull the stat out and see how I installed it
:Word:
Here we go again. I had a phoenetic or finger glitch earlier. It is Jiggle, not giggle. And in the case of drilling it yourself, I called it a 'jiggle hole' since you are drilling it yourself (and not inserting a ball inside a cage on the rim). But when they come on new stats, they are jiggle balls or jiggle valves (since they have a ball in there that rattles around). I had that part right atleast, but wanted to insert the name of the actual part in case anyone ever quoted me.
Ahh, I just woke up from a nap and see what I messed up earlier. I am afraid to read more threads I replied on already.
Ahh, I just woke up from a nap and see what I messed up earlier. I am afraid to read more threads I replied on already.
HISSIN50 said:Here we go again. I had a phoenetic or finger glitch earlier. It is Jiggle, not giggle. And in the case of drilling it yourself, I called it a 'jiggle hole' since you are drilling it yourself (and not inserting a ball inside a cage on the rim). But when they come on new stats, they are jiggle balls or jiggle valves (since they have a ball in there that rattles around). I had that part right atleast, but wanted to insert the name of the actual part in case anyone ever quoted me.
Ahh, I just woke up from a nap and see what I messed up earlier. I am afraid to read more threads I replied on already.
So they are actually "jiggle balls". Yeah that is a lot better!
What a sad turn this thread took.
Jaymac-
Let us know how the flush and pump works out.
That's ok - it's payback to Jeremy. 
(And thanks for removing that from your sig, bud).
Yep, a jiggle ball or jiggle valve is how I learned it. There is another name for them but I cant remember what it is (this is not a term we use every day - or year).
(And thanks for removing that from your sig, bud). Yep, a jiggle ball or jiggle valve is how I learned it. There is another name for them but I cant remember what it is (this is not a term we use every day - or year).
OK, the pump and flush turned out to be a HORRIBLE experience. Horrible. In a nutshell, on the way to the shop, the temp shot up to about 230-245 ish, and I got to the shop, and coolant had spewed all over the underside of the hood, and I still can't tell from where?!?!? WTF.
I thought I blew another HG, but I still don't see any water in the oil yet... I'm still not quite sure. I swapped rad.'s, backflushed the system, then there was a seized bolt in the water pump. All the way on the drivers side, the bolt right above the bottom stud snapped off in the block. Does anyone know if that goes into the block or just the timing cover?
It took alot of welding and a propane torch and time to finaly worm that thing out. Then, trying to clean thethreads, I went as deep as the tap would go. Then, trying to put the new bolt in, it wouldn't go in all the way, so then THAT ONE sanped off in the block, but it snapped in the middle of the threads, so nothing to weld/grab on to. So now I'll have to try to extract/heli-coil it. Any suggestions?
Even after all that, it still will only sta around 190ish for the temp. You would think it would be lower after all that, no? The night I drove it home, the next day there was coolant puddles all under the car, but I didn't even touch the car on Sunday, then this morning, I only had to put a few oz.'s of coolant in to top off the rad., and the overflow was all the way at the top. What's that all about?. It hasn't overheated, and I still don't have any water in the oil. The pump does not appear to be leaking by the broken bolt...
I'm going to make another thread about the overflow bottle not returning coolant to the system, but feel free to offer ideas/help w/ the broken bolt, and the possibilities of why coolant would explode everywhere and from where. Could it be a faulty T-stat? Could it be my faulty "jiggle balls"???
Thanks again guys,
J
I thought I blew another HG, but I still don't see any water in the oil yet... I'm still not quite sure. I swapped rad.'s, backflushed the system, then there was a seized bolt in the water pump. All the way on the drivers side, the bolt right above the bottom stud snapped off in the block. Does anyone know if that goes into the block or just the timing cover?
It took alot of welding and a propane torch and time to finaly worm that thing out. Then, trying to clean thethreads, I went as deep as the tap would go. Then, trying to put the new bolt in, it wouldn't go in all the way, so then THAT ONE sanped off in the block, but it snapped in the middle of the threads, so nothing to weld/grab on to. So now I'll have to try to extract/heli-coil it. Any suggestions?
Even after all that, it still will only sta around 190ish for the temp. You would think it would be lower after all that, no? The night I drove it home, the next day there was coolant puddles all under the car, but I didn't even touch the car on Sunday, then this morning, I only had to put a few oz.'s of coolant in to top off the rad., and the overflow was all the way at the top. What's that all about?. It hasn't overheated, and I still don't have any water in the oil. The pump does not appear to be leaking by the broken bolt...
I'm going to make another thread about the overflow bottle not returning coolant to the system, but feel free to offer ideas/help w/ the broken bolt, and the possibilities of why coolant would explode everywhere and from where. Could it be a faulty T-stat? Could it be my faulty "jiggle balls"???
Thanks again guys,
J
ahh crap.
I just read some old posts about blown head gaskets, and nopw I hear that even if there's no water in the oil, it can still be a HG.
great.
The other night, there was smoke from the tailpipes, but I couldn't tell if it was steam or smoke, as it's getting colder out.
I guess I'll have to go smell it.
This really sucks.
I'll let you guys know...
I just read some old posts about blown head gaskets, and nopw I hear that even if there's no water in the oil, it can still be a HG.
great.
The other night, there was smoke from the tailpipes, but I couldn't tell if it was steam or smoke, as it's getting colder out.
I guess I'll have to go smell it.
This really sucks.
I'll let you guys know...
just a thought: if anotifreeze was indeed getting into the combustion chamber, and going out the pipes, but not the oil, wouldn't the coolant level be dropping/overheating?
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Have you checked the fan clutch..may be done and not giving you the RPM's to do it's job. At this point I'd be looking a draining the oil, taking a look, replacing the fan clutch and trying again. Replacing my fan clutch took me from mid 190's to mid 180's with a 180 stat...no matter the outiside temp.
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