Yes, you should pick up torque. I can not imagine a worse set up for torque than what you have. Also, the old school tuning will be fine for minor tuning changes.Ya was also curious if i would possibly pick up some low end torque this an intake swap. Because my 331 feels more like a 302 for low end torque.
You can "tune" your own car in a n/a setup with an adj fuel press regulator and timing.
While I know what you mean, without getting into a detailed dialogue, I'm referring to the fact he could adj a few things. He already had a tune and I'm assuming has the fuel map/ecu timing in there. An intake change shouldn't change those parameters to the point of a poorly operating engine. With a wideband he could check it and if need be adj a few # of fuel if needed. I know there is more to a "dyno tune"No... you really cant.
Just my novice guess is no. I don't believe there'd be a noticeable difference w a 5mm larger hole and since its been tuned via chip I don't think the maf's manufacture's pre-set "calibration" should matter.I was wrong about the 75mm tb, its actualy a 70. And yes my tuner tuned it through the chip and set a base timing and a base fuel pressure and changed everything on the chip. Why do you guys think i need to upgrade MAF and get better intake like the anderson before the actual intake manifold? I am looking for the most power for the money. I dont think switching the MAF is going to get me 20+ rwhp like an ported holley might possibly get me?
I know a guy w a stock maf bolted to a stock long block. 'Twas tuned and he made 332 rwph (not too far off from the Op's 331 cubes). There was no turning up the nose from the tuner due to the oriley reman unit..- sample tube included.The mass air meter controls the mixture. It's one of the most important sensors on your engine.
Using a C&L is like buying generic glasses off the shelf from Walmart. Yeah they work, but they aren't necessarily meant for you and you aren't going to see your best.
The sampling tube method of metering air flow just isn't accurate, it's a one size fits all, as compared to a pro m that is properly calibrated on a flo bench.
Guys pick up good power going from a 75 pro m (which is much better than a c&l) to an 80 because the 80mm reads the air 360 degrees.
Your metering really needs to be accurate, it's not like you are making 235rwhp.
Consider this, I know guys with stock shortblock 302's in the 350rwhp range (some higher, I can't remember if the highest was 359 or 363rwhp) that have afr 165's. That's with no dyno tuning.
Many tuners won't even bother tuning a car with a c&l. They tell you to replace it before they get to work.
If it was you and you had to choose either a new tb and maf or a new intake which would you do?The smaller MAF,intake pipe,and tb are a slight restriction and swapping these out should pick up at least 10rwhp(maybe more). Add a long runner intake(Holley or rpm) you should see minimum of 25. I'm not just talking peak numbers either. I wouldn't be surprised with those mods and a new tune you could see real close to 375-400rwhp. Chasing hp in a n/a form isn't as easy as forced induction. To go back to the first question of "is a intake swap worth it?" It just depends on the person. You will see more low end torque and still pull at the high end. I would expect a few tenths in ET. With the other mods included you should see as much as half a sec quicker. You could sell off your parts and have a total investment of around 750$ you have a good head/cam combo already. The intake system is what is holding it back to its maximum potential.
To give you an idea Ive been talking to a lot of "experts" on my project(stock 302,tfs11r heads,custom cam,etc). The one aspect I did wrong is bought a BBK cai. I should have went with the power pipe. I've been told it should make 335-350rwhp with a tune. I'm looking for a low 12 on Nittos and hoping for a 11 with some bias ply drag tires. I have a milder cam than you and less cubes. You should be at least 360 rwhp and I've seen a lot of 331/347 around 400.