Brakes The Ultimate 4-lug/5-lug Brake Conversion/upgrade Thread

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I will be doing a conversion on a 92 coupe and a buddy of mine has a set of factory 03 cobra wheels... is there a setup that these wheels will work with on this car? Wheels are not my main concern at this point but he is going to give them to me very cheap and I don't want to miss out on buying them If they're going to work. Thanks for any help!
 
E brake cables, there is a possibility that you can re use your factory e brake cables by relocating the brackets so they dont make contact with the wheels, what i did was buy some steel zip ties and attach the brake cable to the calipers and zip tie the loose part of the cable to the lower control arms, then relocate the bracket by drilling 2 holes one for the screw and one for the retaining fold (you'll see what i mean when you get down there) if you go this route you do not need to modify your e brake cable, now this isnt guaranteed to work(worked on my 88 but not my 87)

Hey folks,
can someone chime in about an emergency brake cable that will work with rear disks? The Raybestos ones I got (will post the part # soon) won't work :(

you need to make sure they are NOT attached to the chassis when you attach them to the calipers, once they are then you may re-attach them to the car and they should work great, pull will be a little far before it engages but it will work for cheap bastards, like myself :D
 
Didn't Ford Motorsports offer a Cobra "R" 5 lug converstion kit for Foxes? Anyone have the old part number? May be worth while to search NOS parts horders for this kit.

I found it for sale on the Factory 5 site:

discbrake.jpg


Ford Racing Part Number M-2300-K.

More Information:

This kit permits owners of 1987-93 Mustang GTs and LXs with V-8 to upgrade their vehicle braking system to 1993 Cobra “R”/1994 Cobra specs. The kit features massive 13.0" front and 11.65" rear rotors, plus spindles, axle shafts, hubs, calipers, mounting brackets, Cobra brake booster and master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve, hoses, tubes, attaching hardware, instructions and more.

Installation is a virtual bolt-on, requiring only one flared connection. Requires use of 17" x 8" wheels or larger (not included in kit) with 5-hole, 4.5" diameter mounting pattern.
 
cheapest way i found to do it was use

1994-95 gt/v6 calipers in front, hoses, pads, rotors, spindles, hubs, and the weatherhead that can be found on latemodel or the weatherhead number that mustang5l5 probably mentioned above. then if you have stock fox balljoints use a .33 spacer on the top, or use sn95 balljoints.

then for the rear use ranger axles and drums.
 
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Five lug Turbo Coupe conversion:

Got A TC rear axle and want 5 lug axles to increase your choice of wheels? Here's the answer...:

Use the 94-98 axles Mustang axles. Use 1990 Mazda MPV 3.0 V6 front rotors (10", 5 lug x 4.5" pattern, 2 7/16" offset ). While you are at the auto parts store, set a TC rear rotor side by side with the Mazda rotor and they are the same except for the offset.

The next step fixes the offset problem:
Use a Maximum MotorSports 1/8 spacer (MMWS6, Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader! ) between the inside of the rotor and the axle flange. The spacers may need to have the OD machined to fit properly. The stock rotor offset is 2 5/16" and the Mazda rotors are 2 7/16" offset. The 1/8" spacer puts the rotor back dead center alignment with the calipers.

The Mazda rotors are under $30 each, and I have seen them for $20 each. The MM spacers are two for $30 + $9 shipping. So the entire package costs $99. That saves $41, which most of us could find a very good use for.
 
you can also swap SVO parts onto a TC 8.8 housing. use everything, brackets, calipers, rotors, backing plates axles. sets the rear a little wider, but I think it looks better. my 275's rub the fender a little on my cobras. narrower tires or a different offset of wheel would countermand that.
 
Got A TC rear axle and want 5 lug axles to increase your choice of wheels? Here's the answer...:

Use the 94-98 axles Mustang axles. Use 1990 Mazda MPV 3.0 V6 front rotors (10", 5 lug x 4.5" pattern, 2 7/16" offset ). While you are at the auto parts store, set a TC rear rotor side by side with the Mazda rotor and they are the same except for the offset.

The next step fixes the offset problem:
Use a Maximum MotorSports 1/8 spacer (MMWS6, Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader! ) between the inside of the rotor and the axle flange. The spacers may need to have the OD machined to fit properly. The stock rotor offset is 2 5/16" and the Mazda rotors are 2 7/16" offset. The 1/8" spacer puts the rotor back dead center alignment with the calipers.

The Mazda rotors are under $30 each, and I have seen them for $20 each. The MM spacers are two for $30 + $9 shipping. So the entire package costs $99. That saves $41, which most of us could find a very good use for.


I used 94-98 axles, then Breeze Rotors (TC rotors drilled for 5 lug), and sent them to a machine shop to have the inside enlarged slightly. After that you are pretty much done, and you didn't have to use a spacer between the rotor and axle. Rotors usually last a good long time and it only cost me about 25 bucks to have the rotors machined.
 
GENERAL/SIMPLE QUESTION ABOUT '86 GT BRAKES.

I just want 5 lug--i have the rear built. Need to go to 11" 5-lug front rotors. NOT interested in big brakes. I hear about Ranger front rotors--but everyone says they are not able to get the correct bearings. I just need a simple salvage yard FRONT 5'LUG CONVERSION......thanks
 
Emergency brake

I've seen the question asked, but not answered. That doesn't mean it wasn't answered, but I couldn't find it answered anywhere. It pertains to whether the 99+ leather e-brake handle could be used to replace the plastic 87-93 when you do the e-brake mods. The 99+ are easier to find and about half as much when you're dealing with companies like MPS. Cosmetically, the brake handles appear similar. The biggest difference is the mounting bracket. The 99+ bracket is about an inch longer than stock 87-98. I've attached a couple pics to note side by side differences. What should be of interest, though, is the 99+ leather pieces are a direct swap to your stock handle, so it is still a worthwhile purchase if you're looking for the leather look.
 

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Adding a missing piece of the puzzle:

When installing the revised brake cables for the rear disc conversion, the instructions for the M-2300-K kit call for 2 "CLIP, BRAKE CABLE TO CALIPER", Ford part number 97413-S2. I don't know about your local Ford dealer, but mine stinks. Instead of getting frustrated with them again, I took my cables to the hardware store and found that a 7/16" e-clip fit perfectly. I paid $0.41ea in rust prone black oxidize.
 
Guys, this is a great thread! I have a question though? I am considering running a 99-04 gt rotor, caliper, and spindles on my 1991 gt what benefits does this bring such as stopping power? I am going to run 18x9(fr500 24mm offset) in the front which setup do you think I should run to allow as much clearence as possible. I realize I may run into rubbing issues, but what do yall recommend?
 
5lugs...the cheap easy way.

Late model resto sells a kit for $400 to convert the basic 4-lug Fox into 5-lugs. Basically the kit uses OEM Ford components...in one easy kit with lube and misc items.


Basically, the requirements are as follows

Front (w/11" rotors): For the 87-93 V8 Mustang... 84-86 SVO or 84-92 Mark 7 front 11" rotors (either with or without ABS...doesn't matter)

Front (w/10" rotors): For the 79-86 and 87-93 4cyl cars, use the 83-92 4cyl Ranger front rotors

Optionally you can elect to replace the bearings at this time, or reuse the ones in your 4-lug rotors. Most often, they will directly swap over.

Rear: (All 4-lug drum rears) '83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end, or '86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side axles (29-5/32") is what you want. The 9" drums are off the 7.5" equipped ranger or aerostar.


Simple swap the axles and drums, and you are good to go.

Pros: Keeps stock fox offset up front and in the rear. Doesn't change a thing other than add a 5th lug. Cheap, Easy

Cons: Limited wheel selection. Front hub is the issue

List of the OEM Sn95 wheels that fit the front rotors without modification

94-96 16" Pony Wheels
94-95 17" GT wheels
94-97 Cobra 17" Wheels
1995 Cobra R wheels (OEM)
V6 Mustang wheels

Other SN95 wheels will bolt up, but you won't be able to run the center caps.


So what Do i need to use to be able to use ANY wheels on my fox? (ie. FR500s, 03 Cobras, SVE Anny wheels, etc)

Thanks.
--Ryan
 
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Here is some info on front end (spindles) geometry differences over the years. Moderator Mike (Mustang5L5) actually came up with this info, so blame him, not me. :D

Maximum Motorsports said:
Do not install a 1996-04 spindle on a 1979-93 or 1994-95 Mustang fitted with a stock-geometry k-member!

Doing so will significantly increase bumpsteer because...

* The steering arm on the 1996-04 spindle is about 1.02" (26mm) lower (relative to the rest of the spindle) than the steering arm of any 1979-95 spindle.
* The lower steering arm forces the outer tie-rod end to a lower position.
* That new position is far too low for the steering rack location of any 1979-95 Mustang, and radically changes the steering geometry.
* It is impossible to correct the geometry with a bumpsteer kit because the outer tie-rod end needs to be raised so much that it would have to occupy the same physical space as the steering arm.

Having said that, there ARE people who get the '96+ spindles to work with the stock K member. I can't really add anything about that from personal experience, because I've never driven a Fox car with stock K member and '96+ spindles.

Also...

Maximum Motorsports said:
1994-95 spindles will increase the front track width by 0.120" (3.1mm) per side.

1996-04 spindles will increase the front track width by 0.320" (8.1mm) per side.

Visuals:

94-95vs96-98spindle.jpg


There is actually a lot more info in these links below. Besides, I'm sure MM will want you to check out their site, especially after I "borrowed" some of their info. :D

Mustang Spindle Install and Upgrade Warning : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

1979-93 Mustang: Swapping to the 1994-04 Spindles : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!
 
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Hi guys---emergency brake --cheap and easy -- done right
I was on a budget and I wanted 5 lug disc brakes all the way around so I called a bunch
guys that run ads "junk cars towed free-Or best prices for junk cars" And told them I was
looking for a 94--95 mustang and left my number-sure nuff I got a few calls back. When
those guys are ready to send a car to the crusher the parts are cheap. A scrap guy let me
strip everything I needed off of a 95 V-6 for $100. And I took all the emergency brake parts every
nut bolt,clips and cables. I saw post about modifying The emergency brake handle to work
with disc brakes. Not me... I used everything from the 95 even the inside handle. The lower
meck azizem looks different but it bolted right in and and when the console cover is put back
it looks the same. But be sure and get the cable holder part that holds the front of the cables
in place. It's spot welded on but it's easy to pop off with a chisel. You can weld it on or used self taping screws or even pop rivets.
I hope this helps someone out that's on budget.
I used self taping screws on the bracket then stopped at a muffler shop and had it
spot welded for $15. Some off those muffler guys can really weld good on the thin stuff

Cool budget tip: If you are running SN-95 brakes jump on eBay and you can pick up a full set (four)
drilled and slotted zinc plated rotors for about $109 with free shipping that's cheaper than stock and they look super cool
 
Hope this helps people. I did a rear SN conversion using the factory brackets. First, I cut the factory SN bracket and bevelled the inside of the hole so it would fit flushed up to axle flange. I then installed the bracket halves on the flange on the inside. Then i welded them up where cut, back and front sides. The antimoan bracket was too long. I cut about 3/4" out of the flat area of it and welded it back together. This put the Ubolt running inside the factory quad shock mount. Worked out perfect!. When all was said and done, i had to add one washer to the caliper mount bracket (that the caliper rides in) where it bolts to the welded bracket to move the caliper out just a touch. It prolly wasnt even necessary but i wanted the caliper centered. See pictures below and hope this helps someone who wants to save a couple bucks and has the time to play.

Bracket cut ready to fit
View attachment 190477
Bracket installed
View attachment 190478
Next was taken after one side was welded. I was going to leave like that, but decided it was cheap insurance to weld the back after a couple hours of thought.
View attachment 190479
Anti moan cut and welded (i know, my welding isnt the best but it holds.)
View attachment 190480
All assembled, you can see the washers for calipers spacing.
View attachment 190481