Brakes The Ultimate 4-lug/5-lug Brake Conversion/upgrade Thread

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Mustang5L5, Nov 28, 2009.


  1. 5.0W/5.0

    5.0W/5.0 New Member

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    With the stock stuff the tires seem to have good, even wear. Hopefully, it will stay that way!
  2. bcmbcmbcm

    bcmbcmbcm Member

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    Hey folks,
    can someone chime in about an emergency brake cable that will work with rear disks? The Raybestos ones I got (will post the part # soon) won't work :(
  3. AMorgan92Coupe

    AMorgan92Coupe New Member

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    I will be doing a conversion on a 92 coupe and a buddy of mine has a set of factory 03 cobra wheels... is there a setup that these wheels will work with on this car? Wheels are not my main concern at this point but he is going to give them to me very cheap and I don't want to miss out on buying them If they're going to work. Thanks for any help!
  4. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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    you need to make sure they are NOT attached to the chassis when you attach them to the calipers, once they are then you may re-attach them to the car and they should work great, pull will be a little far before it engages but it will work for cheap bastards, like myself :D
  5. mrhtwls

    mrhtwls New Member

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    Didn't Ford Motorsports offer a Cobra "R" 5 lug converstion kit for Foxes? Anyone have the old part number? May be worth while to search NOS parts horders for this kit.

    I found it for sale on the Factory 5 site:

    [​IMG]

    Ford Racing Part Number M-2300-K.

    More Information:

    This kit permits owners of 1987-93 Mustang GTs and LXs with V-8 to upgrade their vehicle braking system to 1993 Cobra “R”/1994 Cobra specs. The kit features massive 13.0" front and 11.65" rear rotors, plus spindles, axle shafts, hubs, calipers, mounting brackets, Cobra brake booster and master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve, hoses, tubes, attaching hardware, instructions and more.

    Installation is a virtual bolt-on, requiring only one flared connection. Requires use of 17" x 8" wheels or larger (not included in kit) with 5-hole, 4.5" diameter mounting pattern.
  6. fivespeedsteed

    fivespeedsteed Active Member

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    cheapest way i found to do it was use

    1994-95 gt/v6 calipers in front, hoses, pads, rotors, spindles, hubs, and the weatherhead that can be found on latemodel or the weatherhead number that mustang5l5 probably mentioned above. then if you have stock fox balljoints use a .33 spacer on the top, or use sn95 balljoints.

    then for the rear use ranger axles and drums.
  7. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Five lug Turbo Coupe conversion:

    Got A TC rear axle and want 5 lug axles to increase your choice of wheels? Here's the answer...:

    Use the 94-98 axles Mustang axles. Use 1990 Mazda MPV 3.0 V6 front rotors (10", 5 lug x 4.5" pattern, 2 7/16" offset ). While you are at the auto parts store, set a TC rear rotor side by side with the Mazda rotor and they are the same except for the offset.

    The next step fixes the offset problem:
    Use a Maximum MotorSports 1/8 spacer (MMWS6, Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader! ) between the inside of the rotor and the axle flange. The spacers may need to have the OD machined to fit properly. The stock rotor offset is 2 5/16" and the Mazda rotors are 2 7/16" offset. The 1/8" spacer puts the rotor back dead center alignment with the calipers.

    The Mazda rotors are under $30 each, and I have seen them for $20 each. The MM spacers are two for $30 + $9 shipping. So the entire package costs $99. That saves $41, which most of us could find a very good use for.
  8. Chrome_Rust

    Chrome_Rust Member

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    you can also swap SVO parts onto a TC 8.8 housing. use everything, brackets, calipers, rotors, backing plates axles. sets the rear a little wider, but I think it looks better. my 275's rub the fender a little on my cobras. narrower tires or a different offset of wheel would countermand that.
  9. Adams91LX

    Adams91LX Active Member

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    I used 94-98 axles, then Breeze Rotors (TC rotors drilled for 5 lug), and sent them to a machine shop to have the inside enlarged slightly. After that you are pretty much done, and you didn't have to use a spacer between the rotor and axle. Rotors usually last a good long time and it only cost me about 25 bucks to have the rotors machined.
  10. laford1986

    laford1986 New Member

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    GENERAL/SIMPLE QUESTION ABOUT '86 GT BRAKES.

    I just want 5 lug--i have the rear built. Need to go to 11" 5-lug front rotors. NOT interested in big brakes. I hear about Ranger front rotors--but everyone says they are not able to get the correct bearings. I just need a simple salvage yard FRONT 5'LUG CONVERSION......thanks
  11. 89drop

    89drop New Member

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    im going with, and already have 03 cobra wheels as well, i was wondering if this worked out for you or not, and what you used? thanks!
  12. fiveoh

    fiveoh New Member

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    Emergency brake

    I've seen the question asked, but not answered. That doesn't mean it wasn't answered, but I couldn't find it answered anywhere. It pertains to whether the 99+ leather e-brake handle could be used to replace the plastic 87-93 when you do the e-brake mods. The 99+ are easier to find and about half as much when you're dealing with companies like MPS. Cosmetically, the brake handles appear similar. The biggest difference is the mounting bracket. The 99+ bracket is about an inch longer than stock 87-98. I've attached a couple pics to note side by side differences. What should be of interest, though, is the 99+ leather pieces are a direct swap to your stock handle, so it is still a worthwhile purchase if you're looking for the leather look.

    Attached Files:

  13. DucatiRdr

    DucatiRdr New Member

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    Adding a missing piece of the puzzle:

    When installing the revised brake cables for the rear disc conversion, the instructions for the M-2300-K kit call for 2 "CLIP, BRAKE CABLE TO CALIPER", Ford part number 97413-S2. I don't know about your local Ford dealer, but mine stinks. Instead of getting frustrated with them again, I took my cables to the hardware store and found that a 7/16" e-clip fit perfectly. I paid $0.41ea in rust prone black oxidize.
  14. 91fr500

    91fr500 New Member

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    Guys, this is a great thread! I have a question though? I am considering running a 99-04 gt rotor, caliper, and spindles on my 1991 gt what benefits does this bring such as stopping power? I am going to run 18x9(fr500 24mm offset) in the front which setup do you think I should run to allow as much clearence as possible. I realize I may run into rubbing issues, but what do yall recommend?
  15. Lifted94XLT

    Lifted94XLT Member

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    So what Do i need to use to be able to use ANY wheels on my fox? (ie. FR500s, 03 Cobras, SVE Anny wheels, etc)

    Thanks.
    --Ryan
  16. NIKwoaC

    NIKwoaC 中國製造

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    Here is some info on front end (spindles) geometry differences over the years. Moderator Mike (Mustang5L5) actually came up with this info, so blame him, not me. :D

    Having said that, there ARE people who get the '96+ spindles to work with the stock K member. I can't really add anything about that from personal experience, because I've never driven a Fox car with stock K member and '96+ spindles.

    Also...

    Visuals:

    [​IMG]

    There is actually a lot more info in these links below. Besides, I'm sure MM will want you to check out their site, especially after I "borrowed" some of their info. :D

    Mustang Spindle Install and Upgrade Warning : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

    1979-93 Mustang: Swapping to the 1994-04 Spindles : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!
  17. oldfox

    oldfox Member

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    Hi guys---emergency brake --cheap and easy -- done right
    I was on a budget and I wanted 5 lug disc brakes all the way around so I called a bunch
    guys that run ads "junk cars towed free-Or best prices for junk cars" And told them I was
    looking for a 94--95 mustang and left my number-sure nuff I got a few calls back. When
    those guys are ready to send a car to the crusher the parts are cheap. A scrap guy let me
    strip everything I needed off of a 95 V-6 for $100. And I took all the emergency brake parts every
    nut bolt,clips and cables. I saw post about modifying The emergency brake handle to work
    with disc brakes. Not me... I used everything from the 95 even the inside handle. The lower
    meck azizem looks different but it bolted right in and and when the console cover is put back
    it looks the same. But be sure and get the cable holder part that holds the front of the cables
    in place. It's spot welded on but it's easy to pop off with a chisel. You can weld it on or used self taping screws or even pop rivets.
    I hope this helps someone out that's on budget.
    I used self taping screws on the bracket then stopped at a muffler shop and had it
    spot welded for $15. Some off those muffler guys can really weld good on the thin stuff

    Cool budget tip: If you are running SN-95 brakes jump on eBay and you can pick up a full set (four)
    drilled and slotted zinc plated rotors for about $109 with free shipping that's cheaper than stock and they look super cool
  18. oldfox

    oldfox Member

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  19. eightyfivefox

    eightyfivefox New Member

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    Anyone know the correct wheel off set for the rear on a 95 disk rear conversion on a fox?? I have 26mm offset I believe or 28 and 275s and they rub!!
  20. SVTFreak

    SVTFreak New Member

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    Hope this helps people. I did a rear SN conversion using the factory brackets. First, I cut the factory SN bracket and bevelled the inside of the hole so it would fit flushed up to axle flange. I then installed the bracket halves on the flange on the inside. Then i welded them up where cut, back and front sides. The antimoan bracket was too long. I cut about 3/4" out of the flat area of it and welded it back together. This put the Ubolt running inside the factory quad shock mount. Worked out perfect!. When all was said and done, i had to add one washer to the caliper mount bracket (that the caliper rides in) where it bolts to the welded bracket to move the caliper out just a touch. It prolly wasnt even necessary but i wanted the caliper centered. See pictures below and hope this helps someone who wants to save a couple bucks and has the time to play.

    Bracket cut ready to fit
    [​IMG]
    Bracket installed
    [​IMG]
    Next was taken after one side was welded. I was going to leave like that, but decided it was cheap insurance to weld the back after a couple hours of thought.
    [​IMG]
    Anti moan cut and welded (i know, my welding isnt the best but it holds.)
    [​IMG]
    All assembled, you can see the washers for calipers spacing.
    [​IMG]

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